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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 26, 2010, 5:09 pm 
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If it makes you feel any better, my DD has a wrinkle finish on the intake. You just have to stay on top of keeping it clean.

Being black should help hide dirt. Plus its not like you will be driving the car everyday in every kind of weather.

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PostPosted: July 29, 2010, 11:01 am 
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Location: Seattle, Wa
I've been trying to get as much done to the donor parts as possible prior to the kit arriving…especially items that are easier when they're not installed. So I decided to finish most of my Coolant Re-Route. I won't go into all the details as to why ppl do this (there's plenty of info on the web) - here's what I did:
-plugged the front coolant outlet
-added 1.6L coolant neck to the rear of the head
-moved the Tstat to the rear and drilled a small 3/16" hole in it
-Will run the coolant over the top of the exhaust…I have a coldside super charger, so I'm space limited on that side
-No heater for the car, so I'll need to plug the water pump inlet that normally receives the heater core coolant…I'll wait to do this until I test fit the engine to ensure everything fits properly.

My only concern is that the temp sensor is now pushed out further and is the most rearward object on the engine…I'll have to check clearances once the kit arrives - worst case, I'll have to drill/tap the head to accept the temp sensor.

Top is the OEM '99 miata rear coolant neck - which provides flow to the heater core.
Bottom is a 1.6L front coolant neck, same mount config, but will point directly outwards. (the '99 front coolant neck pointed closer to 45 degrees downward)
The '99 and 1.6L coolant neck have different sized temperature sensors…I found a male/female plug that allowed me to mount the '99 sensor into the 1.6L neck…I modified the plug a little to ensure the temp sensor was in the coolant flow.
Image

I took the OEM '99 thermostat and put it in the rear. The head has the same small lip in it to accommodate the Tstat. Since I won't be running a heater line, I drilled a small ~3/16" hole in the Tstat, to allow some flow through. My basic understanding is that you always want some flow through the engine to prevent hot/cold spots from forming. (you don't want too much flow, otherwise it'll take the engine a long time to heat up)
Image

You can see the "freeze plug" on the front of the head. Normally this is where the neck connects to and houses the Tstat...
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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 12:20 am 
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Joined: February 17, 2010, 1:48 pm
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Location: Seattle, Wa
got my NRG hub adapter and quick release today - fitment was perfect, and no play at all, FTW!!! Only thing left is to find a Lotus horn button for the Momo steering wheel...anyone know where to get one w/o paying $70+ from a European store??

http://www.elise-shop.com/original-lotu ... 54088.html
This is what I want...
Image

NRG's quick release uses ball bearings - I read tons of reviews and everyone said there was no play in the steering wheel, but I was still worried there would be b/c of "ball bearings"...but to my great pleasure, there's no play whatsoever!
Image

installation was super easy - I plan on having the turn signal/light switches on the dash, no windshield, and ignition/start on the dash as well...so the steering Column is much simplified - which means no more hitting the windshield wipers while autoXing :D
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after looking at the ignition for several minutes, then jumping online, I figured out that the top bolts are some type of rivet (the top of the bolt is rounded off so you can't remove it easily)...a few drill bits and extractor bits later, and it was out! (I've gotten much better at using extractor bits...my donor '99 miata was from Salt Lake City and I've had my fair share of broken bolts)
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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 2:01 am 
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In the pic of your engine, the crank pulley isn't lined up with the arrow while it appears that the cams pullies are.
I'd double check that if I were you.

Moti

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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 10:03 am 
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Blackbird wrote:
In the pic of your engine, the crank pulley isn't lined up with the arrow while it appears that the cams pullies are.
I'd double check that if I were you.

Moti


I had noticed that when the original timing belt was on...the car had been running great before I pulled it, so I just assumed it was ok and transferred the new timing belt to the same configuration. IIRC sometimes it's off by a little from the factory, even though it's correct...or is this so far off that it's likely to have skipped a notch?? I would've expected the engine to run rough if it had skipped a notch, right?

thanks for the sharp eyes - very appreciated!

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PostPosted: August 4, 2010, 2:00 am 
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Weird that it came that way but it doesn't change the fact that it's off.
Are you using a factory manual to do the job?
Also, from the angles that the camera's lense create it's a bit hard to tell, but it doesn't look like your cam gear are perfectly vertical - || , they look more like - \ / .
IIRC when they are perfectly vertical the tooth count on the belt between the marks on the gears should be 19 and it looks from the picture like 20.

Moti

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PostPosted: August 4, 2010, 9:57 am 
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Location: Seattle, Wa
Blackbird wrote:
Weird that it came that way but it doesn't change the fact that it's off.
Are you using a factory manual to do the job?
Also, from the angles that the camera's lense create it's a bit hard to tell, but it doesn't look like your cam gear are perfectly vertical - || , they look more like - \ / .
IIRC when they are perfectly vertical the tooth count on the belt between the marks on the gears should be 19 and it looks from the picture like 20.

Moti


Moti - thanks for the reply...I was following the miata.net/garage write-up on this. I've got the factory manual and will pull it out to double check everything. Hopefully this means the engine was just running sub-optimal when I got it...so when I fix this, it'll gain some powa! :lol:


Question - for those who've shipped frames/body panels, what NMFC class were they rated? My kit car was shipped from the Baltimore port and was originally classified as Class 200...now they're saying it's a class 300 and that I owe $1,000 more in transport fees!! (This feels more like ransom than anything else...after they transport my kit car to Seattle, they now say I owe an additional $1K, otherwise they won't deliver!)

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PostPosted: August 4, 2010, 11:20 am 
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It looks like it is a racket to me. According to:

http://freightpad.com/most-common-freight-classes-nmfc-codes

ATV less than 8 lbs- cu ft Internal combustion engine, battery disconnected, drained of fuel/oil NMFC code = 150
ATV more than 8 lbs- cu ft ATV in boxes or crates, with internal combustion, battery disconnected drained of fuel/oil NMFC code = 100
Cars Passenger cars NMFC code = 150

Also take a look at the "go-Kart" catagory. There is a link to a menu based on weight. It says
Quote:
"Also applies on internal combustion engine powered tubular frame vehicles without bodies, not designed for general highway use."


My guess is that your shipment may not follow these codes if the drivetrain was not included. In that case you may be scr%#ed. My understanding is that when the LTL load is reclassified, then the shipper's discount previously applied to the shipment may be voided and you pay fiull rate. I'm certainly no expert on this.

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PostPosted: August 4, 2010, 12:42 pm 
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rx7locost - thanks for the info...I'm trying to fight this - but what a PITA!

you wouldn't happen to know what NMFC 191730-00 Class 300 is? That's what they've changed it to...from what I could find online, it looks like they're saying it's a Trailer?!

FWIW, Density is 5.71 lbs/cubic foot...which should be Class 150 just based on density. (I understand that other factors like how fragile something is can change the class...but they've yet to tell me why they changed the class).

thanks!

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PostPosted: August 6, 2010, 12:08 pm 
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Shippers can be pretty damn scummy, sorry. :BH: Especially with residential deliveries.

I don't know a single person with a good experience. :ack:

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PostPosted: August 6, 2010, 1:35 pm 
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After hearing that many shippers do this as a scam, I've told them to either honor their quote or send it back to Baltimore - I can find a different shipper if I have to.

What a joy-kill...I was so pumped to get my kit. Luckily this build is a ~6 month project - a few days/weeks won't change it too much.

Another good note - I re checked the timing belt and ignoring how the old belt was previously, my exhaust cam was off by 1 notch...hopefully this means the engine was running sub optimal and now it'll have some more ooommff!!

-Peter

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PostPosted: August 9, 2010, 11:58 am 
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so I held to my guns and the shipping company has decided to "re-re-classify" the cargo back to their original class and honor their initial quote...kit should arrive in the next day or 2 :mrgreen: :lol: :P :D :) :o

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PostPosted: August 9, 2010, 12:05 pm 
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Great news Peter.

We soon get to see the build! Pics starting with the uncrating would be nice.

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PostPosted: August 9, 2010, 12:09 pm 
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:thmbsup:

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PostPosted: August 10, 2010, 7:55 pm 
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Joined: April 22, 2009, 3:30 pm
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Location: Fairfield, CT
Hey Peter, Ed from CT here, I bought the top from your donor, very, very happy with it. Thank you! I'm psyched to find your build thread here! I'll be following your progress and wish you the best of luck with everything.

EB


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