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PostPosted: January 22, 2012, 7:21 pm 
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Obviously they must work, but they seem like the torques would break the bolt bosses on the normal engine that's not designed to be mounted that way.

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PostPosted: January 22, 2012, 11:37 pm 
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The bulkheads at the front and back of the motor are very strong. They are also designed for this load, at least at the back where the transmission connects. The motor have trouble with the mounts on the side which is basically the water jacket. On race cars you'll see they have radius arms connected to the engine sometimes to prevent over loading the standard mounts. The little radius arms will let the motor vibrate up and down but not twist around too much.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2012, 7:08 am 
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My original plan was to make traditional four bolt side mounts. Then tie in the center section of the chassis to the mounts. Since the last pics I've posted i've triangulated the rear section in a few places. Do you think this is a bad idea?


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PostPosted: January 23, 2012, 11:51 am 
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I think either method will work. Since you've already started welding, it seems your car is designed to go the way you've chosen. :)

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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 7:05 am 
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Few more pics.... I desined a quickly removable front clam/splitter section for easy on and off the trailer. My past 3 race cars were a nightmare getting on and off my open trailer so I've learned my lesson this time! The whole thing is held on with two 1/4" bolts. Plus I played around with some roll on rustoleum paint. I have to say I love it, Its easy to apply with no mess and you dont need a mask.
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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 7:27 am 
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My biggest issue right now is where to put my fuel cell. Two possible locations are right on the side of me using a 15 gal long and skinny cell. It would sit right outside the driver compartment. This is the easy way but the downside is weight distribution. I only want one fuel cell due to the headaches of bridging two cells together. I've learned this is not so easy with my Ultima GTR. The other option is to use a smaller 12 gal cell right behind the seat. This is more like a formula car setup. Its going to be a super tight fit and only leaves me with 12 gal.... Let me know what you guys think.

Pic of where the side fuel cell would fit.
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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 7:54 am 
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Quote:
a quickly removable front clam/splitter section for easy on and off the trailer. [Snip] The whole thing is held on with two 1/4" bolts.


Hey Kyle-
I had a similar idea for my car. I'm going to use these to hold the nose/splitter on, allowing quick "no tools" removal-
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1-4-Inch-Quick-Release-Pin-1-1-2-Inch-Grip,14824.html

Might work for your application as well.

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:cheers:

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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 8:04 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
a quickly removable front clam/splitter section for easy on and off the trailer. [Snip] The whole thing is held on with two 1/4" bolts.


Hey Kyle-
I had a similar idea for my car. I'm going to use these to hold the nose/splitter on, allowing quick "no tools" removal-
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1-4-Inch-Quick-Release-Pin-1-1-2-Inch-Grip,14824.html

Might work for your application as well.

My .02, but for you, "No Charge!"

:cheers:


Too funny, I just bought a bunch of them in different lengths for a few applications on my car. I love the design and they seem very rugged. Only problem is the little balls that grip are so tiny! My tollerences with my holes are not tight enough for the quick pin. I was so bummed when I tried to use them and the pulled right through my 1/4" holes :BH: I got a few from Mcmaster carr and a few from Speedway, they both use the same ultra tiny "grabbers" i'm searching for some with larger grabbers, i'll let you know if I find any.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 8:46 am 
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I have found that if you can find some tubing with the right I.D. for the fast pin it makes it a lot easier. Just weld the smaller ID tubing into or on the bracket or thru the tube in the correct location. The ID just requires a little clean up for the welding distortion and the pin will lock right in place. Dave W


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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 8:47 am 
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davew wrote:
I have found that if you can find some tubing with the right I.D. for the fast pin it makes it a lot easier. Just weld the smaller ID tubing into or on the bracket or thru the tube in the correct location. The ID just requires a little clean up for the welding distortion and the pin will lock right in place. Dave W


Thats a really good idea. Drills never seem to produce the correct diameter holes.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2012, 1:54 pm 
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As for your fuel tank location, it has the disadvantage of being right next you and full of lots of very flammable liquid. You can add some structure, but the weight starts adding up quickly.

In my car, I started with an 8 gallon cell right behind the passenger seat. I couldn't run a full 20 minute session at the track after putting the turbo on. The tank wasn't empty, but the fuel sloshed around enough that I was picking up air. That tank was pretty flat.

I added a 15 gallon tank and located it next to the engine on the driver's side, right behind the driver's seat. I used a heatshield between the engine and tank, and a firewall between the tank and seat. I never removed the 8 gallon tank. I just put in a whole new fuel system and then bought a Y fitting and two one way valves. Now, I can run off either tank, and then using a relay, I can switch tanks/systems in the middle of a run. It gives me a lot of flexibility in case a pump fails and I don't have to worry about fuel transfer from one tank to the other. The 15 gallon tank is tall and narrow and doesn't have near the sloshing problems of the short, flat tank. The downside is the extra weight and cost of two complete fuel systems.

Ken


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PostPosted: January 28, 2012, 4:40 am 
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King, is there a reason you are developing body work way before the car is even running let alone a full roller?


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PostPosted: January 30, 2012, 8:13 am 
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BB69 wrote:
As for your fuel tank location, it has the disadvantage of being right next you and full of lots of very flammable liquid. You can add some structure, but the weight starts adding up quickly.

In my car, I started with an 8 gallon cell right behind the passenger seat. I couldn't run a full 20 minute session at the track after putting the turbo on. The tank wasn't empty, but the fuel sloshed around enough that I was picking up air. That tank was pretty flat.

I added a 15 gallon tank and located it next to the engine on the driver's side, right behind the driver's seat. I used a heatshield between the engine and tank, and a firewall between the tank and seat. I never removed the 8 gallon tank. I just put in a whole new fuel system and then bought a Y fitting and two one way valves. Now, I can run off either tank, and then using a relay, I can switch tanks/systems in the middle of a run. It gives me a lot of flexibility in case a pump fails and I don't have to worry about fuel transfer from one tank to the other. The 15 gallon tank is tall and narrow and doesn't have near the sloshing problems of the short, flat tank. The downside is the extra weight and cost of two complete fuel systems.

Ken


Hey Ken,

Yeah I figured 15 gal would be right. Any less would create issues. I do want to keep it simple with one fuel system. If I do run the long thin cell on the side of me, it will be fully inclosed. It will be in the "side pod" I framed out yesterday. I'm thinking about running a full weight battery and any other parts in the opposite side pod to balance the weight as much as possible.

What 15 gal fuel cell do you run?


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PostPosted: January 30, 2012, 8:17 am 
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cheapracer wrote:
King, is there a reason you are developing body work way before the car is even running let alone a full roller?



I'm only doing some of the front clam body work for now. I need to for clearance issues with the radiator. The radiator is fixed and I need to box in the rad with aluminum half on the front clam and half on the rad it self. Thats the main reason, plus I'm working with stuff I have on-hand rather then just waiting for parts. If I had the drivetrain I would be working on that. As for framing out the side body work, that needs to be done now so I can mount all the necessary parts like the fuel cell and other things.


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PostPosted: January 30, 2012, 11:52 am 
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kingkyle wrote:
Thats a really good idea. Drills never seem to produce the correct diameter holes.

Drills usually drill oversize by a couple thousands....

What you really need is a reamer. Chucking reamers cut at the correct diameter, every time, and they make nice round holes too (they usually have 6 to 8 cutting flutes).

I'd suggest you'd want a .251" reamer for 1/4" pins. At that point you drill your holes, probably 1/64" undersize, then take out the last .015" with the reamer. Don't really want to make the reamer cut more than a 1/32" or so. Use a good lube on the reamer, and reasonably slow speed. Reamers are sized to ten-thousands, so you'd want a .2510" reamer, if that gives you an idea of their accuracy.

Enco has 14pc over under reamer sets for ~$75, covering sizes from 1/8" to 1/2". You can also buy them individually.

Making holes smaller is tough. You might be able to open your 1/4" holes up to 9/32" or 5/16" and get appropriate sized pins and pin holes that way.

JustDreamin


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