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I got called to work today, but still managed to get some work done on the car. I built a new dash out of 16 gauge aluminum. I'm not sure if I should paint it or leave it bare. I might bead blast it and spray a satin clear so it isn't too reflective. I also took a couple pictures of the recent progress.

Should have lots of grip now.


Driveshaft loop, just in case.


The new dash. I think I should have centered the switches and mounted the speedo a bit lower.


Drivers side of tunnel.


Passenger side of tunnel. It doesn't really show up in the picture, but this panel had to be bowed out to clear the switch for the backup lights.


Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Kristian

Do you have any pictures of how you monuted the top end of your rear shocks?
I have really been struggling with mounting locations for that.

My car is a regular book frame. Here's a couple pictures of my rear shocks, and I also dug out the book to see what the drawings there show. Mine is just like the drawing shows. There's a bracket welded under the plate that the roll bar is welded to.







Hope this helps.
Kristian

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Helps alot.
I did not build my chassis, so I am still figuring some of these things out. My W2 bar is one inch to the outside of yours, which means it lives in the area that your shock lives in. So it looks like angled rear shocks are going to have to be my solution.

Now it all seems to make a little more sense.

I've gotten quite a bit done this weekend already. I relocated my fuse panel while rewiring my dash for easier access to the battery, now I don't need to remove a panel to get at it. With where I moved the fuse panel to, I shortened up the wiring to the dash and eliminated a bunch of wires that weren't needed, as well as one that is needed. I mounted my speed sensor on the top of my driveshaft loop and epoxied a magnet to the driveshaft. I tried beadblsting my aluminum dash, but it looked awful, so I did a brushed finish and then sprayed it with a matte clear. I'm still not sure I like it, so I might eventually do a black fabric on it as well as the tunnel cover. I wired up my new digital gauge, and now have a speedo, odo, tach, water temp, and clock. It has another temp input if I want one for the oil and it can also do fuel level, but I didn't put a sender in my tank when I built it. I fired up the engine to make sure everything works an it does. I took the back wheels off and checked the speedo too, goosed it a bit in 5th and saw 174km/h, so mounting the pickup on my driveshaft is OK. I had read about others having issues with the frequency being too high and not reading because of the gear reduction. I got the engine up to temp to check the temp gauge, and the fan didn't come on. That's where the wire trimming mentioned earlier comes in. Apparently I trimmed back and didn't connect the wire that supplies 12v to the fan relay, but there was a 12v wire right beside it in the bundle that wasn't being used, so that was an easy fix. I also replaced the master cylinders for the brakes and clutch that looked like they were original from 1982 and starting to leak. I hate bleeding brakes, but it's done now. I still have to finish fiberglassing my modified scuttle and build seat cushions for the passenger, but I'm getting closer to putting it on the road.



Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Nice progress, Kristian. When you say "get it back on the road" are you planning to drive it on the street too? Or, is it still going to be just for autocrossing?

I'll be looking forward to some new videos this season, especially with sound.

Cheers,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I'm going to drive it on the street too. Which is making me reconsider my tire sizes. I was going to get another set of Toyo R888's for street use, but I think I might go with some that are 205/60r13 this time instead of 225/45r13. That will give me an extra inch of ground clearance, which will be handy where I live. The streets are so bad around here that most people think they need a lifted pickup in town. And for some reason there is a bylaw that driveways can only be two cars wide, including entrances to businesses, so sometimes you end up having to drive over a 5" curb because the parking areas are so small. But we're planning on moving this summer, back down to Kamloops, and there are lots of good roads down there. Nice windy ones too. I'm not sure if anyone does autocross there though.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Kristian,

OH MY GOD!!!!!!!! YOU ARE THE MAN! (RacerAl is as well)

That picture of the fuse block....... Loocking at your Loud Pedal..... So simple! I have been trying to figure out how I was going to do mine. I love it!!!!!

Thanks Wax. Everything about these cars can be built pretty simple if that's what you're going for. Man I can't wait to drive it again though. I got the passenger seat crossed off my list today. It was much more successful than building the drivers seat, seeing as I didn't have to go to the hospital in the middle of the job this time. Here's what I did to my thumb when I hit it with a zip disk doing the drivers seat back in 2010. The nail grows in a bit gibbled still and it's really annoying when I'm trying to pick my nose.



Here's a picture of the seats, only took 4.5 years to get them both done. No more old couch cushion for the passenger.


I guess I can't put off the fiberglass work much longer, that's about the last thing I need to do. Right now though, I think I'm going to enjoy a nice whiskey sour while I'm cooking dinner. Happy easter everyone.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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Happy Easter to you too, Kristian!
Did you and your little goober hide Easter eggs? Hope so...

So what's wrong with fiberglassing? Are you using cloth or mat? Epoxy resin or poly? Etc, etc... I've been doing a 2nd round (or 3rd? I dunno any more...) of fiberglassing bodywork, and I kinda enjoy it. I realize that's all personal taste, but I'm wondering if you're using materials that make it unpleasant and we could suggest alternates.

So, what ya doin, Bro???

JD

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

No easter eggs here this year JD, my wife was gone for the last couple weeks with the kids visiting family, so it's just been me and the cats. I'm domesticated enough now that I wasn't sure I'd survive, good thing she's coming home tonight. Good thing too, I'm down to instant coffee. Both the kids had lots of fun with their grandparents though, my parents and hers. For the fiberglassing I'm using cloth and poly resin, both are Bondo brand. I just don't like sanding the stuff. I started on it a bit this winter, but decided it might be better to wait until things warmed up so I could do it outside and not get the dust all over my shop. And I don't like how itchy I get either. I see you're building new fenders to cover the bigger rear tires again, looks good so far.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
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I finally quit procrastinating on the fiberglass for my scuttle today. It was warm enough to work on it outside and I got off work a little earlier today, so, I bought some disposable coveralls and went to town on it with my belt sander to take down some high spots in the fiberglass. Then I put 3 layers of cloth on it before firing up the BBQ to cool some burgers for supper. I used the same cheap polyester resin and used a 4" foam paint roller to wet the surface and make sure the cloth was down nice and smooth. The roller also seems to help cut down on excess resin. There's still a couple low spots that I would have had to sand tright hrough the existing fiberglass to get smooth, so I'll have a little filling to do. I wonder if it's best to sand the fiberglass before using filler or if the rough, unfinished surfaces is better.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
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You guys up there in Canada sure do grill differently, eh?

As far as the sanding goes, I would be a bit concerned about the different rates of sanding between the filler and the resin/glass. I would knock down the high spots before applying the filler. But that is just me.

I used the foam rollers myself on my hardtop. It works a whole lot better than the brush, no?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yep, what Chuck said... I suspect the filler does adhere better to the unsanded surface, but it's hard to level off the soft stuff (filler) and the hard stuff (glass) at the same time. You can always rough up the surface areas you're going to fill with some coarse sand paper before applying the bondo.

It could be another of "it's just me" things, but I haven't been itchy much at all doing fiberglass. Sticky as hell from the resin (neatness ain't my strong suit...) but not itchy. I use "no name" cloth from Thayer Craft in NC and West epoxy resin. I don't know if either would make it less irritating... Curious... YMMV.

The coveralls are a good idea. I've got a whole drawer full of T-shirts known as "The Epoxy Collection" that are now fit only for wearing in the garage at night or possibly at hog round ups and buzzard breedings...

So send us a picture of your fiberglass artwork!!! Your fans await...


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Oops, I blame the touchscreen for the typos. Not that it makes any difference, I can't type anyways. I'll take a picture when I get home from work, but it doesn't look like much yet. Yup, the roller works great. For fiberglass I'm using Bondo polyester resin and cloth. I just looked up their website, and it says to sand with 80 grit then use filler, so I guess that's what I'll do.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
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