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Hi folks,
Had a banner day at local car show last weekend. Not only did I win a random drawing (took home a lovely huge glass Octoberfest beer stein (shaped like a boot – ugly as sin ), and I won the 50/50 raffle (>$350 ), but I also brought home a trophy for the little TR-82 (no categories, judge’s choice ). Too bad these things only happen in threes. I tried playing the lotto on the way home, but my luck had definitely run out.

While driving to and from the show, I thought how nice it would be to have a water or soda in the car and a cup holder to hold it in place. The TR-82 doesn’t have any. After reviewing various standalone automotive and motorcycle cup holders available on ebay, I decided I would be better off constructing one. After thinking about the location for these it dawned on me that I could kill two birds with one stone. I would make a cover for the parking brake assembly and integrate the cup holders in the design.
Here are pics of my progress so far: Rough design, cardboard mock up, aluminum construction, aluminum prototype test fit.

Left to finish: Carbon fiber wrap and cup insert installation (I may wrap the inserts with a thermal blanket to provide extra insulation).

Make sure it's big enough for a 32 oz. Big Gulp.

Also a very easy cup holder is one on gimbals like for boats. Less chance of spillage on rough riding cars. There's only one little plate on the car till you need it and then you slide the cup holder over the plate.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

You could probably use cheap koozie sleeves for your inserts.

I think I knew her when I was in college...

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Good advice guys! For cupholder v1.0 I decided to simply stick with the plastic cups (no gimble and without the insulation). I'll try this out first...then modify as needed. Here are some pics of the final product.

Those oughta work! Nicely done.

_________________
Larry in Seattle

WARNING, WARNING, WARNING!!!
Do not pop the tab on that Coke can after spirted driving.
Do you know how much work it is to clean that sugary spray inside the cabin.
It goes every where
I've learned my lesson, only water or coffee. DaveW

Ahhhhh...yes. Good advice. I will heed that warning. There are lots of places on this car that are difficult to access.....

Hi folks,
I have been plagued for a very long time with loud squealing noise from either the fan belts or pulleys when the electric fans are turned on to cool the engine. Very embarrassing. I am posting my solution in the hopes that it will help someone else in this predicament.

Symptom: Very loud squealing when fans are initially turned on or when I slow down in and an around town. Sound dissipates after the car is thoroughly warmed up.

Remedy #1 – Cleaned belts and pulleys.
Rationale – I probably spilled coolant on the belts with all my cooling system issues earlier and belts are slipping.
Result – No apparent change.

Remedy # 2 – Retensioned the belt and pulleys.
Rationale – Belt is either too tight or too loose.
Result – Tried various configurations No apparent change.

Remedy #3 – Added a ground strap (4 AWG) from alternator to the engine cylinder head.
Rationale – Extra insurance that the alternator is well grounded. Recommended by Jegs if you have chrome coated case alternator. Alternator will not charge battery if not well grounded.
Result - No apparent change.

Remedy #3 – Added a ground wire (1/0 AWG) from the engine cylinder head to the battery (about 8 ft of wire).
Rationale – None was there before. I was using the steel chassis as the main ground conduit, but I have come to learn that steel only provides 20% of the conductivity of copper. Wanted to ensure that all wires are well grounded.
Result - No apparent change. But I am happy that I have a batter grounding system.

Remedy #4 – Increase the wire size on the positive side from 10 AWG to 6 AWG from the alternator to the starter solenoid (which then has a lead to the battery).
Rationale – I hadn’t spotted this before but Jegs literature for the alternator indicates that a minimum of 8 AWG is recommended for 100 amp alternators. Since it said minimum of 8 I figured I should go with 6.
Result – Success! Squealing is no longer apparent!

But – I am not done yet. Although I have resolved the squealing noise, I still have a 8ft length of 10 AWG wire from the starter solenoid (as the main power wire) leading back to the fuse box. I am guessing this should be increased in size, as well.

To work with what you have, I would replace the alternator pulley with one that has two grooves, is as large in OD as possible for maximum leverage and contact, and has the same groove spacing to be compatible with the other pulleys. Many pulleys are interchangeable between brands so just make sure the dims are correct. Here is the best one I could find that should work for you: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Bel ... 2379730862

Use two new, matching belts since they must be identical for even tension. Use cogged types rather than smooth on the inner surface for better grip. Replace when the belt has worn (narrowed) to where it sits significantly below the od of the pulley grooves. The deeper it sits, the less grip it has. Slipping cause’s uneven width along the length, causing the belt to loosen and tighten as it goes round. Dual belts should always be replaced together as a set.

Take the alternator to a tire shop and ask a tech to swap them out for you. If you want to do it yourself without air tools, buy a cheap, ½ drive, 6 point, deep socket to fit the nut, then weld a 1x.125”x8” steel strap to the side of the socket to act as a handle without covering the hole. Use the long end of an allen wrench through the socket to engage the shaft, then hold the short end with a piece of steel pipe or a box end wrench.

Alternately, you could swap for poly-v/flat belt pulleys (6 groove preferred) for more grip than 2 groove v belts. All the pulleys should have grooves for your application.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Hey MV8! Good to hear from you.

So I believe I have fixed the squealing noise load issue by increasing the wire gauge size from the alternator to the starter. I read somewhere that if the wire size was too small, it would restrict the flow of energy, and as a result would simulate extra load on the alternator. Because the pipe was too small the alternator had to try even harder when a higher amperage load (e.g., fans) was applied, leading to the squealing noise (or something like that). Unfortunately, I can’t find the reference. Anyway, the larger wire I installed seems to be working. I am thinking I also need to increase the wire size from the starter to the fuse box to further improve this situation if I were to have a higher amperage load.

I do like your idea of doubling the belts. That would ensure the alternator is generating max power with little or no slippage, right? I am using the notched v belt currently.

You’ve fixed whatever it may have been that caused the alternator to sense a low voltage at the stud. That could be many different things. While going up one size on a 2 foot wire helped, I do not believe it is the cause.

For the moment, the alt does not see much of a load so the grip is adequate but you want to be able to use the alternator’s capacity without belt damage. SCENARIO: You take a trip, maybe get some bad gas at a remote mom and pop (ground tanks often have water ), excessive cranking but it runs, great but alt sees low voltage, belt slips and gets loose, fails, water pump stops turning, overheat, call a tow truck and hope it didn’t blow a head gasket. Substitute bad gas for loose bat clamp, left lights on, etc.

I would not run the fan relay power feed through a fuse box unless the box was rated for more than the total amperage of everyhing in it. An isolated power distribution stud next to the battery (if front mounted) would be preferred, but you could run heavier gauge from the starter to the fuse box, then jumper off that with a 10-12ga to feed the fan relay through an inline 40a fuse. I can’t really tell what is going on exactly with your picture schematics.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

OK good advice. I do like the concept of the isolated distribution stud, and was thinking along similar lines. I could at least bring the larger wire closer to the fuse box (or boxes.) I was thinking it probably ought to have a 50 or 80 amp fuse to protect.


BTW - I have two fan circuits: one for the powerful Derale Fan (21 amps) and one for the moderate KMJ Fan (7 amp) and the two small CFR fans (2.8-8 amps each) See diagrams. I currently have a 30 amp fuse on the Derale circuit and a 20 amp fuse presiding over the 3 others. Now that i am thinking about it, i probably could use a larger amp fuse on this one circuit (but it hasn't "tripped" yet).
.

Well MV8. You were right. The embarrassing squeal came back as the engine rpms near idle (e.g., in crowded town intersections).
I am guessing the amperage issue wasn't the complete problem.
I had just put in heavier gauge wire (6 AWG) from the starter solenoid to a new junction box near the fuse box (and powered the fuse box from there) to see if that would help. Not really.
I am going to take a look at my situation and try the double pulley, two belt scenario you have suggested. Will let you know how it works out.

Sorry to hear that
No project is ever finished.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12