LocostUSA.com

I am having a problem sorting out a sufficient R tube alteration. Even a Y will probably be an issue once headers get on.

Suggestions?

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.

I struggled with this one too. Once you move the engine to the passenger side, things get tight, fast. Trying to get the "R" tube from the front tubes to where it belongs is near impossible without major clearance issues. After perusing a boatload of pictures and designs of similar space frames, I realized that while front to back is best, it isn't an absolute. Like so many other aspects of these builds. Factory Five has theirs like the picture, and they have one wicked handling Hot Rod.

_________________
Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Have you seen their Hot Rod Truck? They just unveiled it the other day at SEMA!

_________________
Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

That truck is SWEET, and they are offering the Hot Rod bodies in Steel now!

_________________
Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Found one of the examples I had seen.

_________________
Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

The factory 5 examples look to have a slight downward angle. If I did a short Y that meets halfway down "J2" and on the "Q" tube where the "H" tubes meet it, and then an angled piece down to the motor mount from either the joint of the Y or from the inner "H-Q" joint would that probably be sufficient? Or double up my "J2" (and J1) below to provide that slight downward angle?

I don't mind slight extra weight here or there as I am using 1" 16 gauge square with a ford 302.... most seem to go with larger tubing when doing a V8.

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.

They do angle down, but only because the rest of the forward chassis angles down. Ours are flat, so the "R" tube would be also. This is just an illustration of how their "R" tube is shorter, and located further back from the front of the chassis, while still giving some torsional rigidity.

_________________
Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

My frame was a bit wider, I just made a jog in the tubing.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Some earlier Lotus clones didn't have these added braces. I think even The Book had only one. When I ran into the issue, I figured anything was better than nothing. For better or worse, this was my solution. BTW, It appears that the pass side could have been moved much further forward. Once the intake was in place, that seemingly clear space was filled. Plus it connected with the joint of the adaptation to clear the header. It now holds the assigned VIN tag.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

oh man I love that rotary engine... was my original plan, so compact!

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.

I was lucky and discovered my R-tube clearance problem when fitting the engine into my wood mock-up frame. I just cut the tube at the firewall and moved it outboard.

I never did put an r tube on my frame, seems fine so far even if it isn't ideal. I should probably add at least one of them someday. I have my engine mounted solidly and had considered using it as a stressed member. I built a couple plates that can bolt to the front of the cylinder heads and was going to connect those to the front shock mounts, then an x in the middle. Maybe next time I have the engine out I'll get to it.
Kristian

_________________
V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

I cheated when it came to the "R" tube placement.
Bolts into the fire wall cross tube.
Makes for easy engine and battery removal.
Dave W

Sold my 1968 Plymouth and am able to look at my locost again. Last week I decided to put a floor on. It always feels good to do something to this car again.

I'm doing a 16 gauge one peice floor welded in.

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

1999 Dajiban build
Autcross car currently 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.

Nice to see you back. Your chassis looks to be in good shape and without rust.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886