LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently November 16, 2018, 5:29 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 77 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: April 22, 2013, 4:58 pm 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7179
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Good stuff!!! I like it, a lot!!! Well done, Sir!
:cheers:
Regards-
JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 4:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
So it's been a while, and the car has been a little neglected. I pulled it into the garage and made a few changes. Mostly to make it slightly less uncomfortable to drive, and more in line with my advancing years...

Margard Windshield, LED headlights, mirrors, Procar Evolution seat, 195/45R16 ft, 235/40R17 rr, 125# ft springs (from 200!), 150# rr springs, Walbro fuel pump.


Attachments:
7-IMG_0263.jpg
7-IMG_0263.jpg [ 1.84 MiB | Viewed 723 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 6:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3682
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
It looks like I joined LocostUSA.com after you finished your car. I'm glad to see you've been enjoying it for some time. I looked back through your build log. That Pacific Northwest Tour looks like it was a super event. Hopefully there will be an event like that when mine is finished.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 2, 2018, 10:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
Lonnie-S wrote:
That Pacific Northwest Tour looks like it was a super event. Hopefully there will be an event like that when mine is finished.

Cheers,


I hope so, too. It's been a while.

Here is one of my many prototypes. In the end I chose the more conventional clear version.


Attachments:
IMG_0210.JPG
IMG_0210.JPG [ 773.21 KiB | Viewed 642 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 23, 2018, 11:26 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
After buying various special tools over the years, I figured out this is by far the best way to measure camber (and toe-in, in horizontal position).


Attachments:
IMG_0318.JPG
IMG_0318.JPG [ 533.95 KiB | Viewed 502 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 23, 2018, 11:29 pm 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
Posts: 4729
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Awesome!

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 25, 2018, 2:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
So I have been running a circle-track ring and pinion with a "2-1/2"" ratio, which means the rack moves 2.5" for every rotation. This gave me 1.5 turns lock-lock, and the wheels have a very generous lock. With 60 series tires this was ok once you got used to it, but with stiff 45 series sidewalls it was just too twitchy. I have an Appleton brand rack, which has pretty much gone out of business, but I found Fred Appleton's phone number and he made me an identical rack, with used parts, with a 2" ratio, giving me 2 turns lock-lock. I just tested it and it's perfect.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 10:20 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
Here is a somewhat long term project I am working on. It's a JDM K20A DC5, about twice as much hp as the 1.6. I chose a K20 over a K24 pretty much because it's 3/4" shorter. It will mount to a Miata 5-speed with Kmiata adapter parts. The Civic alternator is reverse mounted to reduce width and clear my steering shaft. I want to do as much to it on the stand as I can to minimize car down time.


Attachments:
IMG_0332.JPG
IMG_0332.JPG [ 931.96 KiB | Viewed 318 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 10:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
I've been doing some work to the water pump case. First I machined off a bunch of material that was holding the alternator, then I tapped and plugged the PCV output (no, I don't know why the PCV gasses are routed through the water pump) and made a new hole that cleared the new throttle body location. This last thing is difficult to explain. Honda guys routinely eliminate this weird plastic thermostat intermediate housing and bolt an aftermarket swivel outlet (with thermostat) directly to the water pump. But this means an round o-ring is sealing to a triangular hole, and I don't understand why they don't always leak. So this is me turning a triangular hole into a round one by welding/machining/grinding. The bubbles in the welds are unfortunate and it means I will have to use some RTV.


Attachments:
IMG_0337.JPG
IMG_0337.JPG [ 986.73 KiB | Viewed 312 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 10:39 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
I should mention this is a K24 water pump housing. The K20 pump has an water/oil cooler output that came out right where my alternator wanted to be.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 10:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
This is a nicely machined header flange off ebay, with, I guess, K24 sized holes, bolted to my K20. I'm trying to decide if I'm concerned about the rather large port mismatch on the bottom.


Attachments:
image1.jpeg
image1.jpeg [ 78.81 KiB | Viewed 312 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 18, 2018, 10:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 9, 2010, 2:03 pm
Posts: 22
Non-engine:
I bought this 2000 Miata axle with 4.30 r/p and a Torsen LS, because supposedly the 3rd member will bolt right into my 1984 RX-7 axle housing. We shall see.

I am also working on a home brew 11.5" brake setup front/rear, but there's nothing much to take pics of yet.


Attachments:
s-l1600.jpg
s-l1600.jpg [ 273.36 KiB | Viewed 311 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 19, 2018, 7:34 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1504
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Squarefour's Exhaust port
"I'm trying to decide if I'm concerned about the rather large port mismatch on the bottom."
The mismatch at the bottom of your exhaust port may actually improve the HP. A step in the lower bottom edge of the exhaust port, acts as a anti- reversion step to reduce flow back thru the head at lower RPM. Note: You want a even transition on the top of the exhaust port which sees the highest flow rate.
DaveW


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 19, 2018, 11:05 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3682
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@davew

I'm just wondering if there could also be some sort of "expansion effect" too like we see being employed at the very end of exhaust pipes. You know, where the last few inches of the exhaust pipe exit to the atmosphere goes from say 1-1/2" to 2". I know it can have a beneficial effect on gas flow, but don't know what the phenomenon involved is called.

I'm wondering more than speculating here.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 25, 2018, 5:44 pm 
Offline
Always Moore!
User avatar

Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
Posts: 3941
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
squarefour wrote:
supposedly the 3rd member will bolt right into my 1984 RX-7 axle housing.


Its been a few years since I've looked at it but I believe: 1) it depends on whether it is Turbo I or II and 2) the 1.8 Miata and Turbo II shared the same aluminum housing so no benefit to swapping.

I did swap a 1.8L Torsen II into a Turbo II assembly (removed the open diff, replaced with Miata diff) with no problems: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11437&start=701

I didn't want to lose the benefits of the longer housing so the swap was wor

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 77 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY