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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 18, 2016, 5:53 pm 
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The thing is JD, my build limiter is not money, its time. There was nothing wrong with the old pump, just put a new gasket on and its good to go. I just wanted a new one......

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PostPosted: February 18, 2016, 5:55 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
The thing is JD, my build limiter is not money, its time. There was nothing wrong with the old pump, just put a new gasket on and its good to go. I just wanted a new one......
Time for a Krylon overhaul! A good coat of paint and that old pump will be all purty... :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: February 20, 2016, 10:00 am 
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Hey congrats on the first start! I remember my first time, feeling like I was gonna get past 3rd base, until she yelled 'Stop right there!'
Well I almost felt like that anyhow.
Now I'll go back to my garage.
I love copy and paste.

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Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
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PostPosted: February 21, 2016, 9:49 pm 
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Congrats on getting it running. :cheers:


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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 12:40 am 
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Trochu wrote:
Made the cardboard template and then cut the scuttle out. Probably a bit more heavy duty than required (16 ga steel), but I'm going to leave it for now. Looks okay, still have to fine fit it and screw it down.
Any pics of how you approached your scuttle fab? What does the under structure look like? How did you handle the slope angle at the forward edge support? How is it going to be attached? Etc?

In case you haven't guessed, I'm looking for ideas to "borrow" as I have a scuttle fab coming up soon.

Congrats on the first start. That's real progress :cheers:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 2:17 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
Trochu wrote:
Made the cardboard template and then cut the scuttle out. Probably a bit more heavy duty than required (16 ga steel), but I'm going to leave it for now. Looks okay, still have to fine fit it and screw it down.
Any pics of how you approached your scuttle fab? What does the under structure look like? How did you handle the slope angle at the forward edge support? How is it going to be attached? Etc?

In case you haven't guessed, I'm looking for ideas to "borrow" as I have a scuttle fab coming up soon.

Congrats on the first start. That's real progress :cheers:


Hey Tom. If I were to start over, I'd likely be making my scuttle a bit more structural in nature than I did. Oh well....

Wanting it to be easily accessible, the skin, front (dash), and back (firewall) are all removable. I constructed a basic frame, welded "L" tabs to the front/back, and then bolted the tabs to the scuttle frame. You can't see the front, but its the exact same concept.
Image

Its pretty basic and cheap.

For the skin, I just traced out some cardboard, trimmed it to fit, and used a jig saw to cut out the metal piece. I haven't finalized the forward edge support yet but as I went with 16 gauge steel, it will likely be difficult to let it down with a brake. I'll likely proceed with something similar to what Perry did:
Image
Either weld a strip directly below and to the skin if a lip of 16 ga is adequate or to the firewall if I want a "lip" with a bit more thickness.

For attaching the skin, I'm going to use more L tabs and weld them directly the the front/back and then use machine screws to hold the skin on. At first I didn't think I'd like the idea of using visible screws, but if it works for Caterham, it will work for me.

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PostPosted: February 22, 2016, 3:59 pm 
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Trochu,

Thanks, that's very helpful. Accessibility is also one of my key concerns. That's pretty valuable real estate under the scuttle. Nice to be able to get in there to mount and work on things.

Nice job!

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:00 pm 
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I'm having a brain fart. Am I correct in thinking there is no issue with soft mounting the engine and tranny and hard mounting the diff.?

I'd been planning on doing it that way for years and then it comes time to fab and I'm doubting myself.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:27 pm 
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There shouldn't be, unless you have something like a power frame connection like in a miata. If you just have a driveshaft connecting the two with u joints at both ends then no issue at all. The engine and trans will rotate on their long axis a bit, but won't rotate in pitch or yaw a significant amount so your driveshaft alignment won't change.


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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:34 pm 
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Posthumane wrote:
There shouldn't be, unless you have something like a power frame connection like in a miata. If you just have a driveshaft connecting the two with u joints at both ends then no issue at all. The engine and trans will rotate on their long axis a bit, but won't rotate in pitch or yaw a significant amount so your driveshaft alignment won't change.


Thanks. I had no idea how the vibration/movement was going to transfer to the diff with a driveshaft utilizing two u-joints, but I'm tired of making dumb mistakes on this build. Just need a cylinder for the clutch and it should be able to drive, won't be able to stop, but it should go.....

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PostPosted: March 24, 2016, 1:20 am 
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Trochu wrote:
but I'm tired of making dumb mistakes on this build.


Hold the phone here now. Those are discouraging words for people thinking about starting their build.

What you really mean to say was "I enjoy increasing my learning curve", the result is the same. :cheers:

And yes I concur, if you have a traditional drive shaft (u-joints and slip joint yoke), I can't see any issues of a soft mounted power plant and rigid mounted diff, there should be no stress transfer either way. I would do it if I was building that way.

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: April 11, 2016, 11:27 am 
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Dropped my driveshaft off to get new bearings, shaft, and balanced. Its going to cost more than I thought it would at around $225.00, but should last my lifetime. Center to center its 18.75" which gives me about 3/4" of play. Next up is the clutch bearing and master cylinder and theoretically it should drive.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 4:16 pm 
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To go with my last post:
Image

Anyone know if this (Tilton Throwout Bearing 60-6104):

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/t ... /overview/

will fit on a Ford T5 world class? I've googled, asked several parts stores, and don't have an answer yet. I think I'm going to go the throwout bearing route unless I can stick the clutch fork out the passengers side, haven't looked into that yet, but I suspect it will be a no go. I just don't have/don't want to make room, for the slave on the drivers side.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 9:37 pm 
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Quote:
Anyone know if this (Tilton Throwout Bearing 60-6104):
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/t ... /overview/
will fit on a Ford T5 world class? I've googled, asked several parts stores, and don't have an answer yet.
How about calling Tilton and askin' them? http://tiltonracing.com/ There's a phone number and some other contact info on their home page.

I did that same thing with the cam I put in the Slotus. Called Performance Cams, talked to the guy, then bought one from Summit. He even told me Summit was a good place to get their stuff. Tilton will probably be the same.

Worth a try, the worst they can do is call you bad names and hang up. (Chances are, that has already happened to you at least once, so I bet you can take it...) :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: April 13, 2016, 11:21 pm 
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So, you'd suggest I call the manufacturer and get their opinion as opposed to inquiring technical advice from complete strangers, some of who may not even know who Tilton is? :shock: I don't know how that jives with me...

I should give them a call. For some reason it just seems odd to call the manufacturer, not sure why.

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