LocostUSA.com

Hi Chuck-
Uhhhh... I don't remember where I got it, but... well...

OK, I was wrong. Sorry...

However, "metal fume fever" doesn't sound like something I would wish on somebody, so maybe it's just as well if our friend doesn't weld galvanized stuff, at least without lotsa ventilation.

Thanks for straightening us out. (Us, as in, me...)

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

No problem. I have heard that many times over the years as anecdotal stories and , for a long time, believed it myself. Similar to a recent revalation to me. I had always thought that Target, the dept store, was French owned. And I had always passed that on to others. Until recently I 'Snoped' a mass Internet e-mail story about boycotting them. What I found at Snopes.com and many other places was that Target is a USA based company. Always has been. You could have knocked me over. Up till then, I was convinced that they were Frech owned.

We all continue to learn, no matter what age we are. I grew up in the era of "Never trust anyone over 30". I find myself in that strange area of life where I am nearing double that magical number. I now check many of my early "learned facts" and find I need to make an occasional adjustment in some of my long held "truths" as time progresses. (Sure wish the "view more smilies" was working)

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Totally "Off-Topic"...
I've heard Target pronounced "Tar-Jhay" as if it were French, but never heard the "French owned" thing. It's amazing to me the number of "urban myths" that have propagated via the "Electronic Information Age"... Hard to tell the BS from the truth, isn't it?

Again, thanks for the info on galvanized/welding!

OK, let's get back to building this li'l electro-runabout...

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I've always blasted the coating off before (TIG) welding. No fumes and makes for better looking (and probably stronger) welds.

Interesting project!

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-Keith

Hi Nate,

Cool trike!

Check out the hubs on Harbor Freight's fire wood cart, which use an axle closer to 25mm. Sticker price is high but they do go on sale, or atleast they used to.
If you search for firewood cart, the discussion will probably come up.

I've been working on my trike too.

Steve

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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
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Thanks guys. Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F, I like the trike. I look forward to seeing how someone with more experience builds a low powered trike.

I know my axles aren't optimal, but nothing on the cart is. The more I work, the more shortcomings I find, but such is life, and the next one will be better. Right now I just have to get this thing on the road.

Today's update:
The rear wheel has been attached, by a rigid single-sided arm. While there was going to be a double sided suspended arm, I switched to single-sided after realizing the complexity of mounting a 6 inch hub with an 8 inch tire (And being able to remove the wheel). While I could have used spacers and a longer axle, I felt a single-sided connection was a simpler solution. After this change was made though, I realized that suspending the single sided arm was more complex than I had hoped, so to save myself the trouble of this, purchasing a shock, and tensioning the chain, I decided to go rigid. I hope I do not regret this decision.



Secondly, I have done away with the weak connections between the front axles and the ball joints. Instead, I simply welded them together, which should be stronger and which resolved my issue of kingpin inclination I had previously. The new connections give close to no scrub.



Next to come are the upper arms, which I will be working on later today. Although I am nearing completion, I am already starting to dream of my next one, which is more than slightly worrying.

I predict that cracks will develop in the chassis after a few bumps are hit due to no suspension and/or insufficient supports.

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Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

That may be, but I have more faith. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a top speed of 35 and a weight of about 600lbs (Including driver), this thing will have 5% of the kinetic energy of a 3000lb passenger car going 70 on the freeway. To me, this sounds like it will be under much less stress.

Are the top arms going to bolt to the top of that balljoint thread that you welded the axles to?

It still looks breaky to me. Curious to see how it turns out!

Based on the numerous concerns, I am considering changing my design. Without adding considerably to the weight or budget, does anyone have any suggestions for a stronger design?

Suggestions. ..

Some sort of suspension, give it a way to distribute and absorb the loads.
Perhaps some sort of basic spindle, the bearings can be tightened from one side easily enough and a 9/16" shaft should be able to handle a fair amount.
Take a look at the suspension on some of the econobox cars like an early Taurus or Escort for ideas, very simple and light. Or maybe a Fiat 850
Stop by the local pick and pull to see whats there for dead motorcycles with single sided swingarms. Sure they'll be 7# and up but you could maybe add some lightness with holes? Maybe something off of a scooter?

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

Use the front forks from two bicycles. You will find that the fork bearing cups will fit into a short lengths of ordinary water pipe. With luck maybe you can find front forks with a spring system as part of the fork.

Another idea, look at the front end of a gokart. Adapt it to bike wheels. (Anyone want to continue the "solid front axle" discussion?)

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"My junk is organized. At least is was when I put it wherever it is." -olrowdy
Completed building GSXR1000 CMC7, "Locouki"
Website: http://projekt.com/locouki/

If you are still planing on a front tire with a profile like the one shown, I see no reason to use a double control arm setup. A single arm with a pivot end in only one plane rather than a ball joint would be required. It is not like you'll need camber gain to keep the tire in contact with the ground.

2nd) Have you looked into the elastomeric trailer hubs with built in rubber springing? it would keep the rear design rather simple and still give some suspension travel.

You really don't have to scrap everything.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks for the suggestions everybody. To clarify, I am mostly thinking about the front right now. I attempted the upper A-arms today, and they did not turn out well. The bearings I got were too small (3/8"), and the lower section is starting to look fragile to me too. I am searching for an idea that will allow me to connect to the axle on both sides of the wheel. I weighed the project today, and it is 117 lbs on back and 75 lbs on the front. The front will take another 220 lbs of batteries and the back will take 140 lbs of driver. In total, I estimate about 275 lbs on the back and 150 lbs on each of the front wheels. This weight figure excludes suspended bicycle forks, since they are made for 180 lb peoples with 40% front weight distribution, or just under 75 lbs. I did have one crazy idea, which was to use a motorcycle fork with a car tire (flat profile) on front, but I realize this is most certainly crazy.

Are my goals impossible? Do I need to move up to car parts?

Sorry for my lack of knowledge, by the way.

Don't discount the bicycle fork idea. They may normally see a static load of around 75lb as you suggest, but they are designed for far more as they have to withstand a lot of abuse like stoppies, endos, hitting hard rocks. Of course, I am talking mountain bike usage here, or if you need smaller wheels, BMX stuff should be pretty strong. Also, your vehicle isn't likely to be doing many tricks so it will only really see static and light cornering loads, plus the occasional pot-hole depending where you drive it. If you are using mostly regenerative braking on the back wheel, then you won't see regular braking forces on the front forks either. However, you would still need emergency brakes, or something to hold you still so you would still need front brakes so there could still be 'emergency' braking forces involved, and as we all know, it's the emergency situations when things break from braking . If the springing works out OK, front shocks from a mountain bike would probably be sweet.

I would definitely go down that route before moving up to motorbike or car parts.