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PostPosted: February 17, 2011, 9:48 am 
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Do you have a better pic of the shift linkage? It's difficult to see everything going on from that angle.

Middy linkages are interesting problem with multiple solutions. I know yours is finished but I wanted to share my version:

Tan steel washers
Purple steel tubing with ID .250" greater than shaft OD
Red steel tubing with ID slightly greater than shaft OD
Red steel roll pin holes, brown cotter pin holes
Light blue tubing welded to purple tubes
Blue uhmw "top hat" bushings with thrust flange
Grey spherical bearing linkage

Bushings allow rotation. Longer purple tube prevents cocking during fore/aft shifter movement.
Longer arm on shifter shaft reduces lateral shifter throw, narrowing gate (if desired).

Will your baffles allow all the oil to reach the drain plug when lifted? Will you be adding a scrapper or a lip along the edge to catch oil trying to climb up the side of the block?


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Frame L x cockpit W x eng bay HT (w/o hood/bonnet/cowl)
Lotus Super Seven: 115 (no spare) x39x7.25
Tiger Avon: 114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion (Book): 114x42x11
Gibbs Haynes: 122x42x14
Voo Doo: 113x44x14
McSorley “442”122x46x14
Collins “241” 127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 17, 2011, 2:29 pm 
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Miatav8, Thank you for the input but unfortunately the linkage is not just offset but Toyota reverses the way the shift rod works as compared to a VW Bug/Porsche trans. The linear motion of the shift rod (normally engages each gear) has to be converted to a rotary motion on the transmission shaft to engage each gear. Therefore the rotary motion of the shift rod has to move the transmission shift rod in/out to select the 1/2, 3/4 and 5/R shift rails.
I am using 3 bell cranks. 2 to convert the motion (rotary/linear) and one to isolate the motion of the engine/trans from the chassis.
The bellcrank on the right is for gear engagement - the shift rod attaches to it. The one in the middle is the motion isolator and the one toward the left is for shift rail position. The left bellcrank attaches between the motion isolator and the transmission. I included another picture but unfortunately the linkage is disassembled now. I will take more/better pictures when I next reassemble the linkage.

All the channels in the box baffle are within 1/16" of the bottom of the pan so only a small amount of oil would remain when drained. I added the drain plug after the pictures were taken. The stock drain plug probably allows a 1/4" of oil in the bottom of the pan.
A scraper would not be very effective (IMO) on the 4AGE because the bottom of the block is virtually level with the bottom of the crank assembly. The stock windage tray only has a slight bow, towards the pan, to clear the crank.

JMR


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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

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PostPosted: February 17, 2011, 6:27 pm 
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It's easier for me to see with that last pic. I see you explained it before but I guess I overlooked it.
Looks good!

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R ('70s mazda pickup)
http://www.vsusp.com
ford IFS cheap viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Frame L x cockpit W x eng bay HT (w/o hood/bonnet/cowl)
Lotus Super Seven: 115 (no spare) x39x7.25
Tiger Avon: 114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion (Book): 114x42x11
Gibbs Haynes: 122x42x14
Voo Doo: 113x44x14
McSorley “442”122x46x14
Collins “241” 127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 17, 2011, 10:59 pm 
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Thanks Miatav8, all comments are appreciated.

JMR

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: February 18, 2011, 8:25 am 
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JMR
I agree there is not a lot of room between the oil pan, the windtray, and the crank to the engine block side on a 4AGE. I attach the scraper directly to the windtray and added a wire mesh diffuser, hoping that I could reduce some of oil from being thrown back up into the crank off of the tray. This should be good for another 567HP. DuH may be I forgot a decimal point? :lol:
Dave W


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PostPosted: February 18, 2011, 11:41 am 
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Dave W,

I have to look at my stock tray to get a better understanding of what you did. Further questions later.

JMR

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PostPosted: February 18, 2011, 7:17 pm 
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Very cool work, thanks for posting!

Rod

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PostPosted: February 19, 2011, 7:48 pm 
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JMR

Nice fab work. I know how long it takes to get accurate bends in sheet metal. Your time investment will pay off.

Just a quick comment that could help improve the fatigue life of your chassis. Im not sure if this was done prior to bending or you are aware, but draw filing the edges of the sheet metal to a smooth finish prior to bending significantly reduces the chances of cracks forming from the radiuses. A genral rule is to use three times the thickness of the material for a bend radius. The metal work hardens in the bend and tiny cracks form if the bend radius is less than the mininum. I have a book with chart with this data at home...three provinces away, but can look it up if you would like when Im back home. Also avoid scribing aluminum at all costs, especially at the rivet layout lines and bend radius marks, cracks can propogate from here as well.

I would inspect the radiuses and polish up the areas such as I have highlighted below. This is of more importance to your build as 6061 does not have the fatigue resistance of 2024-t3.
Attachment:
Feb%2012%20009.jpg


Good call on the adhesives AND rivets... quality rivets as well. Have a look through this thread regarding metal bonding. If you were just bonding everything together, there would be some concern. Through all of my research, experience, and formal training, I would expect a maximum strength of the adhesive bond of approx two years, and diminishing from then on based on the prep process you described. The degredation of the joint is due to corrosion of the metal and the expoxy slowly loosing its bond to the metal, not the epoxy itself. Perhaps a lower strength adhesive bonded to a acid washed, alodined, and epoxy primed metal may give you a much longer shelf life of the bond but at a lower strength.

lots of good information in this forum:
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forum ... 024-a.html

And of course all coments are aimed at taking your already impressive build to higher level.

All the best
Andrew


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PostPosted: February 19, 2011, 11:38 pm 
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WOW! Airframefixer, I hold you as the nirvana of builders. I greatly appreciate your comments.
I went with 6061-T4 for its more ductile qualities and used a thicker material (.063") to improve fatigue life. Unfortunately this is more seat of the pants engineering than actual calculations. I prepped the sheet metal with "large debured holes" at the center of the bend line or created those stress relieving holes after fabrication. The mount that you indicated is actually a very low stressed part but I understand your concern.
A car I designed and built in the 70's is still around ( I do not know if it is still being run or not). I copied a lot of the then current technology and had some great input from fabricator/designers of CanAm cars at the time.
The rivets are the main structural fastener with the adhesive being used to bond/seal the joint. I have seen rivets loosen in a automotive vehicle environment, showing a gray ring around the loose rivet. I am Carrol Smith's recommendations in this regard.
I was going to clean the aluminum with acetone, and sand the surface to be bonded and clean again with acetone just prior to using the adhesive. I have alodine but had not thought of using it as I was concerned with a break down of the bond due to using intermediary materials. I am going to have the subframes sand blasted then I will immediately acid prime them. I was then going to use a sanding disk to clean the bonding surface to bare metal just prior to riveting/bonding. I intended to allow the primer to slightly overlap into the bonding area so that no bare steel from the subframes was exposed.

JMR


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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

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PostPosted: February 20, 2011, 11:06 am 
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Your cleaning process is OK. We make the Aluminum frame for the Corvette ZO-6 and have bonded panels with a life expectancy of 30+yrs and we just remove the oxide and clean with alcohol. You have to apply the bonding agent within 30 minutes. You should check out Asland Chemical for thier structural adhesives. They have about 8 different types that will fit your needs.
Dave W


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PostPosted: February 20, 2011, 1:30 pm 
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Thanks Dave but I have already purchased $150.00 worth of 3M 2216b/a. I have to get back to the tub soon before the expiration of the adhesive. We have had a lot of rain and freezing temps which makes me nervous about sandblasting and priming the sub assemblies. I know I will be welding on "brackets" but will remove the primer in those areas.

JMR

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: February 20, 2011, 7:45 pm 
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I have seen this car inperson and it really is going to be something very nice. John nows his stuff. Can't wait to see this car run at the rate he is going it should be done this year.


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PostPosted: April 23, 2011, 2:32 am 
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Life has gotten in the way. Other projects took precedent for the moment.

Actually I have been working on details that are not visibly apparent most of the time. Freshened the 4AGE - bore was ok but replaced the pistons with one of the last sets of high comp. pistons from Rockauto. New bearings, 5 angle valve job and clean up the ports, plus a little paint.

Almost finished with a set of headers. The last of the material should be here tomorrow. 1.5" primary to 1.625" secondary to 1.75" merge with a taper back up to 2.25". The 2.25" will dump into a 3" u-bend that then tapers back down to a 2.25" muffler. I just bought the 1.5" but had the 1.625" on hand. All the tubing is .065 (16 gauge) for durability. Took the rear subframe off the back of the tub to fit the headers. Notice the change of #4 exhaust pipe between 2 of the pictures. Too much interference with the shift linkage and coolant pipe location.

I have also redone the shift linkage for the fourth time!! One of the bracket locations was in the header location.

No comments on fuel tank material post so I went with stainless. I got a good deal (free) on most of the material. Used a friends shear and brake to form one tank and will go back to his shop tomorrow to form the second tank. Another friend showed me how to weld the tanks efficiently. I hope it works - VERY little rod - mainly fusing. The coolant lines, shift linkage and other needed items are located between the tanks. I figured out a transfer system for keeping fuel around the intank pump.

Left rear suspension was very loosely hung on the rear subframe to check brake hose and e-brake placement. Added the brake hose brackets for the rear and figured out where the front brackets will go.

Started fitting the coolant lines and figuring out the hose routing. Trying to use the MR2 hoses as possible - cutting and fitting.


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When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: April 23, 2011, 12:48 pm 
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This is looking really good. I'm sure you know as much about fuel tank materials as we do! :cheers:

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PostPosted: April 23, 2011, 12:55 pm 
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Thanks Horizonjob, and I ALWAYS have questions. Too much over thinking. Then tunnel vision to solve one problem while creating more problems.

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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