LocostUSA.com

That is rather harsh.

Well, Come on Down!!! We have a class going on right now, operators are standing by!
Actually, it ain't rocket surgery... Proof is I can do it...

It all started out with one of our forum members, Pook, who did some amazing stuff in his build(s), and I pretty much copy-catted what he did. Looky here, there's a pretty good lesson on how he did it, along with some other info: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=8113 What Pook did, and what I've done for the body on the Slotus, was not the traditional "Mold and Buck" system but instead more of a moldless composite type of construction. The experimental aircraft guys do it all the time. Try "Moldless Composite Construction" on YouTube, there's videos. Oh, and surfboards are made this way too...

First step is to make the part you want out of foam. I use insulation sheets from SLowe's or Home Beepo, cut, bent, sanded and held together with Gorilla glue. Get the shape you want, sand it down smooth, fill in the gaps with spackle, etc. Wet it down with resin (I use a paintbrush) then lay the 6 (or 7 or ounce fiberglass cloth on it and spread it out smoothly with the wet brush. Work out any air bubbles, make sure it's all wet through-and-through, then lay another layer on top and repeat the process. I usually only do two layers at a time. Let it cure overnight, add layers as needed.

Then, it's just a matter of doing body work, like any other car body repair. Sand it down smooth (block sand, long-board sand, or use a jitterbug) and then fill any low spots. At that point, I usually lay up a couple of layers of this silky 3-ounce cloth I bought for that purpose. I let that cure, then do a final sanding (and filling, if needed), work my way down to about a 1500 grit wet-sand and it's ready for paint.

Kinda labor intensive, but you get the exact shape custom made part you wanted. Surprisingly strong, too. Pook said at one point that he could stand on one set of sidepods he made. I tried sitting on the rear deck of the Slotus, and it didn't break, so that stuff must be stout indeed!

Any-hoo, like a lot of things, it's mostly a matter of just doing it, screwing up, starting over, until you get it right. Go for it, Bro, that's all there is to it!

Oh, and TWWTFM stands for "The White Woman That Feeds Me." I'll pass along your translation, I'm sure she'll like it better than mine...


JD "Racist/Chauvinist Pig" Kemp

And don't talk sh*t about my breakfast while you're eatin' somebody's poodle!!! (And usin' two knittin' needles to do it!)

*Carolina Treet is my favorite BBQ sauce. http://www.carolinatreet.com/
Don't start nothin... Don't say nothin...
Don't give a damn what they do in Texas...
JDK

So you don't want to better yourself in your life? Oh wait, you're building your own car that should have answered my question.

Yep, our #1 rule was "don't diagnose a handling problem on old rubber".

What do you use for rear tire pressure? [snip]I was afraid I wouldn't be able to work them up to temp. What happened was every time I tried to go a little faster, I spun. [snip]noticed the center of the tire was warm and the outside edge cold. So every time I cornered I lost my traction. The back end came out real easy, and it wasn't really those 106 raging ponies...

I'm going to guess you should be all the way down to maybe 15 lbs.? I think I've gone down to 12 on my fronts a couple of times.

Yep, our #1 rule was "don't diagnose a handling problem on old rubber". You exaggerated the effect by mixing old and new. We also found (after much testing) that when the ambient temp was less than 65*, lower the (cold tire) pressure by 2 psi.

JD, post some outside video of you runs and we'll try to see what it's doing, old tyres or not, snap oversteer is a deeper issue.