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PostPosted: June 22, 2018, 9:08 am 
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Let me out. Let me out of here. Get me the hell out of here. What's the matter with you people? I was joking! Don't you know a joke when you hear one? HA-HA-HA-HA. Jesus Christ, get me out of here! Open this goddamn door or I'll kick your rotten heads in! Mommy!


"Put ze mower back!!" and get on with Slotus.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: June 24, 2018, 9:12 pm 
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well i'm glad to here that some parts are moving forward.

i have to ask, how deadly serious are you going to be when building the engine?

is this a "get the parts back and put it together" or a "pay attention to every detail however small?

i truth,there is not much difference in the way it will perform, that is mainly down to the tune BUT and as you can see that's a big but, survival is the name of the game here as you don't want to do this again.

my first question on the rebuild is, it appears that you stroked it, given that the crank is going to be good as is from the machine shop with hopefully radiused oil holes, i wonder about the rods and their bolts.

what make are they and are they "I" beam or "H" beam and do they have bolts and nuts or just bolts?
if they are bolts and nuts, how many times have they been torqued, if more than 3 times then i would recommend replacement, ARP bolts and nuts would be good torqued with their own specific lubricant. (after torqueing, i usually stake the nuts to the bolts with a center punch).

if they are just bolts, do you have a torque setting for them or are you going by bolt stretch?

i could go on for hours about rods

crank bearings is my next question, the mains, install these for a trial fit in the block, and pay attention to the oil holes, do they line up with the holes in the block, if not this should be taken care of, are they proud of the surface, to check this the two halves of the bearing must be installed and the cap tightened to specs. then removed and examined to see how well they fit, if they are proud of the block or cap then warping can result, if they are below the surface then a loss of oil pressure is likely.

this brings us to the caps and the block where the caps attach, to reduce stress risers in this area and to promote cap bolt torque accuracy, you must ensure that the corners of the mating parts are beveled sufficiently, there should be no gap after torqueing and subsequent removal of the bolt otherwise distortion of the cap and localized distortion of the block may occur,
if this is not the case then i would recommend align boring.
again on the caps, look at the top land for the bolts, is this flat and free from burrs and is the edge of the hole beveled or radiussed to clear the radius under the bolt, this radius can be ommited if studs are used but still be free of burrs and flat.
(never file the mating faces of the caps or the block where the caps fit, just the pointy corners)

O.K. now fitting the crank in the block, never allow oil to get under the bearings between the block and bearing or the cap and bearing as this should be a metal to metal contact to promote heat conduction away from the bearing and into the block.
as a lubricant for the bearings, there are several products available, i personally use neat STP as it stays in place if the engine is not fired for some time after assembly.
at this point, if you want to plastigauge the clearances now would be a good time to do it as you may find that you want to move the bearings to alternative locations if possible which may help equalize the clearances a little, remember on mains, the load is on the cap not the block
it is a good thing to have a "lbs.inch" torque wrench available when tightening the mains to measure the force required to turn the crank, as you torque each cap, the crank should be rotated and the torque measured, then if a sudden rise is noted, it would indicate one of three things, the crank is bent, the block is warped or there is a problem with the bearing.
i have on more than one occasion straghtened a bent crank with a hammer, bouncing it on the crank webs to obtain the lowest torque reading, this is an old hotrodders trick but should not be necessary if your machine shop is a good one.
the only thing that should be stressed here is the main cap bolts.
you will find in the stuff i gave you a special socket to turn the crank.

most of the above should check out fine and hopefully nothing needs to be done but its nice to know that it all fits together and the crank turns with the least effort, minimal heat is created and a uniform oil film is present at the bearings at all times.

other personal things i do to a special engine are debur the inside of the block and main caps, paint it with Glyptol to help oil return and on small Fords try and enlarge the oil return drilling from the head at each end of the block, just a small amount.
i also look at the oil pump, to equalize the loads on the gears and ensure that the transition holes from pump body to block are smooth, i also clean the pump and the mating faces are smoothed then i pack it with petrolium jelly not grease to aid on oil pickup at startup, too heavy a lubricant in the pump can cause the drive shaft to break

just some ramblings of an old mechanic here, some do things differently and have their reasons, i know that many an engine has been put together with none of these checks and survived without any problems, i just like to know that i gave it the best chance that i could, then i can sleep at night, or in the afternoon, you can bet Jasper don't do any of this.

there you go JD, just something to think about, especially when money is tight and you just spent a bunch on the motor.

i could say more but i have a habit of re writing "war and peace round two" and the "even newer testament", so i'll shut up now 'cus it's time for my nap

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from this day to the end of the world.
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PostPosted: June 24, 2018, 11:11 pm 
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JD, just ship it to him and let him build it for you.

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PostPosted: June 25, 2018, 6:06 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
JD, just ship it to him and let him build it for you.
It would be a helluva good engine if I did! But I'll probably just wait till he moves to Marianna and take it to him. Saves shipping doncha know...

John- Good morning to you! I'm getting the day started here, makin' coffee, waking up TWWTFM, all that morning stuff. I will re-read your message and respond as best I can a little later today. As we all know, I ain't no Enga-neer, nor do I claim to be a mechanic/engine builder. (As seen by what happened to the previous engine...) I may have to research some of your comments before answering. I can tell you I want to drive the damn thing for the next 8 or 10 years, not work on it. Therefore a good, careful build would be the way to go. (In other words, I don't want to have to do all this shite again!)

Regards-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 17, 2018, 3:49 pm 
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Greetings, Earthlings! I come in peace... Or is that "in pieces"?

So, I got the engine block and cylinder heads back from the machine shop last week. They all got a clean bill of health as well as a good cleaning. But, before we start that chapter, let me digress a bit. (MEEE? Digress? I know y'all are shocked, but try to contain yourselves...)

Some time ago, one of our storms/hurricanes/big winds tore the rooftop vent cover off my trailer. I climbed up onto the top of the trailer as soon as it stopped raining and rigged a bent-up piece of aluminum to cover the hole. Some time later, like Father's Day, TWWTFM gave me a whole new vent to replace the old one. Some time much later still, like last week, I started in on replacing the vent. It didn't go as I'd envisioned it.

I took the inside pieces/parts off, no problem. Then I climbed up on the roof of the trailer (in July, in Florida, not bright am I?) and started in on removing the flange that sat on the roof and held the whole business together. It seems that the good folks that built that trailer put a good coat of some kind of epoxy waterproofing, or seam sealer, or gray-goo-that-turned-into-cement-only-stretchy or something allll around the vent. I tried cutting, sanding, chiseling, nothing made much of a dent in the stuff. After and hour or so, and only ONE of the 27 screws holding the damn thing in visible, I gave up.

Plan B was that I could take both the new vent and the old one apart and just transplant the new bits onto the old flange right where it was sitting on the rooftop. Seemed like a good idea at the time. New vent came apart pretty easy on the work bench. I just drilled out all the spot welds and grabbed the cover, the hinge pieces and the crank mechanism. Then I climbed on the roof and repeated the process with the old one.

The idea was that I could rivet the new pieces onto the old frame/flange thing right where it sat on the roof. Seemed easy enough. And then reality set in. First, the new hinge pieces had been spot welded in different places than the old one. (Different 9-year-old Chinese girl on the assembly line that day...) So the holes didn't line up. I climbed down from the roof and got the old hinge piece and took the new hinge apart so I could use the new cover with the old hinge.

Then I climbed down again to get the box of rivets I'd forgotten and climbed back up. That's when I discovered that the bit I'd used to drill out the spot welds was jussssssst that much too small for the rivets. Yep, climbed down again. Got the drill and the right sized bit and climbed back up. As it turns out, that wasn't a good plan...

Ya know how in those totally dumba$$ MSHA and OSHA safety training things they make you sit through every damned year, they always tell you NOT to hold the part you're working on in your hand? You know the part I'm talking about... Put it in a vice, clamp it to the bench, tie it to the tailgate, yadda, yadda, yadda...
Attachment:
OWW My Thumb July 2018.jpg
If you cover up the upper half of the hole in my thumb as shown in the picture, that other half is pretty close to round and is 3/16 inch diameter. The bit then hit the bone or, as my buddy Prescott said, it got tangled up in the fat and veered off to the outside, taking a bit more of my precious cellular construction with it.

I wrapped a paper towel around it and managed to finish drilling out the holes and riveting things together. Next day, I got inside and attached the new innards. It works just dandy now. My thumb, not so much. :oops:

OK, so maybe those dumba$$ OSHA training classes weren't quite so dumb after all...

This mass of scribbling has gone on much longer than I'd intended, just to talk about drilling a hole in my thumb... I'll let this one sink in a bit and come back after while and talk about the descent into madness... Uhhh, I mean... The beginnings of the motor rebuild.

Thanks for listening, tune in next time...

:cheers:
Peace, Love and More Band-Aids!
JDK


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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 17, 2018, 10:02 pm 
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Who is OSHA and why is she telling you what to do? Your Mother In Law?

If you will just use some of the sealer from the roof of the RV in that hole it will out last you.

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I drive therefore I am

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PostPosted: July 18, 2018, 6:27 pm 
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Gonzoracer wrote:
But, before we start that chapter, let me digress a bit.
A tale told in true Team Slotus fashion--and with the traditional outcome. :lol:

carguy123 wrote:
If you will just use some of the sealer from the roof of the RV in that hole it will out last you.
And maybe a duct tape wrap on your thumb to keep the sealer from leaking out.

Take care, JD. We would miss you if something serious happened, like falling off the RV's roof! :ack:

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 18, 2018, 7:03 pm 
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Ouch. BTDT! Including the paper towel bit. Many of us have I'd bet.

Keep it clean and get well soon. BTW,I still have a scar from my wire wheel incident last Feb (?). I'm sure yours will be something to help you remember for some time to come.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 7:46 am 
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Tom-
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A tale told in true Team Slotus fashion--and with the traditional outcome.
Hmmm... Not sure how to take that... "Team Slotus Fashion" -- Long-winded and off the subject? "Traditional outcome" -- Bandaged and lookin' stupid? Yep, that's us... :rofl:

David-
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Who is OSHA and why is she telling you what to do?
OSHA is a bunch of bureaucrats that have never used a hand tool of any kind that got together and paid themselves to tell everybody else how it had to be done... But I digress... AGAIN... :mrgreen:

Chuck-
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I still have a scar from my wire wheel incident last Feb
So, do the chicks really dig scars??? Now that I've got a new one, perhaps I can find out. So far, all of my racin' buddies have reacted more like "Again? Ya big dummie!"

Tom, I promise not to fall off the roof of the trailer. I'm going to try not to have to go up there again but if I do, I will be careful. For one thing, iffen I fell off it would hurt! :ack:
And the "ripple effect" of seismic energies could trigger earthquakes along the New Madrid fault and possibly another eruption of Mt. St. Helen... We don't want that! Double- :ack:

Gentlemen, I appreciate y'all checking up on me. I have, once again, proven that I shouldn't be allowed to run around un-supervised. Perhaps I should hire Perry or Marcus or maybe you, Chuck, as a full-time nanny. Lousy pay, but the food is good... Think about it... But, really, "tis but a scratch" and I'm already back at it in the shop.

Now, where wuz we? Isn't there an engine block out there somewhere, just begging for a crank and some pistons and stuff like that there? Hmmmm.... Where did I put those rod bolts??? :mrgreen:

Stay tuned, we'll be back after a quick word from our sponsor!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 11:17 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Perhaps I should hire Perry or Marcus or maybe you, Chuck, as a full-time nanny.

Me helping you? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
C'mon JD, you know 2 wrongs don't make a right

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 12:31 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Hmmm... Not sure how to take that... "Team Slotus Fashion"
Definition: A well told tale filled with humor and pathos with an interesting "twist" (pun intended) at the end.
Quote:
Bandaged and lookin' stupid?
I resemble that remark and have the 40+ year-old scars to prove it. Seems the 1/2 hp angle grinder with the coarse wire cup on it I was weilding decided to grab hold of its power cord and start a wild dance. Among other things it turned a chunk of my leg to hamburger. Fortunately I wasn't on the roof of an RV at the time... :ack:

Quote:
Now, where wuz we? Isn't there an engine block out there somewhere, just begging for a crank and some pistons and stuff like that there? Hmmmm.... Where did I put those rod bolts???
JD, can't wait for the stories of the rebuild. :cheers:

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 3:45 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
I can attest to the anger encased inside a 1/2" hammer drill.... and to the absolute need to UNPLUG the sumbotch when changing bits. I was doing just that while burning up far too many bits drilling holes in stainless sheathing for some Air Force doohickey we had been contracted to fabricate, and somehow managed to -just- touch the "ATTACK" button on the drill while wrestling with the chuck key....... several minutes (okay, only a second or two) of being ravaged by what appeared to be an electric wolverine later, I was left staring at three badly mangled but (fortunately) unbroken fingers. I lost the chuck key, it went into the seventh dimension. I asked for a new set of bits and some band-aids and returned to work, a much wiser and even sorer man..... we finished that monstrosity despite the enganeers getting some critical measurements WAAAY off, but all off to the same degree and in the same general direction.

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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 4:08 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
GonzoRacer wrote:
Perhaps I should hire Perry or Marcus or maybe you, Chuck, as a full-time nanny.

Me helping you? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
C'mon JD, you know 2 wrongs don't make a right
Bubba said that two Wrights made an airplane... I was thinking that you could come out here to supervise me. Then we'll get Marcus to supervise you and me. Then Chuck can supervise the lot of us. And Tom can be Superintendent or something...

Don't know if we'd get any work done, but it would be a helluva good time, doncha tink?

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 4:21 pm 
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Nanny? Supervise? That sounds too close to that 4-letter word.....WORK! I don't do that anymore. Sorry JD! You'll have to find someone else to ensure you use proper safety practices.

I'm also a poor one to watch out for others' safety. The only 2 times that I got grinder stuff in my eye, I was using safety goggles. Wearing proper PPE is not a practice that I always follow. I have a healthy aversion to anything that prohibits my vision or dexterity, both of which make an accident more apt to occur. :mrgreen: Lack of PPE is not really a practice that I suggest for others to follow.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 4:57 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Don't know if we'd get any work done, but it would be a helluva good time, doncha tink?

Hey I'm all for it, I just don't know if my body and mind would be able to keep up!

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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