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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 1:36 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Unfortunately I think the 600cc engine upgrade has put you into the power range where you can't get away with questionable drivetrain solutions.

There was an issue with the axles' heat treat on one of the FSAE cars I was involved with - they were 4340 but obviously not strong enough. You have even more power and more grip than we had. Like carguy said, the weld is going to be brittle and you won't be lucky enough for it to just deform.
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Do you have any machinist friends that could help with making a one piece axle from 4340 and getting it correctly heat treated?

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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 10:09 pm 
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One huge difference is getting rid of the CVT. Spin out with a cvt and the wheels roll backwards, no big deal. Spin out with the bike motor and trans and you need to be on the clutch REALLY FAST. I wasn't fast enough.

I've found a company that can make me a complete center axle section. I'll be talking with them tomorrow to get a quote.

I'm thinking if I can limp through this season I will do a major overhaul this winter. A friend is willing to donate the limited slip diff from his GTO. I would have to build the bearing carrier and all of the necessary bits, plus put brakes on both axles.

Hopefully I won't keep looping it.

Today I worked on side pods 2.0
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Turned the radiators up sideways so they don't stick out so far. Mounting steel is some structural angle I had lying around.
I need to make air scoops and gravel guards.

Once those are buttoned up I'll build new wing mounts.

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PostPosted: June 20, 2017, 10:06 am 
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a.moore wrote:
Unfortunately I think the 600cc engine upgrade has put you into the power range where you can't get away with questionable drivetrain solutions.

Do you have any machinist friends that could help with making a one piece axle from 4340 and getting it correctly heat treated?


Dutchman quoted $300 for a heat treated 4340 axle. Splined on both ends to fit my CV cups and milled 1/4" keyway for drive hub and brake rotor.

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PostPosted: June 20, 2017, 11:57 pm 
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Always Moore!
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That doesn't sound half bad. I think you're going to need to do something along those lines.

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PostPosted: June 21, 2017, 1:12 am 
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Have zero experience with custom made axles. Did have a pair of adaptors made in aluminum about 5 years ago. I thought the $135 was reasonable, at least compared to other quotes I got. Three hundred for machining an axle at first may seem high but I'm thinking it's a deal. Especially if it brings peace of mind.

Good luck.

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PostPosted: June 21, 2017, 8:52 am 
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Honestly $300 isn't bad considering I know how long it takes to hob axle splines.

The bad part is I have the knowledge and the skill, but no access to the right tools. Even if I could lay hands on a milling machine and rotary table, the hob for cutting the splines would be close to $200 for a one off. Not really worth the investment.

Sometimes you have to pay the peeps with the right tools.

For now I'm going to drive the snot out of it until it breaks again. :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 21, 2017, 10:35 am 
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I'd really recommend getting 2 axles with the right splines and cutting them to length and sleeving them together if you can. not sure if your bearing setup will allow for a larger sleeve diameter and still put it together. Do you know a donor vehicle that has the right splines and axle diameter? junk yard axles shold be cheap.

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PostPosted: June 21, 2017, 11:23 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
I'd really recommend getting 2 axles with the right splines and cutting them to length and sleeving them together if you can. not sure if your bearing setup will allow for a larger sleeve diameter and still put it together. Do you know a donor vehicle that has the right splines and axle diameter? junk yard axles shold be cheap.


It's a Ford spline. That's the good news.

I could re-engineer for a larger diameter axles, but it wouldn't be quick.
These bearing cassettes won't accept bearings for 1 1/4 inch bore. I could blow the whole carrier assembly apart and machine for larger cassettes. Then overbore the hub and brake disc hub for larger diameter axle. Last step would be 6 new split locking collars to hold all of the bits in place.

I'm also looking for stepped axles where the main shaft is less than 1" od. That would make the sleeved option quick and easy. Trip to the local pick n pull in my future.

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OOPS I did it again
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PostPosted: June 24, 2017, 5:56 pm 
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Didn't make it to the pick n pull to look for axles. I'll give that a go at a later date.

Today I went to work on two must get done projects. The rear wing stays and the side pod sheetmetal.

The wing stays were pretty easy. I picked a random height and layback for the rear stays that would give me a pleasing to the eye height for the wing and cut 1" OD 1/8 wall tube to length.

I cut a couple of 1/8 x 1 strips and drilled to bolt to the wing. Then lightly tacked those to the stays at a 20 degree layback.
A bit of fiddling with magnetic weld brackets, clamps, and some creative twisting and holding got the rear stays tacked in place.

then a few measurements and cut some 1/2 x .065 wall tube for the front stays. These got 20 degree bends 3 inches from the end, then more finagling with weld clamps and creative holding to tack them on.
Bolt on the wing, measure measure measure measure some more, then weld.

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Now I can do chin ups from the wing without it moving. I try to move it side to side and I can move the trailer before the wing flexes.

No pics of the side pods today. I did cut the sheet metal and bend. Still have to trim around the fuel fill and fuel pressure regulator to get it all to fit up.

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PostPosted: June 25, 2017, 12:39 am 
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Tommy,

It sure looks like those radiator fins badly need a combing out.

Could the car survive with a single rad that was flowing air correctly? That would save you some weight.

Bill

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PostPosted: June 25, 2017, 9:30 am 
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BHRmotorsport wrote:
Tommy,

It sure looks like those radiator fins badly need a combing out.

Could the car survive with a single rad that was flowing air correctly? That would save you some weight.

Bill


Yeah Bill, these fins have taken quite a beating. I could probably make it happy with the tiny little bike radiator and cooling fan. Main reason for the dual rads is it's what came with it. It really doesn't need capacity to cool 500 hp.

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PostPosted: June 25, 2017, 1:39 pm 
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Harbor Freight has fin combs for cheap. Probably eBay too. They're also quite handy when you manage to mash some of the fins on the $300 radiator that gravity assisted installation to your truck...

The oval track guys run 1/2" "rabbit wire" mesh in front of their radiators. It's open enough not to block too much air like window screen, strong enough to ward off most track debris, and anything that can make it through the mesh is ususally too small to damage the radiator.


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PostPosted: June 26, 2017, 7:45 am 
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Welded wire cloth or mesh from mcmaster is what I use: https://www.mcmaster.com/#welded-wire-cloth-screens/=188hos9


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PostPosted: July 11, 2017, 3:02 pm 
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So I combed out the fins with the cheap horrible fright comb. Still looks bad, just not as bad. Not folded over, so air can pass through though. :wink:

Then bent the sheet metal for the side pods. It flexed like crazy in the 18 gage, so I wheeled it a little to put some stretch, thereby putting some tension in the panels. Now it's somewhat rippled, and dinged, and dented, and I don't care. :lol:

What it really is now is stiffened and functional...with a little rattle can red to hide the blood stains.

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OOPS I did it again
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Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: August 7, 2017, 2:27 pm 
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Took the A Mod out to play yesterday and shared it with a friend. Justin, my co-driver beat my best time by almost 2 seconds. I guess 1/2 my age and no worries over breaking something have their advantages.

Here's my first run of the day. I was being tentative and getting a feel for how it would behave. I got a little glare on the visor and got off course late in the run. Corrected that part in future runs.

A quick rundown on the day. We each got 3 runs before anything bad happened. I was `1 second from the finish on my 3rd run when I got into the sand, looped it. and threw the chain. A little quick fix and we each got our 4th runs in, then drove it onto the trailer under it's own power. SUCCESS!!!!!

Supposed to go to a buddy's house this afternoon and pick up some NOS Hoosier slicks for the rear. Hope they'll hook a little better.

My first run
https://youtu.be/eQr-4MIU1XU

Justin's best run
https://youtu.be/990XcDlxB-A


The car is running better each time out. I have a few things to work out yet. I want to soften the suspension just a little without losing ride height. Need to take out a little bit of front toe and add a touch more caster. Most important thing is rear tires and getting the outside to stay planted and gripping.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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