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PostPosted: January 6, 2016, 10:09 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Because of what's been written in several other threads, I've got the impression rivnuts are all bad, bad, bad. They seem like a very handy solution for sheet metal. It would be good to know that the ones you've used have held up well.

Holding up isn't the problem, Lonnie. I'm using the same McMaster-Carr rivnuts and they installed easily enough and keep everything tightly in place. However, I don't look forward to removing the bolts down the road. I had to do it a few times when I had the scuttle on and off the frame during the build, and each time it felt like they were squirming just a bit. I probably didn't torque any of the bolts more than 10 ft.-lbs.


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PostPosted: January 6, 2016, 10:49 pm 
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Of course YMMV but my experience with rivnuts was quite negative. They felt like they were set properly but would turn as soon as I put any, and I mean ANY torque on them. And were a b itch to remove.

Have a hardly used McC tool for anyone that wants it and will pay the postage.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2016, 11:42 pm 
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Location: Shawnee, Ks
Larry u have an email

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 12:21 am 
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Russ, I know it's a long distance from Shawnee to Seattle but I don't have an email in my inbox from you. Nor a PM on this forum.

I shall be looking for one.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 1:06 am 
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Rivnut tool spoke for.

Thanks Russ!

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PostPosted: January 7, 2016, 1:18 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
So, Rob, you're having a good experience with the rivnuts from McMaster-Carr? Because of what's been written in several other threads, I've got the impression rivnuts are all bad, bad, bad. They seem like a very handy solution for sheet metal. It would be good to know that the ones you've used have held up well.


Hey Lonnie, Like I'd mentioned, you've got to do your hole prep correctly - which basically means don't poke a bigger hole than the rivnut requires, and make sure you're using a rivnut that's the correct grip range for the panel thickness you're putting it in. I've had a few spinners, but those were directly attributable to me botching the installation - that is, I drilled the hole too big. I've also over-collapsed a few which makes the threads bind. Again attributable to user error, tightening the installation tool a turn or two beyond the full collapse.

10-24/32 and bigger sizes are easy to feel when the shank collapses and tightens against the panel (that includes similar metric sizes, 5mm-.80 ans up), 8-32 and smaller takes a bit more practice and finesse, its harder to "feel" the collapse with the threaded twist tool. I actually broke the mandrel on my 8-32 tool over-tightening it. oops!

you don't want to mix stainless with stainless of course, that will invite galling and seizure. But, I've got stainless screws into Cad-plated inserts in several places besides the new battery holder, and they're fine. you DO have to make sure there arent' any side loads on the screws that will cause undue friction and binding on the stainless because, galling!

if you're going to use them, practice on some scraps first, run some screws in and out.

I've gotten decent results with the smooth-side aluminum inserts, but I really prefer the Cad-plated steel with the external knurling. I practiced on some scraps before committing to the B-3 installs, and I really did learn a lot about making them work correctly during my tenure as a MFG support engineer 2011-2013 at my day gig. there, I saw radar shelters coming back for refurbishment from the field from long deployments - some measured in decades - and properly installed rivet nuts working just fine, the screws threaded right out no problem.

on the new battery holder, I ran the screws in and out at least a half dozen times doing fit checks and massaging the shape. no problems.

so, good hole prep, correct grip length, use a GOOD installation tool, make sure the shank collapses all the way (but isn't over-collapsed), and you'll get good results.

they are also good for composite panels, but the install is a bit trickier.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 11:16 am 
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robbovius wrote:
. . . I really did learn a lot about making them work correctly during my tenure as a MFG support engineer 2011-2013 at my day gig. there, I saw radar shelters coming back for refurbishment from the field from long deployments - some measured in decades - and properly installed rivet nuts working just fine, the screws threaded right out no problem. . . .


Thanks for the very complete run-down, Rob. The quote above tells a lot. We all know what a beating military-type equipment gets in the field. If they can survive that, they should last in a Locost, no sweat. It just looks like the installation process is not just important, it's critical for success.

Thanks again,

Lonnie

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PostPosted: January 8, 2016, 12:40 pm 
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One thing that helped me is to drill from the side the riv-nut goes in and then flush sand on that side, do not chamfer. And do not debur on the opposite side. Let the collapsing side bite into the burrs on the backside. I have used the HF tool which is fairly worn out now. I also made some home-made tools for the bugger riv-nuts.

I used some riv-nuts in my build. But I also just self drilling, thread-forming screws to form threaded holes in the 16ga steel. Just not for structural areas. You end up with ~ 1-1/2 threads if you use 8-32 or 10-32 screws. I then used regular machine screws in the threaded holes. I have not had any problems. If I had my druther's, I go with a pierce and extruded hole and then use thread forming screws. I did that in a lot of industrial enclosures. The best of all worlds IMO.

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PostPosted: January 11, 2016, 12:51 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
One thing that helped me is to drill from the side the riv-nut goes in and then flush sand on that side, do not chamfer. And do not debur on the opposite side. Let the collapsing side bite into the burrs on the backside.


y'know, I have been remiss in mentioning these two prep operations because I do the same. sand the insertion surface flat, leave the other side alone. give the insert some sharp edges to bite into.

RX thanks for bringing that up.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


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PostPosted: January 21, 2016, 12:43 pm 
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Let the collapsing side bite into the burrs on the backside.
Sounds kinky! Is there video? :shock:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: January 21, 2016, 4:27 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
Let the collapsing side bite into the burrs on the backside.
Sounds kinky! Is there video? :shock:


did I ever tell you the story about how, back in my dirt-biking days, I was powering up a hillclimb, got off line, blasted thru a pricker bush, topped out, and discovered I had a thorn stuck right into the tip of my nose? (still have the scar) no?

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


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PostPosted: March 8, 2016, 9:13 am 
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Since replacing the XS850 battery with the larger capacity powersports AGM unit, I've had this other small update that I've been meaning to do for about a year - installing External Battery Terminals. this will make life way easier for me, with regards to connecting the battery maintainer during the winter. no more taking the passenger seat out to charge the battery or jump start.

I suppose I could have made my own, out of some bolts and heater hose, but the Speedway Motors units are so very nice, and come with attached protective rubber caps.

first, whip out the hole saw!

Attachment:
20160306_125848.jpg


then, MAGIC! "para mira de voy!" BOOM!

Attachment:
20160307_191414.jpg


Cables are CBMMA boneyard scrounge material from 2 years ago. Cable end lugs are both crimped and soldered. the Hot Lead is insulated with self-adhering mastic tape. Stretch it and it adheres to itself, molds to oddball shapes, and doesn't come off without cutting and struggling.

slightly blurry detail...

Attachment:
20160307_194214.jpg


the terminals are in the fuel tank well...

Attachment:
20160307_193252.jpg


the area around the hot terminal is insulated with adhesive-backed rubber roof flashing, to prevent inadvertent shorting when jumping or charging. That stuff is very useful. I may replace my interior under-flooring with it. maybe.

Lastly, a positive terminal insulator made out of another favorite material, Motorcycle Inner Tube.

Attachment:
20160307_194203.jpg


Next mod is going to be a giant pain, drilling out the break-off bolts that secure the ignition plate. Need to back off the ignition to cure a hot-temps detonation issue its got with the higher compression 896CC overbore.


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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


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PostPosted: March 8, 2016, 7:07 pm 
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robbovius wrote:
adhesive-backed rubber roof flashing,


Hmm, interesting. I have not seen that stuff before. That could be useful for lots of things.

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PostPosted: March 9, 2016, 8:24 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
robbovius wrote:
adhesive-backed rubber roof flashing,


Hmm, interesting. I have not seen that stuff before. That could be useful for lots of things.


yeah, I'd seen big contractor-sized rolls of the stuff back around 2002, and used it as underlayment for shingling on the house I had at the time, and I've used the anti-water and ice aluminum-foil covered adhesive flashing, but this roll of pure rubber stuff was something I'd never seen before. a foot wide, 25 feet long roll, about $30. Got it right off of the shelf at Homeless Despot.

in other news, first commute of the year today. This time last year there was still 3 feet of plow berm up against the G'raj door.

Attachment:
20160309_061918[1].jpg


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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


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PostPosted: March 9, 2016, 8:30 am 
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Got it right off of the shelf at Homeless Despot.
One of my kids referred to it as "Home Beepo" when she was about 2. I haven't been able to say "Home Depot" ever since... :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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