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PostPosted: February 18, 2018, 3:41 pm 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
What HP did you guys make on the dyno. I've seen probably 100 S2000s on the dyno and they all seem to make between 202-220 whp depending upon the dyno.

Tuning doesn't seem to get much peak HP on the S2000 as it comes pretty well maxed out from the factory. It takes cams or forced induction to make much difference other than fattening the power curve.

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PostPosted: February 18, 2018, 4:28 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
What HP did you guys make on the dyno. I've seen probably 100 S2000s on the dyno and they all seem to make between 202-220 whp depending upon the dyno.

Tuning doesn't seem to get much peak HP on the S2000 as it comes pretty well maxed out from the factory. It takes cams or forced induction to make much difference other than fattening the power curve.


My peak was 182whp and Steven's S2000 was 184whp. Here are a couple of other pretty much stock 2wd cars for reference:

Car / Factory HP / Dyno WHP
2002 M3 / 338hp / 243whp
2003 350Z / 287hp / 215whp
2004 S60 T5 / 247hp / 186whp
2000 S2000 / 237hp / 184whp
2015 Fiesta ST / 180hp / 147whp


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PostPosted: February 19, 2018, 12:36 am 
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Gosh no matter the dyno I've never seen an S dyno less than 199.xx.

I realize that different dyno systems have different ratings and that the main use for the dyno is a reference point. You try to use the same dyno with same temp conditions so as to make a valid comparison of gains or losses. But that's quite a bit lower than I'd expect. I wonder if he had small issues.

I was looking back through some old info of mine and it's actually closer to 150 S2000s I've seen dyno'd and even more if you count the ones that have been dyno'd several times as we did work on them. In other words it was close to 150 different cars, not 150 dyno runs.

The advantage your engine has is that it's easier and cheaper to add boost so it depends upon what your goals are as to which one is best. BUT, I prefer 9,000 rpm. It's exciting.

Yours has another advantage, it comes with a FWD transmission and the S2000 motor has to be adapted to one.

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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 7:06 pm 
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Another major project on the car I just completed was to upgrade the cooling system. The front vent, ducting, and damming I made last year was a huge improvement, and seemed totally adequate for the street and autocross. But when I got it on the track in the summer heat (30*C) it just couldn't keep up for a full 20 minute session. Since then I reduced the antifreeze content and added some water wetter to help, but I think i've now fixed it for good. I'm limited for space up front so a larger rad wasn't in the cards. I played around with ideas for mounting additional coolers in the back, and the only option that really seemed to work well for routing, placement, and airflow was to add some side pods in front of the rear wheels.

The H22 comes stock with oil squirters to cool the pistons, and an oil-water heat exchanger that goes between the block and the oil filter. My idea was to remove the stock heat exchanger and replace it with a thermostatic sandwich plate so I could send the oil off to it's own dedicated cooler instead further taxing the cooling system. Another bonus would be the increased oil capacity. The Mishimoto sandwich plate I went with worked out nicely as it has a built in changeable thermostat, and a place to put a temp sensor pre or post cooler (I have mine pre cooler). The coolant lines that used to go to the old sandwich plate now also run to their own cooler on the other side of the car.

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For the coolers I went with a pair of Derale 15865's. They're a -10AN 25 row cooler that comes with a shrouded fan, and are advertised at 46,000 BTU's/Hour. The oil cooler fan has it's own manual switch, and the fan for the auxillary cooler is tied in to the rad fan control, but also now has a manual override switch. Overall between the two additional coolers it's a 75% increase in cooling core volume so I think it should be good for even the hottest days at the track.

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Last edited by Zac88GT on December 8, 2019, 3:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 8:37 pm 
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I had a couple ideas for the scoops to cover the coolers so I started messing around with some cardboard. I wanted to keep them relatively easy to make, and match the rest of the curves and angles of the car. I also wanted to keep them inboard of the rear tires to avoid hitting cones, and as short as possible to avoid interfering with the ingress/egress of the cockpit. After I was happy with the general shape I thought I'd mock it up in SolidWorks and see what they looked like in body color.

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I made them using a similar construction method as I used for the hood. I started with a wood frame that I could lightly glue some foam panels to, and then shaped the corners. I really like the 2" radius that I used in the SolidWorks model, but to tuck the scoop in as much as possible I had to reduce that to 1". It looks a little boxy, but also more closely matches the radii of the fenders and frame tubes so maybe it's not so bad. When I made the hood I used 3 layers of fiberglass on the top and 2 layers on the bottom and it came out bombproof. So, this time I used 2 on the outside and 1 on the inside, with a little extra at the leading edge to take abuse from cones. They feel really strong still and I don't think they'll have any issues with cones, but I don't know how well they will hold up if somebody accidentally stands on them when getting out of the car. I also spent a little more time with filler and sanding the outside so the overall finish came out much nicer than the previous parts I've made. The finishing touch was adding some ABS mesh grills to the fronts and rears to help protect the coolers from flying rocks.

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Last edited by Zac88GT on December 8, 2019, 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 9:07 pm 
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Stellar work there, sir!


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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 9:21 pm 
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How did you selectively leave the foam reinforcements on there and get the rest so clean? More details on your fiberglass process would be awesome, looks amazing!

Thanks,
Alex


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PostPosted: February 25, 2018, 6:32 pm 
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ajmacdon wrote:
How did you selectively leave the foam reinforcements on there and get the rest so clean? More details on your fiberglass process would be awesome, looks amazing!

Thanks,
Alex


Thanks! My process was basically as follows:

1. Create a wood frame that was oversized in the areas/edges that would require final trimming but 1/2" undersize in width and height to account for the thickness of the foam. I also had to make sure I could disassemble it from the inside.
2. Lightly glue the 1/2" insulation foam down with some spray contact adhesive and shape the radius edges using a long board with 40/80 grit sandpaper.
3. Layup the outer fiberglass layers.
4. Disassemble the wood frame and gently separate the plywood from the foam. This is were it really pays of to use the glue sparingly.
5. Mark out and remove the areas of foam that I needed. This was all of the finished edges, anywhere bolts pass through, and anywhere I needed extra clearance for the frame that holds the coolers. I used a utility knife to cut along the lines and then cut in between the foam and fiberglass to remove the bulk of it. 40 grit sandpaper makes quick work of any leftover bits and cleans up the now exposed fiberglass.
6. Feather the foam edges using the utility knife and 80 grit sand paper.
7. Layup the inside fiberglass layer. Because this increases the stiffness so much you need to make sure that the part isn't distorted when curing. For the hood I had to make a cradle to support it from underneath and hold the exact shape. For these scoops I put a light elasticated cord around the outside and a cardboard brace inside to hold the top and bottom the correct distance apart. You can put packing tape over the edges of the cardboard so it doesn't soak up any resin or stick to it afterwards.
8. Trim all the edges to fit.
9. Filler, sand, repeat until happy or you just can't take working with fiberglass/body filler any more.
10. Paint and wrap in vinyl

Page 7 has some good step by step pictures of when I made the hood.


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PostPosted: March 10, 2018, 10:35 am 
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Very nice moldless composite work.. your turn around time must be very quick vs plug/mold/part method.

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PostPosted: March 10, 2018, 12:40 pm 
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Really nice looking buid!


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PostPosted: March 11, 2018, 12:16 pm 
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airframefixer wrote:
Very nice moldless composite work.. your turn around time must be very quick vs plug/mold/part method.


Thanks, that means a lot to me. The level of quality in your build is just phenomenal.

The turn around time is pretty quick. It took me about a week and a half to make these but I was only working on them for an hour before work and an hour after. I figure with curing times and what not I could have probably made them in 4 days, possibly over a long weekend.


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PostPosted: April 25, 2018, 9:42 pm 
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Location: Upstate NY
I haven't checked in a while and have missed your efforts. These side pod rads are awesome! Nice work!


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PostPosted: June 30, 2019, 7:28 am 
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Love this build thread. Any updates?

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PostPosted: September 1, 2019, 4:05 pm 
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Long time no update. Here go's attempt 2 (first one got erased when I tried to attach picture :( ). Biggest and best update is I had a baby boy! Needless to say priorities and financials have changed so progress on the car has slowed drastically. Worst update is I got hit by a truck on my motorcycle last year and shattered my pelvis. More or less back to normal activities, but it was pretty rough for a while. I have still managed to make it out the the track a few times and still autocross here and there though, so I do have stuff to report on.

Made a new chin mount for my gopro. It does a great job of giving a good POV view.


New coolers and scoops work great! Coolant temps stabilize around 90-95*C and oil temps are around 100-105*C during sustained track use so that's awesome. Rear brakes started to fade after half a dozen really hard laps or so. I upgraded the 9" Miata rotors to the 10" 1.8L ones and changed from Hawk HP+ pads to Hawk Street Race. Made a substantial difference but the rears still start to fade. Next up is to shift the bias a little more to the front, add ducting to direct airflow at the solid rear rotors, and change out the fluid to some Motul RBF660 that I picked up.

Engine runs great but didn't pick up as much power from the mods as I had hoped. It averaged 179whp on the local dyno before, and is now at 192whp (I had hoped to break 200). The cams are supposed to make peak power around 7500 and have huge increases in mid range, but I found slight losses in low and mid range and the power just kept climbing all the way to the rev limiter at 8500 without plateauing. I didn't have a chance to do any cam timing tuning on the dyno so I suspect that in combination with my custom manifold are responsible for the shape of the power curve. Afterwards I did some road data logging and tried all different cam settings and found the exhaust was bang on but advancing the intake 2 more degrees resulted in better overall acceleration throughout the rpm range.

The BFG Rival S tires were worn out so I started shopping for replacements. Ideally I wanted the new Rival S 1.5 but settled on Hankook RS4's in 225/45R15 and 245/40R15 because they were half the price. The RS4's are really nice tires and look like they're going to last a long time, but they're not even in the same league as Rivals or RE71R's in terms of grip and speed. My lap times increased by 3 seconds at VIMC from 1:20 to 1:23. Although, still fast enough to reel in this Maclaren 650S.
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Here's a side by side comparison of Rivals S tires vs RS4's


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PostPosted: February 26, 2020, 4:26 pm 
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I've made a bit more progress on the car lately. The Corbeau seats have a metal bar running across the middle of the back where the upholstery attaches. This bar happens to be right where my back naturally leaves the seat back and lines up directly with one of my vertebrae giving me a bruise every time I go out racing. I cut out the bar and welded in a metal pan on the backside of the seat frame and added some additional padding. The seat is much more comfortable now.

Another minor annoyance I've corrected is the seat belt harnesses. When there is no tension on the seat belt, the mounts vibrate and rattle. I added o-rings to take up the slack and prevent the rattling while still allowing the belt mount to pivot.

The major task for this winter was to redesign the roll bar. There are a few events I want to participate in this year that require an SCCA compliant roll bar which my original design was not. The original was marginally tall enough, too thin of wall thickness, and the main hoops were 3 pieces welded together rather than one continuous piece. The new bar is 2.5" taller and made from 1.5" x .095" tube. For the design I pretty much just followed the Spec Racer At-om / Miata Hard Dog design with the addition of rolling the top of the main hoop to better match the aesthetics of the car. I think it turned out relatively well, and will better serve it's purpose which is what counts.

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