LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently December 11, 2017, 4:34 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 554 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 ... 37  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 14, 2012, 10:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Fabricated a cable guide to route the shifter cables under the alternator and around a bend. Turned out pretty nice looking.

But... I also ruined the hood......Earlier we had moved the gas tank forward in the car to accommodate the routing of the coolant lines. The gas tank inlet pipe thus did not line up with the preformed cutout in the hood. I had wanted the gas fill/inlet cap to be directly in-line with the gas tank's inlet pipe below so that there were no bends in the rubber coupling hose (and the two pipes would meet end to end). After drilling the hole and inserting the gas fill inlet cap and connecting the two pipes, it became obvious that due to the slope of the hood the cap is left sitting high. :( I may cut the bottom of the inlet pipe to shorten it, so that it's not so obvious. I would rather not refiberglass, drill out the preformed hole, and put a flexible gas house to connect the two. But I won't rule it out.


Attachments:
TR-82 (479)s.jpg
TR-82 (479)s.jpg [ 99.45 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (477)s.jpg
TR-82 (477)s.jpg [ 68.51 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (472)s.jpg
TR-82 (472)s.jpg [ 70.13 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (427)s.jpg
TR-82 (427)s.jpg [ 74.38 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 14, 2012, 10:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
While I dwell on the hood and wait for the shifter cables, I decided to let the fun begin.... with the wiring harness.

Definitely overwhelming at first. Now its starting to make a little sense.

What doesn't make sense is how many different connectors different manufactures place on the end of their wires...I'll probably be trimming a bunch off and replacing so that male & female ends match up.

Engine related wires will most likely be routed down the tunnel chase.
Rear tail light/brake wires be routed the through the tubular frame.
Dash & "steering column" wires will probably routed through the back of the console.
Some wires were eliminated from the harness (e.g., AC, power windows, dome light, etc... wont be needing these)


Attachments:
TR-82 (496)s.jpg
TR-82 (496)s.jpg [ 114.88 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (495)s.jpg
TR-82 (495)s.jpg [ 110.45 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (492)s.jpg
TR-82 (492)s.jpg [ 83.65 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (486)s.jpg
TR-82 (486)s.jpg [ 148.53 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
TR-82 (484)s.jpg
TR-82 (484)s.jpg [ 144.7 KiB | Viewed 1727 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 8:13 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
Posts: 1257
Location: Denver Co
I think this is the worst part of any build! Electrical! I am too mechanical for that stuff.... I can buy you beers to help me with mine!

Looking good man and I like the wires through the tubes idea

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 8:34 am 
Offline

Joined: March 16, 2008, 4:49 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Richmond Kentucky
Andy, I would put the filler back in the pocket, It takes into account the hood angle.
Mark where the coupler hits the tank and either add a bolt on flange and cap the other OR run the tank over to a welder and just have them move and tig it.
The new hole in the hood will be a snap for a body shop/painter. unless you guys were going to sand and paint yourselves?
PooK

_________________
dpook317@att.net


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 9:18 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 6732
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Quote:
unless you guys were going to sand and paint yourselves?

Attachment:
glitter boys.jpg
glitter boys.jpg [ 58.53 KiB | Viewed 1694 times ]

Yup, that's what they's gone and done... :mrgreen:

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 7:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Pook - Thanks for the advice. I'll probably do just that. I like the bolt-on flange & cap off concept (as it's something I can do myself). If I go the other route, what's the best way of removing the tank - through the top or bottom of the vehicle? And don't say bottom..as I have already rivetted the bottom..... :cry:

Gonzo - nice pic!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 15, 2012, 8:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: March 16, 2008, 4:49 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Richmond Kentucky
Top, remove the steering shaft lower section and the tank mount bolts, then lift!
You take out the two bolts at the rack (have to bend the safety tabs away from the bolt heads, flat blade screw driver works well) take out the pinch bolt at the lower steering U-joint (its splined so mark it for install) lift and slide it out of the joint.
PooK

_________________
dpook317@att.net


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 21, 2012, 10:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Having fun now.

Front section of car is 90 % done (not quite sure yet how to connect parking lights to turn signals - instructions aren't as clear as I had hoped). Tusk turn signal stalk is 100% wired up. Console gauges (water, oil, volts) are also at 100%. I assumed these would be simple but many more wires involved than I would have thought. Koso gauges, however, not yet installed. Ignition is 80% (wires aren't matching diagram).

Every wire going in or out of the console get's a quick disconnect so that the console can be readily moved without tools or cutting. This applies to the hood area as well. Various connections types have been used: blades, bullets, molex, splices, rings, etc.. Am trying to have all connections heat shrink wrapped to secure/protect the connection. Here are some pics.....


Attachments:
TR-82 (499)s.jpg
TR-82 (499)s.jpg [ 106.64 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (506)s.jpg
TR-82 (506)s.jpg [ 100.12 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (505)s.jpg
TR-82 (505)s.jpg [ 91.28 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (504)s.jpg
TR-82 (504)s.jpg [ 85.9 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (503)s.jpg
TR-82 (503)s.jpg [ 91.42 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (501)s.jpg
TR-82 (501)s.jpg [ 119.91 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (500)s.jpg
TR-82 (500)s.jpg [ 98.95 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
TR-82 (498)s.jpg
TR-82 (498)s.jpg [ 106.15 KiB | Viewed 1551 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 22, 2012, 11:40 am 
Offline
Always Moore!
User avatar

Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
Posts: 3894
Location: Fort Worth, TX
I would lose those quick taps and get some heat shrinkable butt splices. The quick taps eliminate almost all of the strain relief provided by the insulation.

If you buy a larger splice, you can tie three or more wires together at one splice. You just have to get the CAU (circular area unit) correct for the splice.

http://www.pinsandsockets.nl/circular_area_units.htm

For instance if you are trying to have two 20 gauge wires on the first side of the splice and one 20 gauge wire on the second, then the CAU of the first side would be 2 x 12 CAU (24 CAU) and 1 x 12 CAU (12 CAU) for the second. 16 gauge wire has a CAU of 24 - if you used a 14-16 gauge splice (24-38 CAU), you could have two 20 gauge wires on one side and it would safely crimp. The issue will be the side with only one 20 gauge wire - its CAU will still be 12 yet the splice will be for 24-38 CAU. If you strip off twice as much insulation as you normally would and fold the exposed conductor back onto its self, you can double the CAU and use the 14-16 gauge splice.

_________________
-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 22, 2012, 5:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Thanks for the advice. I do have heat shrinkable butt splices on hand. Was saving them for one on one splices,but I like the concept of multiple wires originating from the one splice. Seems much cleaner. I'll give it a shot. Thanks again.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 22, 2012, 5:28 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 4384
Location: West Chicago,IL
When you go to plug all those individual connectors together, try adding dielectric grade grease to reduce future oxidation. I'm a firm believer.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 22, 2012, 7:59 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Dielectric grease - good idea! Putting it on my shopping list.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 22, 2012, 11:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
Here's a question or two for you electrical engineering types:

EZ wiring harness instructions indicate that a fusible link should be placed on the solenoid power wire leading to the starter solenoid to protect the harness. It also indicates that I should install the alternator bypass wire from alternator to the solenoid because I have a 100 amp alternator. I am using the EZ wire harness, and this sounds simple enough but......

EZ2Wire's wiring harness instructions show a fusible link on the bypass going from alternator to the starter, but not the main power line to the starter solenoid.

EZ20 wiring harness instructions show a fusible link on the alternator power line and a fusbile link on the solenoid's power line. No bypass wire was discussed.

So I was wondering should I:
1) Follow EZ wiring harness instructions only, or
2) Add another fusible link to the alternator to solenoid bypass wire or
3) Add another fusible link to the alternator power wire, or
4) Do both 2 & 3 above?

Thanks, in advance, for any light you can shed on the topic.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 23, 2012, 12:51 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 20, 2011, 10:19 pm
Posts: 198
badermatic wrote:
Here's a question or two for you electrical engineering types:

EZ wiring harness instructions indicate that a fusible link should be placed on the solenoid power wire leading to the starter solenoid to protect the harness. It also indicates that I should install the alternator bypass wire from alternator to the solenoid because I have a 100 amp alternator. I am using the EZ wire harness, and this sounds simple enough but......

EZ2Wire's wiring harness instructions show a fusible link on the bypass going from alternator to the starter, but not the main power line to the starter solenoid.

EZ20 wiring harness instructions show a fusible link on the alternator power line and a fusbile link on the solenoid's power line. No bypass wire was discussed.

So I was wondering should I:
1) Follow EZ wiring harness instructions only, or
2) Add another fusible link to the alternator to solenoid bypass wire or
3) Add another fusible link to the alternator power wire, or
4) Do both 2 & 3 above?

Thanks, in advance, for any light you can shed on the topic.

I personally don't like fusible links. It's a chunk of wire that's designed to melt at a certain amp load and break the circuit. I don't know about you, but I don't really want melted insulation and hot bare wires in any vehicle I've built. GM (and others) test those kinds of things to make sure that the vehicle doesn't catch fire. I'm not willing to perform the test!

I'd recommend using an appropriately sized fuse (fuses, if you have more than 1 circuit). They make pretty good size fuses these days (175+ amps) for reasonable money.....

Just my $.02.

JustDreamin


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re: TR-82 Exo
PostPosted: October 25, 2012, 7:53 am 
Offline

Joined: October 24, 2011, 9:11 pm
Posts: 283
Location: Upstate NY
As per a.moore's advice went with some butt spices rather than the quick taps to make splices on a common ground wire for some dash buttons. Certainly looks much better. I did the same with some light power wires going to some dash buttons. I'm sold on the concept.

I'll also look into the fuses rather than the fusible links. Does it hurt to have fuses (or links) where they may not actually be needed?


Attachments:
TR-82 (509)s.jpg
TR-82 (509)s.jpg [ 66.48 KiB | Viewed 1339 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 554 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 ... 37  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY