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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 3, 2018, 10:57 am 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Langdon, AB Canada
Lonnie-S wrote:
Nice to see you back. Your chassis looks to be in good shape and without rust.

Cheers,


Yeah it is a dry climate here... I haven't done a thing to protect it yet and it has been in the garage for years with no concern. My garage is also not used for daily drivers so that probably helps

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


Last edited by NCLBNY on October 15, 2018, 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 4, 2018, 7:38 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Hey Ben! Good to see you back at it. Keep us posted on progress and good luck!
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 11, 2018, 5:06 pm 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
So I weighed the frame and floor. I'm at 145lbs with 63lbs atthe front axle and 82 lbs at the back.

Still more to add so not sure what it means yet but some good info to still have.

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: July 11, 2018, 5:19 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Low chassis weight is a big deal for the I4 guys and racers, but for those of us with larger engines and a street car, I doubt it will be meaningful.

I did a 3D design of the Haynes exactly as in the book. Then I did my own design with heavier materials and further enhancements like the Aussie Mods and some stuff from other designers and research. That added 90 pounds total. But, my build is going to be 3,000 pounds lighter than my donor, vehicle, which I drove for a year. Am I worried? Well, I'm worried about wheel spin because my car will be so light. :roll:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 7, 2018, 9:55 am 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
So I found I have been struggling to move forward because I don't have all parts, I have approached this build with the intent of picking up peices as I need them... This was a mistake that I have now fixed. I grabbed a blown up RX8 for just $900 CAD(so like $5 USD), that came with 2 sets of wheels and brand new brake rotors and pads (not even installed yet). After selling the extras off I feel like it will be a free donor. One source of donor parts should really help my project.

This donor has me seriously considering re doing my back end to incorporate the RX8 rear subframe and IRS. With a steep 4.44 rear gear ratio I'm a little concerned how high the V8 will be reving at cruising speed. I've looked at calculators and I think I'll be just short of 3000rpm at 100km/h.

With the V8 in only a plus 2 frame using 1" square, I am not really concerned about the weight penalty, if anything I am thinking it could help fix the nose heavy situation I was going to have. I am looking for opinions on this change, I know everyone has one so let's hear it.

Yes if you read my signature this means I now have 2 RX8's with blown engines. My 2009 R3 that has an unknown future, and this new to me 2004 that has seen it's last day.

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: August 7, 2018, 2:42 pm 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
Wow... Started looking at my donor RX8 with the "seized engine" decided to diagnose it before tearing to much apart. Well the Rotary God's are shining on this one because I got it running.... Well, no engine light or anything. Smooth idle, and it drives... Drives decent at that. Damn locost keeps getting delayed even when I buy a car for it as parts, the car decides to be just fine.

What to do?

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: August 7, 2018, 4:50 pm 
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I don't think you'll like that RX-8 diff ratio with a V-8. Me? I would change paths and do a rotary powered Locost (gee, I wonder why I'd say that?). I can pretty much guarantee that if you like RX's you'll love one in a Locost. Either that or sell off the RX in bits, or sell it as a running car (now) before you lose favor with the Rotary Gods. Only you can decide which path to take. :cheers:

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
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PostPosted: August 7, 2018, 6:16 pm 
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Build it. Take a look at Daed's build. If you don't like 4.44, install an rx7 3.90 or upgrade using a kit for rx8s to fit the ford 8.8 or make your own kit.

Imho, 3.27 would be about right.

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PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 4:31 pm 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
I have sold all my V8 stuff. Going back to my roots. Rotary Locost is my answer. Disassembly is already on it's way.


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IMG_20180918_140658_743.jpg
IMG_20180918_140658_743.jpg [ 736.33 KiB | Viewed 493 times ]

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.
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PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 4:49 pm 
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Are you salvaging your (former) V8 chassis or starting a new one?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 5:17 pm 
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
Using the old one. It will work just fine with only minor changes.

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Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.


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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 10:49 am 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
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Location: Langdon, AB Canada
So it is almost stripped completely. This was a couple weeks back but I did make sure to take the RX8 ultra light for a quick spin as a Locost preview. Wow is this thing fun, the rotary was a good choice.

I do want to figure out how to incorporate using a PPF in my design as the RX8 did. The wheelbase is too long (106.4inch) so using the factory one is not an option, though I do like that carbon fiber drive shaft it also will have to be sacrificed for how small the Locost is.


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IMG_20180927_165742_805.jpg
IMG_20180927_165742_805.jpg [ 155.8 KiB | Viewed 387 times ]

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.
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PostPosted: October 31, 2018, 4:15 pm 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Langdon, AB Canada
RX8 part placement begins. The car is completely cut up and stripped. The rear subframe actually looks like it will fit decently.


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IMG_20181031_141239_547.jpg [ 658.98 KiB | Viewed 265 times ]

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.
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PostPosted: November 5, 2018, 3:00 pm 
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Joined: January 16, 2009, 2:17 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Langdon, AB Canada
I am trying to size up if I can use the front subframe as well for the Locost. I am thinking it might look "chunky" with parts of the subframe sticking out of the body. I don't like the wide nose cars so altering that is a no go for me.

The idea of replacement parts being bought at a store is nice, as is the geometry with the steering rack and all being sorted, but is it worth the weight, and the style? I would still need new engine mounts as the RX8 subframe would have the engine way to far forward.

Thoughts?


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PSX_20181105_115138.jpg [ 1.45 MiB | Viewed 148 times ]

_________________
Convincing yourself you can do it is one thing, convincing your wife it is a good idea is another. Glad I have a great wife!

2013 Ram 1500 daily driver
Autcross car currently blown up 2009 Mazda RX8 R3.... Engine swap maybe?

Build is a plus 4" width, 13B Renesis. Wish me luck.
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PostPosted: November 5, 2018, 7:33 pm 
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You have an excellent opportunity to save a lot of time and effort by building a jig transfer the lcap, ucap, and rack mounts to your frame.


Cut short pieces of pipe or thick walled tube with the same id and length as your control arm inner sleeves.
On level concrete, prop the subframe to normal ride height for the rx8.
Lay two 2x2 rails below the left and right lcaps that are as long as the left and right ucaps are far apart.
Weld vertical rhs between the 2x2 and the sleeves bolted into the lcaps with the original bolts.
Do the same for the ucaps.

On each side, weld a tube across the top of the 2x2s that extends forward beyond the subframe and aligns with the rack bracket on the subframe.
Bolt a 1/8 plate to the subframe rack mount that extends from the top of the mount to overhang the tube below.
Cut another plate to fit the overhang, and drill through them both so you have a removable plate, then add a tube to reach the bottom plate.
The point of this is to be able to remove the jig from the subframe.

Now cut the middle of the 2x2s out so you can set the track width, putting the lcaps near the locost lower frame tubes to make brackets.
C clamp tubing to the 2x2s to keep them squared up and the attachments aligned from side to side.
Bring the locost frame out to the ucap points. Narrow the rack as necessary to align with the brackets.

I can draw the basic design in mspaint if you'd like.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


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