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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 2, 2009, 10:10 pm 
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I think the engine angle also helped with the RHD footbox. In a LHD car, it might not be necessary.
Very interesting car, interesting application of a stressed engine block.
Makes me really want to find an aluminum block slant ...


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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 7:41 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Using the block as a stressed member affects bearing tolerances among other things. It is a bad idea unless it was designed to be a stressed member.


I was being general. This installation looks to be no more than a mid plate with solid engine mounts; typical of dragsters and tough engine swaps ( I used plates to put a 4.1L buick v6 in a chevette long ago). An engine used as stressed member is transferring suspension loads from one end to the other; typically, the engine would hold the front and rear suspension subframes together.

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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 15, 2009, 8:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 9:43 am 
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Yeah I'm not doing anything that extreme, I just want to tie the engine in to the front of the frame to keep the front suspension from twisting. The engine is already very well supported. Like in the article about the Valiant lotus, the engine is just to help with torsional stiffness.

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PostPosted: December 14, 2009, 8:59 pm 
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So I've been busy with other things lately, but I had a bit of time this weekend. I did more playing than actual work on the car, but I have to remember where I left off somehow. I threw a couple pieces of bodywork on after work today for a little inspiration. Here's a couple pics of it not looking so naked. Pics were taken inside because its -40 outside.

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Kristian

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PostPosted: January 20, 2010, 10:12 pm 
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So I've been talking to people about inspections and trying to find a shop willing to work with me. Pretty sure I found the shop I will use. Almost everyone wants a structural done, even though it's only required if the vehicle was written off. So I had the guy that does structural integrity inspection come look at it when he was in town on Saturday, and he said he would pass it when the time comes. I also managed to talk to the head inspector for northern BC and he told me that I can get it legally inspected and passed without a windshield as long as the windshield is not part of the structure. Yay! He even called me on a sunday to talk to me about it. So now it will be full speed ahead as soon as I have some time to work on it.
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PostPosted: January 24, 2010, 11:33 pm 
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I got a good start on a fuel tank today. After looking at lots of racing cells and not finding one I like, I have decided to build my own tank. I picked up a sheet of .065 aluminum on Friday, but had to work yesterday. I would have got to try welding it today if I had a sheet metal brake, instead I was clamping it to my workbench and using a hammer and blaock of wood to make the bends. Doing it all by hand sure is slow, not to mention it would look nicer if I had a brake. It is 24" wide and will be about 33 litres (8.7 gallons) Here's where I got to today.
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Paper mockup next to start of tank.

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Sitting in the chassis.

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PostPosted: January 30, 2010, 10:12 pm 
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Some more work on my fuel tank today. I ran out of wire with 2 inches of bead left to finish the tank. So I pressured it up with a regulator and air line anyway to see how bad it leaks and found about 14 pinholes. Not too bad for not knowing how to weld aluminum and not having the right gear. I am using a little Lincoln 180 amp mig welder, as long as I keep the hose perfectly straight it feeds OK.

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Baffle to force all fuel sloshing from side to side through the sump. I believe it was SkinnyG that suggested this in another topic.

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Sump from the outside. Fitting to keep from warping the pickup point.

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Swagelok fitting for fuel line sits just behind and below panhard bar.

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This is some of the prettier welding on the tank. My aluminum fab skills leave a lot to be desired, but at least it won't leak when I'm done.

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I mocked up some lights and a fender to get an idea of the look. The lights are just 4.5" rubber tractor lights, not sure if I'll be able to find any lights this size that are high/low beam though.

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PostPosted: January 30, 2010, 11:12 pm 
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It's nice to see you put some new tires on there. :lol:

You have a picture of the rims?

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PostPosted: January 30, 2010, 11:33 pm 
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They're the same ones I had before. They were just stashed in the corner of my shop when you were down.
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13x7 stck car wheels, 12 pounds each
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PostPosted: February 4, 2010, 3:38 pm 
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So I'm sitting here looking up some info on Hyundai Stellars (my transmission and driveshaft is from an 86), and I discovered that they are pretty much a Cortina with a Mitsubishi drivetrain. So the transmission I have is a Mitsubishi KM119. It looks like in 87, the Stellar came with the same 5 speed that I have and was also available with a 4G63 engine. Maybe not insanely exciting for me, other than it seems to be a pretty decent trans, but might be a solution for someone going with the Mitsubishi engine. I also found the gear ratios of the transmission online, they seem pretty good for an economy car.

1st = 3.215:1
2nd = 2.0:1
3rd = 1.316:1
4th = 1:1
5th = 0.833:1

So some quick math with a 3.73:1 axle ratio and gives me a theoretical top speed of 117 mph at 6000 rpm. That should be plenty, given that I figured 100mph would be plenty fast.

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PostPosted: February 14, 2010, 3:46 pm 
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So I have my fuel tank done and installed, man am I glad thats over. Welding aluminum without a tig sucks. I found that preheating the aluminum with a MAP gas torch helped a lot when starting a bead and fixing pinholes. All in all I think it turned out ok. I put almost 30 litres in it last night and its not leaking. It should hold about 32 or 33 litres I think, I just didn't have enough in my shop to fill it.
Heres a few pics of it installed.

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The tank is MIG welded 1/16" aluminum sheet with a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum conduit for the filler neck and 1/8" sheet for the sump. I welded in a bung for a Swagelok fitting for the fuel outlet. The rest of the filler neck is a 2" rad hose from Canadian Tire (gotta love it when they let you look at everything in the back to find what works) and a cut down filler neck from a 1948 Mercury pickup. I will probably get a locking gas cap to top it off.
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PostPosted: February 14, 2010, 5:46 pm 
Just a thought - IIRC, rad hose dissolves in gasoline :shock: ...(ask me how I know :roll: ). Depending on the hose classification, you may have to switch to a fuel-proof hose...

Everything else looks great - nice design!!


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PostPosted: February 14, 2010, 7:45 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
Just a thought - IIRC, rad hose dissolves in gasoline :shock: ...(ask me how I know :roll: ). Depending on the hose classification, you may have to switch to a fuel-proof hose...

Everything else looks great - nice design!!


I know the silicone stuff is no good with gas, but I think this stuff is neoprene rubber, same as some fuel lines.

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PostPosted: February 14, 2010, 9:43 pm 
I did try that once, a couple of ears ago, with my K-series pickup, trying to replace a fuel hose to my saddle tank. Apparently, that particular hose is made of pure unobtanium, and even GM Canada couldn't find a part number for it. I tried using a brand new rad hose (looking remarkably like the one you have there), and it worked...for a couple of weeks. Suddenly, I couldn't draw fuel from that saddle tank. I removed the hose, and found that the entire inside had turned to a black gelatinous goo, at least 1/2 way through the thickness of the hose wall. Blobs of the goo had made their way down to the pickup pipe in the tank, and sealed it shut. Had to remove the tank & pickup to clean it all out. I used gasoline to clean it!

I'm just suggesting you might want to try a little bit of it to see if it survives being in a little jar of gasoline before counting on it. If it survives, you're golden! If it doesn't, the test could save you a lot of work & troubles down the road...

:zoom:


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PostPosted: February 15, 2010, 4:48 pm 
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zetec7 wrote:
I did try that once, a couple of ears ago, with my K-series pickup, trying to replace a fuel hose to my saddle tank. Apparently, that particular hose is made of pure unobtanium, and even GM Canada couldn't find a part number for it. I tried using a brand new rad hose (looking remarkably like the one you have there), and it worked...for a couple of weeks. Suddenly, I couldn't draw fuel from that saddle tank. I removed the hose, and found that the entire inside had turned to a black gelatinous goo, at least 1/2 way through the thickness of the hose wall. Blobs of the goo had made their way down to the pickup pipe in the tank, and sealed it shut. Had to remove the tank & pickup to clean it all out. I used gasoline to clean it!

I'm just suggesting you might want to try a little bit of it to see if it survives being in a little jar of gasoline before counting on it. If it survives, you're golden! If it doesn't, the test could save you a lot of work & troubles down the road...

:zoom:

Thanks for the heads up, I will do that.
Kristian

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