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PostPosted: June 13, 2017, 6:13 pm 
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According to RockAuto, for a '92 Miata :
Attachment:
'92 miata.JPG

From what I can tell,

S (Sense) goes to battery B+. L (lamp) goes to dash lamp, I think. Same as my '90 RX-7 alternator


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PostPosted: June 13, 2017, 7:52 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:


S (Sense) goes to battery B+. L (lamp) goes to dash lamp, I think. Same as my '90 RX-7 alternator



Sense? Your talking to team Slotus here.

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PostPosted: June 13, 2017, 7:57 pm 
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If it's like the Denso alternator I used, you only need one of them hooked up, the battery charge indicator doesn't matter. I'd connect each to 12v and see which one makes the alternator charge.
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PostPosted: June 13, 2017, 9:35 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
rx7locost wrote:


S (Sense) goes to battery B+. L (lamp) goes to dash lamp, I think. Same as my '90 RX-7 alternator



Sense? Your talking to team Slotus here.


Sorry. I forgot. Put the "s" lead thru a fuse to the B+ lead of the battery. Hold the "L" lead in your left hand while touching your right hand to the...... right after saying "watch this!" :shock: JK JD.

The "L" lead actually goes to the :idea: The other side of the :idea: goes to switched B+ (presumably fused).

The 2 fuses are used to prevent fireworks if the wires happen to short to ground.

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PostPosted: June 14, 2017, 5:29 pm 
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JD asked me to post a thanks to Chuck in particular and also others that gave advice on his alternator problem. The forum is punishing him for good deeds again and he can't post today. :-(

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PostPosted: June 15, 2017, 11:53 am 
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Marcus, When JD speaks thru your fingers, the verbiage is more to the point but a lot less colorful. :mrgreen:

JD, I hope you get things fixed soon! We (I) miss your presence. Maybe you have hit the built-in function of the site software that keeps a prolific poster from running up the numbers too much. :rofl:

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PostPosted: June 15, 2017, 4:21 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Maybe you have hit the built-in function of the site software that keeps a prolific poster from running up the numbers too much. :rofl:



Or maybe, just maybe the software has access to his psych profile!!!!!! :oops:

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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 11:31 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
Or maybe, just maybe the software has access to his psych profile!!!!!! :oops:
Actually, my psych profile (especially the one from the right side where the ends of the moustache curl "just so") is quite fetching. I get compliments on it all the time!

Hey Chuck!
Thanks for the kind words... I'm glad somebody misses me! :mrgreen: And, like Marcus said, I appreciate your efforts with the alternator wiring info. The one I have came from Rock Auto and I bet I looked at the same picture, but I missed those "labels" on the case. The alternator I have in hand doesn't have them, by the way, but the wiring has to be the same since it connects to the same harness in the car. Thank you for doing that and sending me the pictures and explanation. (Especially the pictures... )

Kristian-
I have been told (and I read it on the internet, so it's gotta be true) that the circuit that lights up the indicator light is also necessary to "turn on" the voltage regulator and/or the alternator itself. I don't fully understand it all, but the low (1volt?) voltage on the "ground" side of the light feeds into the alternator, which activates the innards of the alternator, which sends 12v back to the "ground" side of the light, which then has no voltage drop and thus turns off the light. Or something like that... Maybe one of the smart kids will 'splain it to both of us, now that I've butchered it all up... :mrgreen:

Peace, Love and "403 Forbidden"-
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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 11:27 pm 
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So JD if someone wanted to use a Ford ecu with PATS do you have an IN on how to work around it?

I mean you seem to know everyone.

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PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 8:37 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
So JD if someone wanted to use a Ford ecu with PATS do you have an IN on how to work around it?

I mean you seem to know everyone.
It's a small world... Not that I'd volunteer to paint it...

I've seen some conversation in here between Lonnie and STranger about that. It's possible that James -our recovering Ford mechanic- may know something about that. He's off at Sebring this weekend, playing with race cars. I'll ask him when he gets back. I thought Kristian had a good idea, about talking with a "remote start" tech.

Other'n that, if you run a jumper from the battery positive to the coil, and then push-start the car... :twisted:

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PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 9:19 am 
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I hashed through bypassing the 2007 Focus PATS in my build log.

The remote start places typically get a second key and tape it to the antenna. It completely defeats the system but its about the only way to install a remote starter on a PATS equipped vehicle otherwise the ECU won't let the starter crank or the fuel pump run.

Have a look starting at post 228: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11437&start=228

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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 5:37 pm 
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I met someone today that you'd probably like to talk to JD.

Image

The guy in the green shirt is Pat Barringer, and he used to work at Mallock back in the day. We talked cars at the car show today for probably an hour, and I showed him a couple pictures of your car from way back on the first page here.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 9:00 pm 
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So that's Wolverine's daddy?

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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 9:13 pm 
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I don't know about the Wolverine connection, but he was a really cool guy to talk to. Hey JD, do you have any current pictures of what the Slotus looks like? I told Pat that I'd track something down and send him. I scrolled back about 50 pages, and the best I found was a rear shot from 2015.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 1:30 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
So, after we had the "Cairo GA Finger BarBeCue" event, we did some work on the rear frame. We'd cut a section out of the rail that was destined to mount the control arms to clear the axle in full droop. So, to add some rigidity back to that area, and to simplify mounting the control arms on down the road, we fab'ed up some shear plates out of some .125 steel we had. They're not finish welded in, nor are the cut-off ends of the rails capped in the picture, but that'll probably happen Tuesday night.
Attachment:
8 30 10 Shear Plates.jpg

I'm still pondering some bracing that runs from the upper corner of the rear rail in-and-downwards to the center X brace of the frame. Probably do that Tuesday, too.

A cooler full of iced down beer is a good way to treat a nasty burn.


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