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PostPosted: October 18, 2014, 1:12 am 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Got back from visiting with family Monday night, but I've been so busy with work that I haven't had a chance work on my car, but tonight I had an hour or so to play. I made some stubs to weld into 3/4" tube to attach my steering ujoints of my dad's lathe.

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They go along nicely with the rest of the parts that have showed up in the last couple of weeks.

Heavier springs, steering quickener, steering ujoints, the stubs that I made from a section of splined steering shaft, rear brake shoes, brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and all new rod ends for the suspension. Looks like an early Christmas for me.

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I wonder how it would be to drive with a joy stick instead of a steering wheel? My daughter doesn't look impressed by it, kept trying to hold the steering wheel up to it.

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The new steering shaft is a left over piece of 3/4" x .065" wall stainless from work. Sometimes the perks of my job are pretty handy. This summer I built a railing around my deck and used a bunch of scrap 1/2" stuff. It was all rescued from the scrap bin over the last couple years. If I would have bought it from the same place we get it from, it would have been close to $4000 worth of tubing.

Image

Now to figure out how to get everything mounted and welded up.

Kristian

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PostPosted: October 18, 2014, 4:43 am 
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[quote="turbo_bird" I haven't eve figured out my roll centers, never mind CG. If I still have too much body roll with the stiffer springs, I will add a front sway bar.
Kristian[/quote]

It may be better if the springs dont help to add a rear antiroll bar ( sorry swaybar :) ) If the rear is the problem and you fit a swaybar to the front when the car pitches it will lift the front inner wheel. It may be better to get the rearend right rather than mess with the front in a bid to compensate. Think of it as a seesaw placed diagonally across the car ,front inner to outside rear. Just thoughts

Bob

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PostPosted: October 18, 2014, 12:52 pm 
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bob wrote:
[quote="turbo_bird" I haven't eve figured out my roll centers, never mind CG. If I still have too much body roll with the stiffer springs, I will add a front sway bar.
Kristian


It may be better if the springs dont help to add a rear antiroll bar ( sorry swaybar :) ) If the rear is the problem and you fit a swaybar to the front when the car pitches it will lift the front inner wheel. It may be better to get the rearend right rather than mess with the front in a bid to compensate. Think of it as a seesaw placed diagonally across the car ,front inner to outside rear. Just thoughts

Bob[/quote]
It would certainly be easier to add a rear bar too. But I think adding roll stiffness to one end of the car reduces grip at that end, and I've had problems keeping the back end behind me with this setup. I am getting smoother at driving it though. At my last couple auto crosses it was pretty neutral handling with either the front or rear sliding first depending on throttle and brake. I had no grip and was spinning the tires in third due to old tires, but it was lots of fun being able to slide it around that nicely. I might end up with anti roll bars at both ends to keep it neutral.
Kristian

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PostPosted: October 18, 2014, 11:21 pm 
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Here's a fun picture from this summer. A guy at work sent it to me after.I took his room mate along for a run. The guy riding shotgun is 6'8" and 350lbs, I'm 6'2" and 280lbs. This should be a good example of who you can cram into a book frame. I definitely didn't have any wheels pin issues on that run, but it did handle a bit different.

I had a bit of time today after doing some yard stuff to get ready for winter, so I mounted my steering quickened and started welding up steering shafts.

I thought i might be able to get away with a single ujoint from the column to the quickened, but I didn't quite get it lined up, so I turned two of the ones I bought into a double. When I was building the splined stub to weld into the tube, I also sliced off the end of the shaft that has the spline for the steering wheel and turned it down so I could weld it into the same tube. All I have left now is to cut the tube from the column to length and weld in a splined stub, the decide if I want to put a third bearing in at the firewall. I have it already, and it shouldn't take long to mount it, so I probably will use it. I still have a 3/4" 36 spline end that is turned down to fit in a 3/4" x.065" tube if if anyone needs one.

I even had help working on my car tonight, and she insisted I take a picture of her with the car.

Kristian

Fixed the pictures, the forum doesn't play nice with my phone, and tonight photobucket wouldn't either. No idea how to get them in the right spots though.


Attachments:
File comment: Welder helper
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 260.26 KiB | Viewed 2395 times ]
File comment: Quickener mounted
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 307.35 KiB | Viewed 2395 times ]
File comment: 6'8", 350lb passenger, 6'2", 280lb driver, book frame
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 147.58 KiB | Viewed 2395 times ]

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Last edited by turbo_bird on October 19, 2014, 12:03 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: October 18, 2014, 11:33 pm 
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Pictures work better, and will remain for posterity, if you load them into the forum itself. Just sayin' (since all I see is code)

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PostPosted: October 19, 2014, 8:22 am 
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Quote:
6'8", 350lb passenger, 6'2", 280lb driver, book frame

Whoa... That's a lot of meat in that wagon... :rofl:

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PostPosted: October 19, 2014, 8:35 pm 
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Got the winter tires on my truck and my wife's car today, so no more trailer for my locost until spring. I used the winter tires from my wife's car when I built the trailer, and the summer ones won't clear the hubs on the axles. After I adjusted the toe on my truck (tires were wearing funny, 1/4" toe in will do that), I had put in a bit of time with my car. I got the last piece of my steering shaft cut to length and welded up. Tightened up all the ujoints and it steers again. Not quite 3 turns lock to lock now, down from 4.5. I'm not sure it will be quick enough, but I will try it as soon as I get a chance to see how it drives. That might not be until spring though. I will definitely have to add the bearing at the firewall, the shaft moves around a fair bit with how far from the lower column bearing I have the ujoint.

I had a good apprentice making sure I was doing a good job too. Must be a supervisor judging by how shiny the hard hat is.

Kristian


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File comment: Shiny hard hat, he must be a supervisor.
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File comment: 2 1/2 years old and loves helping work on stuff.
image.jpg
image.jpg [ 288.59 KiB | Viewed 2350 times ]

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PostPosted: November 2, 2014, 5:33 pm 
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Let the changes begin. I've never been real happy with the scuttle from cmc, so today I hacked it up a bit. I built a new dash and steering column support from 1/2" conduit so the dash and scuttle can be sepperated for easier access to the master cylinders and wiring. I used some leftover aluminum from doing the body panels to fill in the gap between the scuttle and the new dash hoop and now have to decide if I am going to fibreglass in the aluminum as part of the new scuttle or just use it to lay some glass on and remove it after. I think I'm leaning toward the second option to keep it from possibly seperating after the fact, as well as probably keeping it a bit lighter. The new dash will be moved back a bit and more vertical so that I can reach the switches a little easier when harnessed in. I was thinking of making a completely new scuttle from aluminum sheet, but then I would lose the little lip in the one I have that I was planning on mounting a wind deflector to.

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Kristian

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PostPosted: January 6, 2015, 10:23 pm 
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Got my new wheels today from Marsh Racing, that I ordered way back in August. Once I finish messing around with fiberglass I will get around to seeing if I got the backspacing right or not. I'm not sure if the fronts will fit as is or if I might need some 1/2" spacers. I was going to get different offsets and widths front and rear, but one of the excuses I had been given for the long wait was that they were waiting on parts for the 8" wide fronts I originally wanted. I figured if I was going 10" wide for the fronts, I might as well keep them the same offset as the rears too. The only clearance worry I have at the front is if my slicks will clear the fender supports, not that I really need front fenders for autocross though. In other news, I have been slowly progressing on my revamped fiberglass scuttle, winter is really busy for me at work. My longest continuous stretch at work so far is 6 or 7 weeks, 12 hours a day, every day of the week. Hopefully this winter doesn't end up like that. I figured I better add some pictures, seeing how I'm bragging about new wheels and all, so here we go. I tried uploading them to the forum, but still can't make that happen. It always says the file is invalid.

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Kristian

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PostPosted: January 7, 2015, 10:37 am 
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Are you doing some kind of aero thing with the scuttle?

Cheers,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2015, 1:56 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Are you doing some kind of aero thing with the scuttle?

Cheers,

Lonnie

Not really, I mostly just wanted to move the dash back enough that I can reach the important stuff with my short arms when I have the 5 point harnes done up. I do want to keep the molded lip in the scuttle for mounting a small wind deflecter on though.
Kristian

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PostPosted: January 8, 2015, 7:59 am 
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Nice wheels!!!
If you do wind up adding spacers, be sure you got enough length on the wheel studs so that the lugs are fully threaded. You might find that you need longer studs. Might not...
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: January 8, 2015, 11:51 am 
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Right, got it. For some reason, I didn't see the previous postings and photos, which show everything clearly. It must be early-onset Alzheimer's. :lol:

It's great that you're getting your son involved with the car.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 7, 2015, 4:47 pm 
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So I've decided I hate working with fiberglass. I'm going to leave that for when it's warm enough to work outside and I have a weekend to spend on it, that way I will get really itchy once for lots of progress instead of every couple days for not much progress. I've got lots of other stuff to work on before it's ready for spring anyway. I wonder what kind of body filler I should use on my fiberglass scuttle. I'm thinking it will be too flexible for good old fashioned bon do to not crack. Would micro balloons work to fill the low spots and after I get the contour I want I can put another couple layers of cloth over the top? Or am I stuck layering with cloth and then sanding the high spots down?
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 28, 2015, 6:26 pm 
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I'm finally getting some more work done on the car. I got my new springs from Jack installed, new rod ends in the rear suspension (also from Jack), and aligned the front end the same on both sides. It was pretty close, considering that when I originally put it together I just eyeballed everything with a protracter from the garage floor. I left the left front alone and adjusted the right side to match. This time I leveled the front of the car with blocks and used an angle finder on the hubs. I set camber to -2.5 at full droop, which gets to -5 at bump (3" wheel travel before hitting the bumpstop). I checked the the caster by measuring the camber at full lock each direction and calculated it at -11. Here's the equation I used.
Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)]

Which I found here.
http://www.quadesl.com/miata_alignment.html
That's basically the max caster I can go to without the springs hitting the inside of my upper a-arms. At full lock the inside wheel gets to +7 and outside wheel goes to -7.5. I think I could probably dial back the caster a touch, but it definitely centers nicely the way it is. I still need to set the toe too.
I also put my slicks and new wheels on. The rears are as close a fit as I could want, but I had to take the fenders off the front because the new wheels don't clear the support brackets. I could get some 1.5" wheel spacers, but then I would end up with a massive scrub radius. Not the end of the world, I won't be driving it on the street with slicks anyway. I've also made new sides for the tunnel so the passenger side is fully enclosed and the driver side is mostly. I'm going to leave the front part of the driver side tunnel open because it gives me a bit more room for my feet, and it would be a royal pain to make a panel that would clear the clutch slave and linkage setup I made. The transmission doesn't look too bad on that side anyway, and blocks the view of the road pretty good. It feels good to be making real progress on it again, it's kind of hard with two little kids around to "help".
Kristian

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