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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 25, 2010, 10:39 am 
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Joined: October 28, 2008, 1:32 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Beaverton, OR
I finally got my front fender stays on. The fenders might be a little short (they don't go far around the tries. They were my first try beating the out of 0.060 alum on a wooden buck. My friend is working on a car as well and he is thinking about making a bigger buck and trying to make some real cycle fenders to float with the wheels like the "elfin" or whatever that car is called has.

Having lots of fun driving, I do need to figure out a roll bar. I have a grill now as well just not any pictures of it. Expanded metal painted black, I think it turned out pretty good.

Craig


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Last edited by craigv on March 1, 2010, 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: February 25, 2010, 9:27 pm 
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Joined: December 18, 2009, 9:54 am
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Location: Kansas City
Are you using stock or lowering mustang II spindles?

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PostPosted: February 26, 2010, 10:24 am 
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Location: Beaverton, OR
stock


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PostPosted: February 26, 2010, 9:30 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2006, 3:32 pm
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Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Craig,
I like the fenders. Good job. Probably slightly heavier than fiberglass ones, but not enough to make a difference.
Don


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PostPosted: March 4, 2010, 10:56 am 
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Joined: January 13, 2010, 1:04 pm
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Location: New Castle, DE
Hi Guys. Another newbie here. I'm breaking down a 1984 Mustang GT as my donor (unfortunately without the 2.3 turbo, I'll get that later). I'm just in the clean up stage now. Has anyone used the rear off a Mustang using the existing arm brackets? It's got a 4 link set up, 2 outboard at about 3 degrees and 2 inboard at 30 degrees or so. Remember, in Engineering, Plagerism is a wonderful thing.


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PostPosted: March 4, 2010, 9:08 pm 
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
The stock Mustang rear suspension isn't very good for handling because it binds pretty bad with a little body roll. It can be made to work if you use heim joints in the upper links though.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 4, 2010, 10:20 pm 
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Joined: February 20, 2009, 2:27 pm
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Location: Reno, Nv
One problem I see is it will be hard to fit the lower arms in a standard looking locost as they mount were the seat are.

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PostPosted: March 5, 2010, 10:03 am 
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Location: Beaverton, OR
I have not seen anyone do it that way. It's actually not that hard to cut the off and make your own 4 link set up. Heck I have a 93 mustang, I put in a panhard bar, torque arm and took off the upper arms. HUGE improvement in handling control, stock rear set-up on mustang, not so good. Although I hear the newer ones are.


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PostPosted: March 5, 2010, 10:07 am 
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Take a look at the ford aerostar 3 link. It uses parallel trailing arms at the sides, with a short, cast, triangular upper control arm above the driveshaft. They also came with 5 lugs, aluminum driveshafts, and 8.8 diffs.

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PostPosted: March 5, 2010, 12:46 pm 
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Location: New Castle, DE
Thanks to all. Especially since this is my first attempt, I think I'll follow the standard build path.


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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 2:13 pm 
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OK Guys, making progress. I set the drive train on the frame as a sanity check, and of course had to fine tune it a bit. I had a bit of a surprise when I saw the trans end of the driveshaft is 5.50 in dia, and the opening thru the back was only 4.0. How should I set the rear axle, height wise? Also, Keith Tanner's book recommends a 3 degree angle for the driveshaft. That setting should be from a neutral position at the differential? (plumb?)


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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 5:16 pm 
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As far as the 3 deg. angle if I remember correctly this was the best he could get what you want is 0 deg. between the output of the transmission and the differential. So if your transmission output is at say 5 deg. you want your differential to be at 5 deg. This balances out the small speed differences from the U-joints.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 7:30 pm 
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Is that big round collar something that you must have? If not, rip that sucker off there. It's just rubber mounted and probably for vibration dampening.

Tom

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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 8:32 pm 
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MYTF wrote:
As far as the 3 deg. angle if I remember correctly this was the best he could get what you want is 0 deg. between the output of the transmission and the differential. So if your transmission output is at say 5 deg. you want your differential to be at 5 deg. This balances out the small speed differences from the U-joints.



0 degree is theoretical perfect but......can cause u joints to fail over the long term believe it or not. for example 65-6 mustangs as they have aged tend to sack out the rear springs as i'm sure everyone has noticed. this leads to a very shallow ujoint angle particularly in the rear joint. under use the needle bearings never have a rotational force applied to them(due to no included angle in the ujoints operating cycle) so they sit in one spot resulting in dry spots and wear points due to loads being placed in the same spot all the time. now if the plane of both u joints are at 0 degrees and the u joints are offset even a little in some direction this problem goes away. in other words put the trans output 1 inch above or below (or to one side if you want to offset the motor for room and weight balance) the diff input and put them both at 90 degree vertical and no problems.

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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 10:23 pm 
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I was referring to the angle of the transmission/differential not the angle of the drive line your correct there should be an offset in the transmission and differential to allow the u-joints to work some.

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