LocostUSA.com

Tiger Aviator http://www.tigerracing.com/aviator.php

Worked on the windshield frame. Will be making a fiberglass framework that will be bonded around the windshield frame. The windshield pieces (3/16" laminate) will then be bonded to the fiberglass.

Also worked on nose mold. The mold (taken from a friends middy project) was done in 4 oversize pieces so that I could widen without using filler strips. Usually I would make a rough plug from this temporary mold that would be shaped to the final form, then make a finished mold to make the part. This time I am going to do more detail in this mold and make a semi finished part that will be final finished for the project. No one else will want this exact nose. and I hope not to destroy it.

Engine/trans back in for next to last final fitment, I hope.

JMR

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When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

More updatez please. I know you must be almost ready to drive? Best build on this site.

More progress - mainly fiberglass. Making forms/molds, parts, fitting parts and "glassing" together.
Center section is 1/8" & 1/4" plywood with 2 layers of cloth on the inside. A mahogany runabout?

JMR

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

This is great work, JMR. I think it's going to be beautiful. Nice and appropriate use of wood too!

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Lookin' good...

I kinda wish a design like this had been finalised/popularised about 10 years ago, when there were no end of cheap rusted out MR2s and X 1/9 s available.

It looks kind of like you wanted to round off it's butt a bit there but settled for angles and flats... One thing you can do, is cut a bunch of shallow kerfs on the back side (short side) of a piece you want to curve and it will bend real easy.

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traynee rockit serjun

DD#1 '95 Ford Escort Wagon 1.9 Auto, self PnPed stage 2-3ish head, 11ish CR, Airhog panel filter, awaiting headers and intake mods. ~110-120 BDHP
DD#2 '88 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 Auto, shift kitted, alloys, walker exhaust, timing advance. Awaiting PnP heads. ~150 BDHP

The weight of the wood does not add much to the build. I tried to get a tighter radius from the wood (kerfed one side even) but was not successful. There is a more formable plywood but it is not readily available where I live. I am using 26 gauge sheetmetal, pushing it into single radius forms and then glassing the form for the tighter radius parts. Some forms were made from plywood, hot glue and bondo. A quick dab of sanding sealer, green wax and pva readied the mold.
The forms are quick and dirty!!

JMR

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

There's nothing wrong with using wood in a car body Even a chassis!

This is the Costin Amigo.

Body work is very time consuming and my design is using a lot of fiberglass bodywork! This is a one off vehicle and I do not see the need (time and cost also) to make refined plugs and dedicated molds that will only be used once. I am using single curvature forms for the panels. The forms for making the panels consist of particle board, 1x fir strips, 1/8" & 1/4" plywood and 26 gauge steel flashing material. A local "tin shop" has cut and prebent the reinforcing edges for less than $60.
Earlier posts show the rear body work and nose mold in process.

JMR

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

looks like a skateboard park

Where are the updates?

Thanks for the question but I am tired of the posers!! I post and no comments. Real work takes time and thought especially when it is a one off. I see pages of posts with no work done only "words" as the BBCA Top Gunners say.

JMR

Slow progress.
Doors are working but no side glass (lexan). First tilt out to clear body then lift with gas strut. Spring loaded pin locks front and rear.
Dash - lexan still covered over MR2 instrument cluster. Subaru headlight/wiper/heater switches.
Heater assembly including blower resistor and heater valve/cable, installed brake lines and cruise control switch (to drivers left of dash)
Wiper motor - hole for single wiper.
Windshield frame with glass temporarily set inplace.
Headlight mounts and lights - 5 3/4", just starting the wiring.
Front roll structure will be removed, detailed (brackets, final welding and touch up paint) and permanently installed (adhesive, rivets and welding). Then wiring can be done in earnest.
Work -few words.

JMR

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

Few words, much admiration.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Horizenjob, Thank you.