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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 8, 2014, 8:29 pm 
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Pete B wrote:
Hey, Kristien, your rear motion ratio is not 1. It is the distance between your shock mounts divided by track width, so something like 40 divided by 56?

I was fooling around with the weight transfer worksheets, and found that a car with a solid axle will transfer enough weight through the rear roll center to the extent that much stiffer front springing is required to balance the car.

So, I think a 450lb spring in front and 2.37HZ is fine, and suggest 250lb for the rear, which should give a frequency of 2.01Hz.

I guesstimated a lot when it came to CG heights and so on, but am estimating that that even though front and rear roll stiffness will be 60/40, the distribution of front and rear weight transfer will be 48/52. I'd be glad to send you the worksheets, of course.


The rear motion ratio being lower than 1 for roll makes sense, but it would still be pretty close to one for a single wheel bump. And it will be 1 if both wheels hit the same bump, which is pretty common around here. I will do some more thinking on it and a bit more measuring though, thanks for bringing it up.
Kristian

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PostPosted: September 9, 2014, 10:23 am 
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You're right about the bump behavior; that had gotten by me. The 225 spring will put you closer to 50/50 weight transfer, so that looks like a good choice. Have fun!

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PostPosted: September 9, 2014, 1:27 pm 
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I measured my rear track and suspension mounts this morning and came up with a motion ratio at the rear of .855, but when considering that the other shock also compresses a bit in a single wheel bump, it added up to 1. I hadn't thought about how much the other shock would move, just that it would. So it seems that only roll stiffness is affected by how far apart the shocks are placed of a solid axle. If one wanted to adjust rear roll stiffness and had the room to move the shock mounts in or out it should work. I did look at some weight transfer calculations on another site, but found myself making a lot of guesses as well. I haven't eve figured out my roll centers, never mind CG. If I still have too much body roll with the stiffer springs, I will add a front sway bar. I emailed Jack at Kinetic last night to confirm my order of springs and rod ends, and got an email this morning that everything is on it's way already. That was quick.
Kristian

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PostPosted: September 28, 2014, 5:59 pm 
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Well it took way too long, but I finally have a vin on my car. It's supposed to be about a two week process when everything goes smoothly, but of course that wasn't the case for me. I originally applied to ICBC in the middle of May for the vin, but because I didn't have enough receipts, it took extra time and I had to sign some paperwork and have it notarized. That added about a month to the wait, then when the vin showed up for the guy to do the inspection, he dragged his feet for another three months. He would tell me to bring it over and then he wouldn't be home, or if he was there, he didn't have the vin with him, and on goes the list of excuses. Well I finally managed to corner him today and he had the vin and paperwork with him, so we stuck it on the car. Now I have to get a weigh scale certificate and go get it registered. I have to bring the car with so they can look at the vin to verify it, but other than that it should be pretty painless. Unfortunately winter is pretty much here, so I won't be insuring it before next summer. That should give me time to make some of the changes I want to do over winter though.
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PostPosted: September 28, 2014, 7:35 pm 
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Congratulations on your vin, sorry to hear it took so long, fortunately I was lucky and mine took about a week from the time I applied.
I know what you say about the notary, I contacted 6 of them and each one said I was looking at two weeks just to get an appointment.
Then I contacted contacted Simpsons in Chilliwack, they had done a number of hot rods, just told me to drop by and that was it.
Also having a local ICBC office helped as I used their inter office mail to speed things up.
I guess some are quick to do and some are not.
I am just glad to hear you made it, spring will be here in no time. :cheers:

Al

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PostPosted: September 28, 2014, 10:55 pm 
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It only took a week to get an appointment with a notary, that was actually the smoothest part of the whole process. I was worried that I would have to convince her, so I had all my paperwork with me that I had sent to ICBC, but she was only interested in watching me sign the ICBC declaration and taking my $30. I asked what the point of it all was, and she said it was purjury if I signed the paperwork and it wasn't true. Like someone would build a car out of stolen parts and then admit it when it came time to sign a piece of paper. I guess the government has to have the appearance of doing something.
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PostPosted: September 29, 2014, 12:07 am 
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Mine was basically the same situation, my brother worked for GM, so he got me my engine at a discount, but the purchase was in his name, not mine.
I had to go to the notary to legally state that it was mine and I didn't steal it from him, cost me $25 to sign.
Just oiling all the gears or greasing the palms I guess depending on your viewpoint.

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PostPosted: October 1, 2014, 1:13 am 
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Well, big day today for me. I needed an official weight for my registration paperwork, so I took my car to the local dump to get it weighed, which is a quick 5 minute drive from my house. I was too lazy to load it on the trailer, so I figured I would just hop in and drive it. Boy was I surprised when I met a police cruiser. I was even more surprised when he just waved at me. Man those red and blues on the front look scary when they are at eye level. I almost got stuck in the mud getting on and off the scales, but for $15 I got a printed record to take with the rest of my paperwork. Then I drove it home and loaded it on my trailer to go get it registered. The lady there had never done a ubilt car before, just trailers, so it took about an hour to get everything straightened out. She had a hard time reading the VIN, so I told her to hop in if she wanted. Her eyes lit up like a kid at Christmas. It didn't help that she wrote down a B in the vin as an R, but we got it figured and my car is now registered! As far as paperwork goes, I can go insure it anytime I want like any other vehicle. On paper the make and year is UBILT, 2014. They have to also put a body style, mine is 2DSPT, which I'm told means 2 door convertible sports car. Good enough for me

Hard to believe this all started when I saw a half page ad in Grassroots Motorsports just over 11 years ago. It took almost a year from deciding that I could do it to actually getting the stuff I had ordered from CMC, then I moved away from my parents place 600 miles away and got to work on it for a week at a time, twice a year, for 3.5 years. Once I got it up here, I didn't waste much time getting it running (temporary wiring just to make the engine run, not even an alternator) and auto crossed it the next summer. Then I got married and had a couple kids, so it got put on hold for a few more years before I got a chance to even try to make it street legal and presentable, but here I am now with a car that I built by myself, the first real project that I've ever finished. Feels pretty good I must say. And I don't think I would have been able to do it without the inspiration and help from members of this forum.

It's still a long way from being really done, if it ever truly can be, so you guys won't be rid of me any time soon. Hopefully this winter isn't stupid busy at work so I have time to get it ready for next summer, it's going to be a fun one. I wonder where the next 11 years will take me. First I have to clean about 100 lbs of mud off the bottom of it from the scales today.

Kristian

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PostPosted: October 1, 2014, 8:55 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Quote:
but here I am now with a car that I built by myself

And there are very, very few people that can make that statement. You are one of them.
Congratulations, Kristian, well done... Very well done!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: October 2, 2014, 12:51 am 
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Congrats Kristian, a milestone for sure. Bet that gives you incentive to work on it this winter and have it ready for cruising in the spring.

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PostPosted: October 2, 2014, 2:49 pm 
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Thanks guys, it definitely feels good to be legal finally. Parts that I ordered have started to show up now. I got the new rod ends from Jack at Kinetic, still waiting on springs though. They are being drop shipped from England, but no hurry, they will be easy to swap out. I got some steering parts from Summit, including a 1.5:1 steering quickener. I meant to order a 2:1, but wasn't paying close enough attention to which one I clicked on. I'll see how it drives and maybe order a 2:1 in the spring. Then I can be like a real race team and have different steering ratios for different tracks. I'm still waiting on some steering u-joints, so that's on hold for a bit anyway.

I bought a Trailtech Vapor to try out, but can't get the tach to play nice with my msd ignition so far. It triggers fine with the tach out wire, but the signal is 3 pulses per revolution and the Vapor only goes to 2. I will have to play with wrapping a plug wire I guess and then see if I can get it to calibrate properly. And if that won't work, it will get used on my street legal dirt bike, which was the kit I had ordered as a just in case (a rare stroke of genius). I looked into getting a Veypour VR3 instead, but got an email this morning saying that they are no longer being sold. Anyone know of any other alternatives for a decent price out there?

I might need to rethink my home made aluminum fuel tank too, I'm seeing a bit of seepage in a couple spots where my welds must be a bit porous. Not sure what to do there, but I think the first attempt will be to slather the welded seams with JB weld or something similar and see if it holds up.

The guy that inspected it didn't like the fact that my tunnel isn't completely sheeted in and you can look past the transmission down to the road. He passed it anyway, but made me promise not to insure it until it was fixed, so I guess I better do that too. I'm hoping to get on a maintenance run for a two week on, two week off shift this winter. If that happens, I should have lots of time to work on it.

Kristian

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PostPosted: October 4, 2014, 7:29 pm 
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congrats again. I was like you and didn't get mine on the road until Oct. Put 3 months insurance on it anyway and drove around in a parka.


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PostPosted: October 5, 2014, 6:44 pm 
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I wimped out and didn't insure mine, just got the registration so that when spring gets here I can just go get a plate for it. I didn't think the wore out Toyo r888's that I have on it would make suitable winter tires. And with as far north as I am, winter will be here any day now. We had about 4" of snow the first week of September that melted about a week later. It was tempting to insure it right away though, but basic insurance is also about $650/year here.
Kristian

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PostPosted: October 5, 2014, 7:09 pm 
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Maybe throw storage insurance on it, costs about 35 bucks or so.
Protects the car from theft/fire etc and also gets the registration into the system and on file for your insurance next year.

Al

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PostPosted: October 6, 2014, 12:28 am 
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I made sure to get all the paperwork squared away, so I have the normal insurance papers for it now. It just says unlicensed in the spot for the plate number. And insurance through icbc would probably be a joke for something like this if anything ever happened to it. I knew a guy that had a motorcycle stolen that was insured for an agreed value of $10000. I think icbc was trying to cut him a cheque for something like $3000, even with the $10000 insured value.

I found another option for a digital dash that I might try, a Koso DB-02R. I found it on ebay for a bit over $200. It will work with my 6 cyl engine, plus has 2 temp gauges instead of 1 and a fuel gauge as well.
http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/koso/sh ... version-4/

I'm going to be visiting my parents in Kamloops this coming long weekend, so I tore apart my steering column. I got some new ujoints and a piece of splined shaft to go with my shiny new quickener, and am going to use my dad's lathe to turn some stubs that will fit into 3/4" seamless tube so I can weld up all new stuff right from the steereing wheel to the rack. I'm going to try to incorporate a collapsing section into my steering column too, right now that part is between the rack and the column, but that won't work so good with a quickener there.

Kristian

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