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Nice lookin' paint job, Bro! Would-a been purtier in green, but still nice looking!
(I'm hoping you remember a red-vs-green conversation we had a while back.)


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I remember it well.

It's pretty bright, but, like I said, most of it will be covered up.

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Trochu Motor League

Hey Josh
Bright is good, I painted the 3rd 7's frame black and regret it. At my age I can't see sh1te doing work with the frame unless I have a bright light in my hand.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Looking great. Yeah, it looks like painting should go pretty fast. Not much surface area to paint. Looks are deceiving.

FWIW, I had acceptable success spraying into the tight corners and rolling on the rest. I cheated and used store bought spray cans for the corners, cans of paint and a 4" mini roller for the rest. I hate the cleanup part of using a sprayer.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I switched over to Chuck's method after one day of using a brush in the tight spots. I'd just purchased a few of the 1" wide foam brushes with the wooden handle, and they started breaking apart after about 15 minutes. Two spray cans did the remaining 2/3 of the car with ease so that was $18 well spent, makes it a much faster and funner (not actually a word, but I'm using it anyway...) process as well. Now I'm trying to figure out how detailed I want to be, sanding, 2nd coat, clear coat, etc. I'm thinking I'll pay a bit more attention to the roll bar, as it's a focal point, but not sure how much of the rest is going to receive more attention.

As it sits in the garage as of last night:

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Trochu Motor League

Yup... It's red...

As far as 2nd coat, sanding, clearcoat, etc, I'd say the point of painting the chassis is rust proofing and being able to see any cracks when they show rust against the paint color. If you think the chassis needs a 2nd coat to be protected, go for it. I'd say don't spend a lot of time/effort making the chassis pretty. How-some-ever, that roll bar is going to be quite visible. If you're going to make part of the chassis pretty, that's the part to sand, 2nd coat, hand-rub, clearcoat.

All the above is IMHO, of course.

Peace, Love and Paint-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Has anybody on here ever used this clear coat by any chance?

USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat:


It's a two part clear coat that sounds promising, but it's quite expensive at about $30/can (Cdn). I've been reading about the typical $15/can Dupli-Color, Tremclad, VHT, etc. clear coats and it sounds like most of them are prone to yellowing in a year or two. I'd like to clear coat in a few select areas to increase the durability of the Tremclad and it sounds like it doesn't have the best UV and gasoline/oil resistance. I don't mind paying more for the USC if it works, just would rather not to find out in 2 years its no better than Dupli-Color.

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Trochu Motor League

Hey Josh
I agree with what JD said (hoping now that the planets don't collide because of that).

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Perry. I agree and have essentially come to the same conclusion. Thinking I'll clear coat the roll bar, exposed bars in the interior (think there might be three....), around the fuel cap (just in case), and in the engine bay (the way I built it, changing the oil is going to be interesting...).

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Trochu Motor League

American and Canadian public schools have now re-instated "Duck and Cover" drills because of you, Perry...

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Had an interesting few days. Went to try the two part clear coat in a can and was fumbling in the dark as the motion light didn't come one. No biggy says I as a spare for this exact situation is on a shelf in the garage. Open the door, flip the switch and nothing. No lights, radio, overhead door, nothing. Check the sub-panel, all breakers are on, reset them all, nothing. Go into the house, garage breaker is on, reset it anyway, go back to the garage and nada. Well crap, gets dark at 4:00 and it's -15C, yay. All breakers on and no power is a new one for me. Chat with some people, watch a few youtube vidoes, and armed with a multi-meter I start in the house. Breaker off, nothing on both hot wires, breaker on, 123V on both hot wires. With breaker on, head to the garage, nothing on the breakers across the board. One unprotected wire, off by itself in the corner of the box has 123V though. Odd, no tape, no wire nut, nothing, just sticking up all by its lonesome but no long enough to actually connect to anything. I open the junction box below the panel, where the wires some into the garage, and start poking around in there. Nothing loose, none have power, but there is a black wire, feeding up to the panel that's just hanging there, bare. Look a little closer, give it a tug, and the feed wiring in the panel starts moving. So I have power to a bare, unprotected wire that's off in the corner, and the wiring feeding the panel is just hanging loose in the junction box. I'm no electrician, but I usually know when something isn't adding up. My panel wasn't being fed by an unconnected wire just dangling in space. So with my flashlight out, I start poking around in the junction box a little more and crackle/spark show galore, the ol' heart starts beating wildly! No damage to me thankfully. What had happened, is the frost action of the garage going up and down over the last 20 years had wore a hole through the protective casing on the wire, it had arced with the metal conduit, and melted in half. So my feed wire is now cut, terminating about 1/2" into the conduit. Go to the house, turn the breaker off, get pliers, latch on, can't budge that wire. Throw a nut on it as best I can, disconnect said live wire at panel in house, connect live wire in sub-panel, and I'm back in business. Probably should take that wall apart though and see if I can get that wire extended....

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Trochu Motor League

Thought I'd better take my health a little more seriously and bought a 3M half mask and charcoal cylinders for $34.00. Should have done it a long, long time ago. Used it for the 2K clear coat and couldn't smell a thing, thought it didn'tsmall that bad. Took it off to put the cylinders in a ziplock, thought oh, it will just be for 30 seconds, it wouldn't be that bad, I was wrong, it was pretty bad. Amazed at how well a $34.00 half mask worked.

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Trochu Motor League

That wiring situation must have been a little scary. I'm glad you caught it before something serious happened, like a fire.

I can give you an "Amen" on using masks. Probably 2 months after I started building my build table and chassis, I started getting constant coughs. I bought a box of 3M filters for welding/grinding, and it all went away. I always wear them now when wire brushing, sanding or grinding.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Just started throwing parts back on. Knew it was a bad idea to put the seats in at this point, but in they are.

It's nice working on it while it's elevated, but it's going to be a pain to gently bring down to grade if I load it up to much. Maybe I can find the CG and get creative with the engine hoist.

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Trochu Motor League

Progress!

My vote is the engine hoist. Even if you are off a bit in your estimate, a 2nd person can easily balance the load so exact COG is not important. Just make sure that you lifting point on the frame cannot slip or slide as you are lifting the frame. Things can get pretty hairy if that happens. I had that happen last week as I was unloading a 300# HF toolbox from my trailer with the engine hoist. Fortunately, no damage occurred.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766