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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 26, 2017, 12:41 am 
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C10CoryM wrote:
It has a hardpoint when coming off idle (jumps from 0-20% at times) which makes it impossible to get the finesse required to autoX well.


Does this only happen when you're coming off of a completely closed throttle? It could be the plate binding on the inside of the housing. I've had this happen in a couple of swapped cars. The easiest solution is to adjust the throttle stop so that the plate is baaaaarely open. This way there's almost no increase in airflow, but the throttle return spring isn't able to squeeze the plate against the throttle bore and bind it up.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2017, 10:08 pm 
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Yeah, I think it's only off a closed throttle. The TB is unmodified and is spotless. I suppose it could be a slightly bent throttle shaft that only shows up when the TB gets slammed shut under load. It seems to go away when I push differently on the pedal though so I'll start with a pedal remake. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try your suggestion. Thanks.

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PostPosted: October 29, 2017, 11:20 am 
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Good video(s). It sure looked like fun. I was a little dizzy at the end, however [SMILE].

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: October 29, 2017, 12:24 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Good video(s). It sure looked like fun. I was a little dizzy at the end, however [SMILE].

Cheers,


Definitely fun. Getting used to lots of new things with this car; including regularly spinning.

Lonnie, I happened to notice your throttle pedal design: You may want to reconsider the pivot location unless you are planning on pushing downwards on it. I am 90% sure my issue is from having my pivot too far forward on the car. Instead of rotating on the pivot I am trying to crush the pedal into it causing hard resistance until it rotates a little. Yours seems even worse in that regard. I never put any real thought into throttle pedal other than I wanted a decent amount of travel. I guess it really is just a spring/linkage where you want even or increasing rate for good control. I currently have anti-dive or similar built into my pedal :lol:

Cheers.

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PostPosted: October 30, 2017, 12:34 pm 
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I'll take a look at that issue, Cory. Pretty soon, I'll have the chassis back up on the build table and I'll be able to actually sit in it. That will be an excellent time to evaluate things - when my body and legs are in the intended driving position. I've left the actual accelerator pedal plate mechanism off my design pending that final fitting. My reasoning was that I can make some geometry correction there if minor adjustments are all that's required.

If that fails, then the whole thing unbolts from the chassis, so I can fashion a new design, if necessary. Thanks for taking a look at it. I appreciate the input.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 8, 2018, 11:15 pm 
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Update. My "Winter" to do list stretched long into July but the car is finally racing and on the road again. Now has rear disc brakes which is what took the most time. 2015 Miata pads/calipers, 2012 Hyundai Accent rotors and a whole lot of messing around and they are sorted. I also relocated my front control-arm to tension-strut brackets so the tension-struts shouldn't bend anymore. The binding throttle was fixed by removing a section of the pedal which made it rotate on the pivot easier. At autoX the only time I noted throttle pedal was when I dabbed it a "little" too hard so I think it's sorted.

Picture from the event. Friend is driving, I'm looking bored in the passenger seat. I may have to make a prettier nose-cone for autoX..... the cone-smashing nose is so ugly I'm embarrassed to share pictures. Also ignore the plumber's strap holding the muffler in place; true to form the strap I had broke right before the event. And the fact that my visor is open..... didn't realize that until someone posted a pic.


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PostPosted: August 9, 2018, 7:13 am 
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the cone-smashing nose is so ugly I'm embarrassed to share pictures. Also ignore the plumber's strap holding the muffler in place
One of my racin' buddies says, "They don't give points for pretty." Another says, "A good race car is supposed to be fast, loud and ugly." The nose protects the radiator so you can race. That strap holds up the muffler so you can race. They both look good to me! :mrgreen:

Looks like a lot of fun is being had. Good on ya!
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
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PostPosted: August 9, 2018, 7:47 pm 
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Any videos of your Auto-X runs, Cory?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 13, 2018, 9:50 pm 
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Sorry Lonnie. I thought I replied. Pretty sure I'd typed a response but must not have gone through.

Should have video of this upcoming weekend's event. Have a new camera ordered, but I don't expect it in time so I'll have to use the old one and hope no one bumps it this time.......

Cheers.

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PostPosted: August 13, 2018, 10:27 pm 
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OK, Cory, we'll hope for the best.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: August 19, 2018, 1:37 pm 
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So my new camera did show up in time. I did a late night, temporary install the night before autoX and all was well. Then at the last minute decided the SD card was too small and swapped the one from the Yaris' dashcam. The thing I failed to consider is the new camera was unable to overwrite the other files and was full. So I didn't get any footage which is disappointing. This would have been a good event to film. It was an Enduro event which has morning practice runs as per normal, then in the afternoon you get one shot at the same course, but you lap it three times. My goal, and it may be lofty, is to consistently be faster than production based cars in raw time. Without running Hoosiers (which I won't) it may not be possible but it's what I'm trying for. This event I had a DB Swift (open wheel car), full prepped Miata, and an unknown RX8 faster than me in raw. I think if the car was on fresh rubber and I had more seat time I could have gotten all but the Swift. Car setup is getting closer, and I'm getting better at driving it. I'm not sure there is much more chassis tuning to be done until I get some fresh rubber on. Old tires are not responding as they should to changes.

Cheers.

Funny note: I won a raffle prize at the event..... a new dashcam :lol:

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PostPosted: August 19, 2018, 2:55 pm 
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I won a raffle prize at the event..... a new dashcam
Mount one in the nose, down low to the pavement, It's a hoot to watch, especially if you spin! :mrgreen:

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Without running Hoosiers (which I won't)
I won't argue furr 'em or aginn 'em, but I'm curious... Why not?

Interesting format you describe... Are the morning runs timed at all, so you can tell if you're improving? And then, are all three afternoon laps done back-to-back without stopping? Tires would get good and hot (or too hot) in a three lap run. Sounds like fun.

:cheers:
JD

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PostPosted: August 19, 2018, 3:48 pm 
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I suppose maybe my biggest sign of improvement in car and driver is I didn't spin this event :mrgreen: Had to give up on a few gates and DNF though.

Reasons against Hoosiers:
-through work I am able to get one set of Nitto NT01s per year for next to nothing.
-I want to drive to the pad/track w/o changing tires. AKA lazy.
-At this point, there just is no need for Hoosiers. It's going to be a while before my skill-set is maxing out the grip of DOT slicks, if ever. I am not going to win in raw time against formula or A-mod cars, nor am I going to win PAX in this car. There are also a few local drivers that are beyond reach of mere mortals so championship podium is probably out of the question.
-I know I'll never want to run DOT tires after Hoosier crack. :wink:

If I find myself at a point where I just can't find any more time in the DOT tires then sure, I'll consider Hoosiers.

Yeah, morning runs were timed. We got 6 practice runs. The afternoon we'd intended to have one warm-up lap, but ran out of time so went straight to the Enduro run. So same lap, but instead of going into the finish box, veer off and do two more laps (dont lose count!). So you start with cold tires/brakes, and gain grip/speed through the laps which is exciting. Also everyone is blind as to how the extra speed of the 2nd lap entry will affect the first elements so that's fun. Downside is there is low overlap, and you can only run 2 heats (we normally do a race,work,rest setup which maximizes pad time). It's meant to be a fun event with teams, costumes etc.

They haven't the results for the Enduro lap yet but I think I did fairly well. Really annoyed I didn't get film of it though. I'm sure someone will post a vid of their onboard soon. I'll share it here if so.
Cheers.

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PostPosted: August 21, 2018, 3:50 pm 
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Here is the Enduro lap of the STX RX8 that beat me in raw time. It's hard to tell on camera, but the humps of the pavement were positioned to really punish a poorly setup car (eg. entry into G-circle). He did well to keep it tidy. Edit: It's interesting to watch the G-meter when cars have data. Check out how often he is at the very limits of the tire grip. Every corner he is pegged to max grip.

https://youtu.be/nSNUTZNCJcY

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PostPosted: September 2, 2018, 7:37 pm 
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So got video. Audio sucks and the camera body flexes too much so video isn't great. I'll have to see what I can do about that before next event
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aET6285xONg&t=1s

Tires are completely shot. I didn't even get halfway through my first run before they went greasy. Was very difficult to keep it sorted. I'm going to see if I can bodge someway to fit my better tires onto the car before next event. Then I'll be out of excuses and have to drive better....... :mrgreen:

This course was pretty technical. I still don't know when I should just point-shoot this car with it's power/brakes, and when I should maintain momentum. And still trying to get the hang of the speed of the inputs. Things happen a little bit faster than in the 100hp Yaris.

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