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PostPosted: January 30, 2012, 11:53 am 
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kingkyle wrote:
BB69 wrote:
As for your fuel tank location, it has the disadvantage of being right next you and full of lots of very flammable liquid. You can add some structure, but the weight starts adding up quickly.

In my car, I started with an 8 gallon cell right behind the passenger seat. I couldn't run a full 20 minute session at the track after putting the turbo on. The tank wasn't empty, but the fuel sloshed around enough that I was picking up air. That tank was pretty flat.

I added a 15 gallon tank and located it next to the engine on the driver's side, right behind the driver's seat. I used a heatshield between the engine and tank, and a firewall between the tank and seat. I never removed the 8 gallon tank. I just put in a whole new fuel system and then bought a Y fitting and two one way valves. Now, I can run off either tank, and then using a relay, I can switch tanks/systems in the middle of a run. It gives me a lot of flexibility in case a pump fails and I don't have to worry about fuel transfer from one tank to the other. The 15 gallon tank is tall and narrow and doesn't have near the sloshing problems of the short, flat tank. The downside is the extra weight and cost of two complete fuel systems.

Ken


Hey Ken,

Yeah I figured 15 gal would be right. Any less would create issues. I do want to keep it simple with one fuel system. If I do run the long thin cell on the side of me, it will be fully inclosed. It will be in the "side pod" I framed out yesterday. I'm thinking about running a full weight battery and any other parts in the opposite side pod to balance the weight as much as possible.

What 15 gal fuel cell do you run?


I'm using a basic aluminum cell from RCI. I also bought some fuel cell foam and stuffed the lower half of the tank with it.

Ken


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 10:21 am 
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[/quote]

I'm using a basic aluminum cell from RCI. I also bought some fuel cell foam and stuffed the lower half of the tank with it.

Ken[/quote]

Thats the cell I'm thinking about using in the side pod. Hows the pickup with the foam stuffed in?


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 10:28 am 
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So.... I'm really considering running my radiator in my right side pod rather then in the front. If I create a side scoop feeding the tunnel and also draw air from the top of the side pod do you think I'll get enough cooling?

It would be great to offset the weight of my fuel cell with the weight of the radiator. I think I've seen a few guys do this with the Ultima GTR, i'm scared i'm going to run into issues. I've noticed the LS6/LS1 is a pretty easy motor to cool. If I can make it work the payoff will be huge with my aerodynamics of the car.


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 10:47 am 
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Yo Kyle-
All the following is IMHO, see disclaimer:
First question is, is the sidepod big enough to house the radiator that fits the engine? I mean, the OEM stock rad that would have come with the car. If you downsize the rad, then all bets are off.

The airflow along the side of the sidepod can do a good job of pulling air out of the sidepod via chimney effect. With a scoop on top or on the side to push air into the rad, and a fan blowing air thru it, the opening on the side would extract air, making for good flow.

For a rough estimate, measure the grill openings of a Vette (or whatever car uses that same engine, right?) and figure you need at least that much area in your inlet scoop. (or more!) If you can do that, and provide suitable exit opening(s), it should work just fine.

A big NACA duct on top of the 'pod would look cool as all hell, too!

Standard disclaimer *I ain't no engineer!*
:cheers:

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 1:36 pm 
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kingkyle wrote:


I'm using a basic aluminum cell from RCI. I also bought some fuel cell foam and stuffed the lower half of the tank with it.

Ken[/quote]

Thats the cell I'm thinking about using in the side pod. Hows the pickup with the foam stuffed in?[/quote]

The pickup is a straight piece of aluminum tubing that ends just above the floor of the tank. The foam is stuffed around it and doesn't seem to affect the pickup at all.

As for your radiator, when I had mine mounted in front the engine ran right on the thermostat. I originally was running without a t-stat and the engine would barely get to 150 F. Of course, I had a 3" thick radiator and it was perfectly vertical with no obstructions. Now I am running with the radiator mounted above the engine at a pretty good forward angle. I have a fan pulling air through the radiator. The engine now gets to about 250 F in turbocharged form. I think a side mounted radiator with a good fan and flow path will work just fine. I would recommend a separate oil cooler.

Ken


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 2:11 pm 
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I would recommend a separate oil cooler.


Good point, yes, an oil cooler would be a good idea!

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 2:57 pm 
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If you run a radiator for an automatic you can use the (internal to the radiator) transmission oil cooler rather like Ford does with an oil cooler located in the lower radiator hose on the P71 Crown Vic.

And just for everyone, here's where I've bought a lot of "stuff" for various cars I've worked on over the years, the prices are fairly decent for sheetmetal, radiators, etc. http://www.levangroup.com/

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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 5:40 pm 
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Be careful about a NACA duct on top of a side-pod, if the duct is in the wake of the front wheel. If you go back to the original papers on NACA ducts you'll find a couple of things. The ducts were first developed for jet engine intakes, but then saw broader use. Some of their advantage lies in the opening shape, which generates separation and vortices that ensure that the boundary layer gets ingested into the inlet, followed by free-stream flow.

The lessons include realization that those neat-looking molded GRP NACA dusts are but styling execrises which are unlikely to generate clean separation and vortices from the inlet sides, and rely more on pressure differential than boundary layer management. The NACA openings in the side windows of NASCAR car are good examples of how a NACA duct opening should be 'cut' in a surface. The second lesson is that it is important what sort of flow you put a NACA duct in - if the sidepod is deep enough that there is clean flow off the front wheel, fine - but if there is separated flow off the front wheel then any opening on top of the sidepod will likely be next to useless unless the exit of the ducting is somehow extracting air, and so drawing it into the opening on top of the pod.

Regardless, NACA ducts do look really neat!

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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 6:10 pm 
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I've decided against running the radiator in the side pod... The Ron Davis I bought doesnt fit right. I'm going to stick with the front mount.

I need to get creative on how to box it and skin it while keeping the profile clean.
Image


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 6:21 pm 
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I need to get creative on how to box it and skin it while keeping the profile clean.


Hmmm.... It's kinda tall... Can you move it back further in the frame, where the bodywork will be taller as well? Or... Angle it downward, closer to flat... Or.... Lean it the other way, a lot, and duct the air into the front/top side and out the back/bottom side??? Did any of that make sense? No? Good, my work is done here...

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 7:16 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
I need to get creative on how to box it and skin it while keeping the profile clean.


Hmmm.... It's kinda tall... Can you move it back further in the frame, where the bodywork will be taller as well? Or... Angle it downward, closer to flat... Or.... Lean it the other way, a lot, and duct the air into the front/top side and out the back/bottom side??? Did any of that make sense? No? Good, my work is done here...



haha yea i'm going to tilt it back further. I'm going to build a snout just like on the porsche 917/10. The snout on the 917 is around 6-8" tall and mine is 10". So yeah it needs to tilt back.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2012, 12:25 pm 
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kingkyle wrote:
Thats a really good idea. Drills never seem to produce the correct diameter holes.


Just out of curiosity, are you drilling these holes in a press or by hand?

Even when you account for the tolerances of a drilled hole, a 1/4" drill bit shouldn't be so far off that a pip pin won't engage.

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