LocostUSA.com

Yeah I'm not too worried about being competitive. Just having fun and getting better at missing cones. Neither car is a class winner (I'm in HS with the Yaris. Competing with SVT Focus' and Civics.....right. PAX for HS gets way worse next year too btw).
Tires I'm starting with on the locost are 205/50r15 RA1s so should have some stick. The wheels bolt up to the Yaris too so I might run an event or two on the RA1s . Kicks me out of HS though.

Anyhow, Yaris for the Slush Series, and Locost for the summer (I hope!).

Cheers.
Cory

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

I'm glad your still going back to it though. If you keep making progress, it will be done someday. Maybe the Yaris can tow it to the autocross...

Good luck and hope your health hangs in there.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

I am curious about the foot room in a book sized frame using the T-5. How much room do you have? Is there any way you could post a picture of your pedals and the amount of space. Im looking into using the same transmission, so seeing it fit is exciting.

Thanks,
Lee

Thanks Marcus. I'd have to REALLY get the locost light to tow with the yaris. 700lb towing capacity apparently



Hey Lee, I've attached some pics. The T5 definitely fits but I did build the car around it . Car is book width/height only on the outside dimensions. Everything else went where it made sense to me. It's about the maximum sized trans for a book width car with a 6ft, 180lb driver wearing slim shoes. The boots in picture are 4.5" wide and 12" long (I'll be damned, my feet are actually a foot ) I think if you can fit your butt in a book width car, you should be able to fit your feet.

Pedal room was the primary decider for how far back I could locate the engine/trans. I forget the min width I decided on, but I can measure if you like. Once I figured out the minimum, I brought the bellhousing as far back as I could w/o getting in the way. I also offset the engine/trans to the passenger side 1" for more room and to get the weight further back. And I paneled the tunnel on the inside for that area to get another 1" of space. You don't need a lot of room if you have something to smooth slide your foot along. I made sure the panels/tubes were helping in that regard. To work the gas my foot will be touching the tunnel panel. My gas pedal is a horizontal 1/4" rod that takes very little room and allows good throttle control (I hope!).

All said and done the pedal width seems good so far. I haven't had any spirited driving yet though. Feet are straight ahead as I've driven cobra kits etc where they are pointed outwards and it feel terrible to me.

If there are any other pics/angle/info you'd like to see let me know.

Cheers.
Cory

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

Please tell me thats not your wifes legs in the above shot.

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The biggest thing in motocross.

Thank you for that write up and the pictures. They are going to be very helpful. I am quite surprised that the foot room seems much better than i expected and about the same as others with the book outside dimensions.

I have the same pedal setup and I cut about 3/8ths off the right side of my brake pedal to reduce the chance of accidently catching it with the edge of my foot when using the gas pedal.
I did this afterwards and didn't notice any difference when using the narrower brake pedal.
Just some food for thought.

Al

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Super Seven 3.4

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Yes those are my furry legs so don't get too excited about seeing some skin

My girlfriend wouldn't be much use for mocking up my driving position. She is a 4'11" asian whose feet are about the same size as my hands (and not hairy!).

Lee, keep in mind I gained 2" by offsetting the engine and by panelling on the inboard side of the tunnel tubes. That helped a LOT. I also only have around 0.25" clearance to the bellhousing (stiff mounts). It is pretty tight as I wanted that giant heavy engine as far back as possible.

Cheers.
Cory

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

Hmmmm... Maybe we need pictures of your girlfriend...

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Here's one - NO WAIT, that's my blow up doll.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

OK guys, couple questions I need help with.

First, I don't have much room between my seats and the frame/tunnel. I have enough room for the seat belt/harness but not it's adjusters. So I need a pull-up style harness that has all the adjustments for the lap belt close to the latch. My seats are only 15.5" and 14.5" wide so really all the adjusters need to be that close to the latch. Any suggestions? Does that make sense to anyone?

Secondly, my stupid e-brake which shouldn't be so hard, but is killing me. I can't seem to make a decent job of it. The problem is mostly that the cables ends (barrels that are parallel to the cables) are ahead of the spot I need my handle by about 3". The other problem is that I am using drums in the back, and need to be able to pre-tension the cable with a screw type or similar adjuster. So I have two cables, one above the other by about 1" that need to be locked into something that I can adjust some tension on against the e-brake lever (which is behind the cable ends). I've done a little doodle in the hopes someone might understand what I am needing to do. I'll try to take pictures Monday of what I am working with.

Thanks for any input.

Cory

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

Not sure about your belt issues.

I suggest you reroute the cable housings so the ends are further aft, such as routing the left to the right side so the end will be further aft. I also suggest using a ratcheting handle designed to be a ebrake.

Original sevens have the ebrake sideways just below the dash. You can have a cable made that links to the cables you have to reach the ebrake handle under the dash or shorten the housings and swag the cables you have. The new cable can be guided with a piece of brake line, or steel tubing. A greased cable in a bent piece of tubing that only moves back and forth from leveraged hand pressure once or twice a day will last a long time, but use a large radius on any bends.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the input. I forgot I had posted a question.

For the E-brake I managed to bodge something together that is truly hideous, but functional. I will redo it at some point and keep your suggestions in mind.

Seatbelts are sorted as well. Currently making a push to get it all one colour, then hopefully on to inspection.

Thanks again.

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291

I had one similar that had a leak and it kept going down on me.