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Mstr, out of curiousity what is the outer diameter of your tires?

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I'd gladly take lighter seats in exchange for heavier f-glass fenders...

bryan

The tires are about 23", Rob. A little hot air to stretch and they would be the perfect radius. I should have stretched them first, then cut and welded but abs is forgiving.


I have some fiberglass low back buckets with grey diamond tuck that weigh about 3 lbs each, and would have dropped me a lot more but I like the neon seats. The neon seat mod has reduced the weight to 28 lbs with seat belt receiver. I prefer fiero seats but those are rare and pricey now.

The lightweight fiberglass buggy seats, frankly... well, suck from a comfort standpoint. Not too bad for short distances, but plan on padding them with good density foam under the covers if you ever opt to use them. Miata seats have become the replacement in the dune buggy world for Fiero seats.

bryan

I know what you mean about needing the foam underneath. Not crazy about how the seat would react in an accident either.

Finished up the seat tracks with allen socket steel 1/4-20 x 3/4 bolts. These bolts are slightly larger od than the rivets but they are close together. Rivet spacing is closer on one end of the track than the other, and hex head bolts would just clear each other but could not be turned. Used nylocks also.

I think I said the hbf iron tip got hot and snapped off. I bought another one and it failed in exactly same way.

These welds are with the radioshack iron and a braid tip. The point was to get full penetration, then follow up with another pass using filler to regain the crosssection and fill the trench. I returned the hbf irons and bought their air type with integral fan to do that.

The filler is one of the cut offs, flattened with a hot air gun, then cut with a scroll saw into narrow strips.

To increase the fender radius for the 15 tire, I cut off the inner flange, then heated with a hot air gun and pressed it down until it cooled. They were all cut to the same length, so once I had one with the correct radius, I used it as a height and length guide next to the fender being stretched and used the same guide for all 3. I offset the flange so the seam would not line up to make the welds less critical.

In hindsite, it would have been less expensive and less trouble just to bolt them to each other as shown.

Installed copper flange nuts on the exhaust manifold and fit the oil pressure and water temp senders.

well, I actually have direct experience with that exact style seat in a crash. in fact, its the seat that is now the drivers seat in the B-3.

back in the late 90s, I had an '87 camaro Z28 -with the Z28-starter-kit 190 horse 4bbl 305 and shift-kitted 700-R4 - which I did a bunch of autocrossing with. I had installed that 3-layer fiberglass dune buggy seat on a steel tube bracket I made, which held the seat by both the bottom (4 bolts) and about 12 inches up the back (2 bolts), and attached to the stock camaro adjustable seat tracks. I'd added the supprort to teh back because those fiberglass seats are a bit flexy in the flat areas. the seat was fastened to the steel tube with 3/8 inch hardware store, um, hardware, with some handmade steel doubler plates on the inside ( basically, a couple lengths of that standard zinc-plated predrilled mild steel bracket strapping you can get at about any hardware store).

yup, I aded an extra layer of foam under my butt. bot otherwise, it wasn't all that uncomfortable with the padding that came with the upholstery, and that car was my commuter ride as well. I had replaced the inertia-reel 3 point belts with manual adjusting 3 points belts to hold me in tighter during autocrosses. I dug that seat - the deep sides hold me nice and secure - and it was one of the few things I saved out of the Camaro after it got totalled.

yeah so, how it got totalled. not my finest moment. on a short side street with a "T" instersection, tree branches were partially obscuring a stop sign facing me, and duh, I blew through it, saw the sign as I went by it. ooops. BUT, at that time two teens in mom's camry came bombing thru the intersection, and T-boned the camaro on the passenger side rear wheel, hard enough to spin the car 180 degrees into a parked car and crack the camry's transmission housing in two (later the Policeman cited them for speeding).

the camaro was wiped. the rear axle stuck 8 inches farther out of the drivers side than passenger, the passenger rear corner was a folded mess, as was the drivers side rear corner from smashing into the parked car as I spun, and the posi in the differential was broken as well (as I found out doing One Last Burnout, just before the car was loaded onto the flatbed and hauled away to the boneyard).

the seat? didn't move. I had my 3 point cinched up tight and my legs and arms flailed a bit after the impact, but it held me right in place. the stock camaro seat tracks bent where they mounted to the floor, but my steel tube bracket, the fiberglass dune buggy seat, no issues.

Now, I know that tis is only one sample in the database, and anecdotal hearsay as well, so here's the grain of salt you should take it with, and I'm a rock climber who commutes 100 miles a day by motorcycle so and raced alky karts for a little while so my personal level of risk aversion may be seen to be insufficient, BUT...

I've crashed in that kind of seat, and it worked out fine, for me, and the idea of using two of those seats in the B-3 didn't/doesn't give me pause. bolt 'em in strudy with appropriate support, belt yourself in tight, and have at it!

YRMV, and the like...

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It appears that seat mounting hardware today is amazingly stout. A while back I read a blog/forum/group where a guy used a seat adjusting mechanism for an adjustable pedal mount. It seemed like a good idea. Any comments???
Stan

Thanks for the input, Rob.

Ski, I'm sure that could work fine with hoses at the master cylinder rather than hard lines with accordion grommets for the pass through.

I built a very rough frame from scrap wood to get into to test fit, since there are no plans, and it helped a lot. Decided on a more reclined position and moved the beam forward. Windscreen frame is set at a 25 degree angle. Found the steering input shaft is too far outboard and each end of the rack protrudes from the frame by about 6 inches, so I’ve ordered an 8.5” wide rack with center input and 5/8-36 spline, two ujoints, and 3, 6 inch, 5/8-36 spline shafts for about $190, shipped. ¾ od dom and two bearings will form the column with a quick release hub welded to the end. The intermediate shaft will have a collapsible section simple to what the beetles came with, basically expanded metal sheet rolled into a tube and welded, then welded to washers on each end, which are welded to the splined stub shafts.

I also considered a new box, pitman, quicker style bracket to quicken and align pivots for center steering location, coupler flanges, and rag, but it would have cost just as much. Another option was a center tapped rack for considerably more money, but some I’ve seen have no boots and others have bad press about slop. The 14 inch rack for the same price has a lower ratio for quicker steering (¾ turn each direction), same travel, but wider is not an improvement.
The outer tie rod attachment needs to be raised anyway for the tie rods to be out of the footwell. I will likely reduce the length of the toe link arm on the spindle in the process since this rack has 2.25 inches of travel in each direction, one full turn in each direction.

Headlight(s). Considering 4666 (4x6 rectangular dual bulb) in a common single bulb 4652/4651 bucket, an 8902 (6” round dual bulb motorcycle) or Hella’s new 90mm dual bulb. All are DOT approved and embossed. Technically per the rule, a single low beam should be on the center line but many bikes have separate high and low singles, equidistant to the centerline. They are all wider than advertised with the adjuster mounting flanges. The idea is recessed ahead of the windscreen, with a fiberglass panel over the area that also covers the top of the radiator, setup for a flat plexi- glass cover later, flush with and the same angle as the windscreen.

The hot air plastic welder works but it doesn’t flow out due to skin tension, so a roller is needed to flatten the area. A large socket works well to flatten, but can create other problems. I'll take some pics once I give up on making it look good. Not there yet.

Neat project. I am interested in how this will come out. At one time I considered the Geo Metro/Briggs and Stratten diesel conversion but bought a VW Golf TDI instead.
Howard

The wooden mockup is brilliant... and those are MAD MSpaint skillz.

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Thanks for the support guys.

I found a reverse trike powered by a briggs mower electric motor and 36 volt battery that went 89 mph on the salt. I'd be more than satisified with that "Georgia super speeder ticket" top speed. On second thought, I think I'll lower the bar a bit. No way I could be this aero or light, but I have 3 times the power, so we'll see.
http://explodingdinosaurs.com/saltflats ... ectrathon/


I found the Shrike has rusted out after many, many years. I emailed Norton about the size and wall thickness he used:
http://unitas.lunarpages.com/~norton2/shrike.htm

I'm using 1.5 dom in .083 and .065 for the larger tubes, comparable to imca size and wall requirments for sprints.

I also found this tandem electric out of Oregon, which has a lot of simularities except for the number of seats, the suspension, the height, the engine, etc:http://www.youtube.com/user/Arcimoto/videos

I've been working on everything as parts make themselves available.

On the steering, the ujoints with 5/8-36 female spline require m8-1.25 bolts. Although marketed for vw dune buggies, the rack seems designed for single seat karts and buggies, because the rod ends are only 5/16. The label is Latest Rage and it is made in Taiwan, but the rack it self has no slop at all and seems very well made except for the size of the rod ends.

I drilled the 5/16 ends out to 7/16-20 to hang .125" strip U-brackets to mount 1/2-20 rod ends. I purchased the rod ends from Mcmaster, and they are QA1 PTFE/kevlar/chromeloy, a nice upgrade to 16,000 from the 2,500 or so 5/16 bronze bush rod ends. The spindle end needs to be raised several inches so the tie rods will clear the footwell at full droop.

The steering column was going to be 1.5, 14ga dom with 3/4 by 1-3/8 bearings, but in trying to find bearings with set screws and flanges, I ordered 3/4 by 1.850, so I picked up a 1-7/8 tail pipe from a local parts store to use as the column.

I'm making a hanging reverse master brake pedal assembly with roller bearings. Same issue as above, so instead of 1.5 tube housing, it is 1-7/8 tube. The bearings are for kart axles, sealed, with set screws, snap rings as a flange, and grease ports, and cost about $5 each.


I’ve considered many options for turn signals.
I could use a timer circuit that shuts off after so many seconds, but I’ve used those on bikes and it is annoying for it to stay on too long yet shut off too soon at the next left turn at an intersection. There are some that have a brake switch input, to delay the timer until the driver releases the pedal, but those are much more expensive than a 555 timer kit. Even a timer kit needs a 555 and relay for each side, so it adds up.
The dus-100 module used on older bikes is cheap, but reliability is suspect due to the age of the internal capacitor.
I could use a 3 position toggle mounted sideways, and just cut them off manually.
There are cheap add-on turn signal switches that do not self-cancel, so basically a toggle on the column.
There used to be self-cancelling add-ons that clamped to the column and look just like the standard type, but they have a window in the base that allows a rubber wheel to contact the steering shaft inside the column when the lever is pulled. Once the shaft rotates a few degrees, the wheel snaps back in and cancels the turn signal. Those are hard to find and not normally cheap.

I chose new turn signal and wiper stalk assemblies to fit a 95 jetta, with a wiper motor, transmission, arms, and blades from a 2010 beetle and a new intermittent relay. These parts include flash to pass and hazard switches. No plugs yet and everything hasn't come in yet. The self canceling flange is normally located on the back of the wheel mounting boss on a vw. A 3/4" long section of a 1.5" tube is about right. It will mount to the weld boss for the quick release hub. I don't have connectors for the these parts, so it is a trip to the yard or the dealer for the housings. The actual terminals are the expensive part.

The wiper is pantograph, with the two beetle spindles side by side with a pivot link at the top to hang the blade(s) from. The sweep range will be adjusted with motor arm length and the park position is determined by the motor internal contact (which I believe can be reclocked), the motor arm (which could be cut and reclocked), and the mounting clock angle of the motor. As for parking on the left or right, the motor arm can be flipped with some fabrication.

I purchased seven, 1.5” x .065” x 7.5’ from Summit racing for about $90 with tax. I chose that length because it would fit in my car, and shipping would have been very expensive. I'll need more 14 ga from my local supplier.

I picked up a hbf tube notcher and pipe bender yesterday. I also made a notching gauge from cardboard, gas welding rods, and duct tape for friction against the rods. One size fits all. Just wrap the tube at the right angle, slide the rods toward the joint, slide the cardboard back to align the longest rod witht eh end of the tube, then mark the tube for cutting. I first looked online for the pipe gauge tool, and found it cost about $50 for one size. Ridiculous.

I dismantled my wood frame after making some measurements to draw out in mspaint, reused the 2x6s for stringers, put them as fart apart as possible for clearance for welding then leveled, cross braced with deck screws, then made tube hangers away from the corners and raised a few more inches for easier access. Building the front first, still moving parts about on the rear. I want to leave room to slide the seat back to make it easier to get in and out around the front hoop, but the spitfire tracks don't slide that far and I need to be able to slide it forward from my driving position, so I will likely reduce the wheel base by the amount of space behind the seat.

05/27/13, Update on the hbf notcher and pipe bender. I was debating on whether the bender would be used enough to justify $100 and if I could get any decent bends out of it, but I'm glad I bought it. My solution is different from the other solutions I've seen on youtube.

Generally speaking, thicker walled material in smaller diameters are easier to bend without kinking. I'm bending 1.5 in .083 and .065, so very thin stuff and bigger OD than we usually use. Thinner material allows one to use dies for smaller tube without damaging the die from loading the flanges.

For 1.5 in the thicknesses above, use a 1 inch die for 3/4 of the bend. This will egg shape the tube at the bend. For the last 1/4 of the bend, use the 1-1/4 die, which actually fits a 1-1/2 tube. The tube will flatten at the apex of the bend, but it should only be enough to make it round again, rather than egg shaped. I also used the second hole from the center for the rollers, and the bends were less than 45 degrees.

On the notcher, I had to use washers between the clamp and drill frame to get a reasonably centered cut, but other wise, it has been a great time saver. I picked up two standard bimetal hole saws(not hbf saws) to fit the threaded arbor, but one saw is holding up well. Cutting fluid helps and is available in the plumbing department of home improvement stores.

I ran out of 14 ga tube needed the top rails, side bars, and rear hoop, but it is starting to look like a "car".

Progress.

Had to make sure the side windows would fit before fitting the upper tubes. For the door, I have a flush, keylock trigger latch to control a small (narrow cross section) bear claw latch. The windows are safety glass but are also tinted, so it may be an issue at inspection. Fortunately, they are not required at the time of inspection.

Seat mounts were a challenge to be as low as possible, have hardware access, and not have the bolts through the floor or welding the bolts to a bracket. Floor will be smooth all the way back.

I made fuel tank and battery tray, with rod bent into J-bolts, with bolts welded on to that for a battery hold down. I wanted a battery mount that would fit multiple sizes. Last time I made one for a specific size, they discontinued it. Fuel tank will get a strap over the top also, and there will be a steel divider between battery and tank, also necessary since the battery can rock toward the tank on the j-bolts.

I have all of the wiper system now. Made a trip to the salvage yard for all the connectors and chose two drivers side wiper arms, since they have a longer blade and arm.

Also picked up a small open glove box/tray with power outlet and rocker switch for rear defroster from the center console of a late model neon.

Coming along nicely.

FYI, if you have a short vertical between the battery and tank, say 1" tall to keep the battery from sliding into the tank, and move the chassis end of the "J" to ~ the center of the battery, then the battery will not be able to tip into the tank.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE

Thanks for the tip tip. I'm using a 26r for now. 450cca should be plenty for this little diesel.

06/16/2013 update.
Built fuel tank straps from 3/4 x 1/8 strip. Rolled the ends into a loop for a 3/8 bolt, used a long shank 3/8 bolt to make two pins for locating strap ends. Use the head for one, welded a washer to the other. Drilled for cotter pins. The straps come together under the handle. The forward strap had to be short enough to clear the tank when removing the tank and the strap had to be removable from the rear.

Finished the brake pedal and pushrod. The pedal is .050 sheet with 3/4" square tubes as pad spacers. The pad is rubber cut from a ryder mud flap, with pop rivets countersunk into the pad. The pushrod is a 3/8 male rod end, jamb nut, nut welded into 3/4 tube long enough to clear rod end shank when bottomed out in the nut, 3/8 bolt with a long shank and the head welded into the 3/4 tube, with the end cut off and rounded into a ball to fit the master cylinder pushrod cup. Ratio is 6:1; slightly more than the original at about 5.8:1.

Added 1.5" angle for the firewall to sidewall transition. Considered tube but it would not fit due to battery clamp.

Since the eventual bodywork will taper into the door area, it will have to be a gullwing door for clearance.

06/23/2013, Mounted rack over brake pedal, built steering column, fabbed turn signal and wiper control mount from .050 sheet, made column mount. Still need to make cam to cancel turn signal and weld intermediate steering shaft between joints. Unlike most builds, the rack is fixed first and the tie rod attachment points on the spindles will be located as necessary.