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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 6, 2017, 5:01 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
Posts: 41
hello I am starting this log to help stay sane. the last week was spent on front suspension and it is not done yet but i think the a arms are right. i have to let welds cool then weld next and hope nothing warps.
about 5 months back i bought a Ron Champion frame i was told 50% done [maybe not] with 86 corolla gts engine, trans, dif. mgb front steering, breaks, pedal assembly with masters. the welds looked ok, every thing was mounted, but it was all held together with 1/4" bolts. was told the proper bolts got lost but were all 7/16" and with new bolts every thing would be good. boxes of new parts like, piston rings, rod bearings, gasket set, intake with dual side draft solex 40 addhe, new calipers, disc pads, springs and shocks from bike, lots of small parts. got it for less than what parts were worth as builder was moving that week.
the 86 corolla gts had a 4age 1600cc engine, T50 trans, and solid axle with disc breaks. i thought this was a good start. next 2 months was spent rebuilding engine in my spare time. had to call old builder to give him heads up when i got the head off and sand was hiding inside cam buckets all 16 full, bearings, oil lines and on top of pistons he thanked me for the warning and thinks he knows who did it. before finding sand parts look like new assembly grease on all moving parts no sand showing. glad i decided to replace valve seals or would have mist it. when i was cleaning sand out decided to gasket match head and clean mold marks. assembled engine, backing plate, clutch trans and tried to mount to frame mounts do not line up if i use engine mounts oil pan 3" below frame trans hits tunnel drive shaft 1" to long. then i thought maybe it's the dif is out. it was moved 5 of the 11 mounting points by 3/4" average.
since i have to move mounts thinking of using a 20r engine i built it for 200+ hp before nos. the car it was in hit a tree 500km after rebuild. e/mod mite be fun. bin adding x bracing to stop frame flex.
my welds should have cooled by now so time to weld some more.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 12:57 am 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
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i have pictures on flickr but have not bin able to move them here when i figure out how to show them i well.
i spent the day welding and letting cool then more welding. finished full floor weld 14 swg not bad looking small warp but very strong. i know 14 swg is over kill but it was $40 for 4'x8' sheet and it was in stock. the 20r trans is a w50 and after grinding off some extra wide parts it fit in the tunnel with 1/2 gap. so the 20r well fit but when i get to the hood it mite be more time but other than that about the same for 4age [D\mod scca] or 20r [E\mod scca]. the plan is to get it racing in autocross this summer and add parts tell i can get plates for street. how much power can you use with a car this lite?


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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 10:04 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1625
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Tim
Installing you oil pan 3" below the frame rail is probably asking for road clearance issues. My 4AGE is set with the oil pan bottom flat to the ground and it's set 1 3/8" below the frame rail. The oil filler cap just fits under a 1" high nose cone after shaving a 1/4" off the filler neck on the cam cover.
A 20R engine is going to be a lot higher! Where are you located? Dave W


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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 1:27 pm 
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hi dave i am in kelowna bc. the oil pan is way to low and i have to move mounts that is why i am thinking of the swap to 20r.
last nite i finished welding floor 14swg steel it was cheep. then i test fit 20r trans after grinding some extra wide parts off it had 1/2" clear from tunnel and room for slave. so the 20r well fit. at this point the 4age or the 20r seam to be the same cost to install. yes the 20r is taller at oil cap 24 1/2" tall 23" long, 4age is at oil cap 23"tall 20" long. the hood would change and nose cone but i do not have one yet. i am thinking that with the 4age id be better cornering with less wight, but with the 20r power better in the mountains of bc. i have pictures when i figure out how to post them.


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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 4:22 pm 
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Joined: February 8, 2007, 4:20 am
Posts: 254
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Hi Tim,

You should pay Greg Wellwood a visit, who build a 4AGE powered Locost, and also lives in Kelowna:

http://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/t ... al-locost/

I'm pretty sure he is a member on this site, but can't remember his username at the moment.

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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 5:37 pm 
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
mainlandboy wrote:
You should pay Greg Wellwood a visit, who build a 4AGE powered Locost, and also lives in Kelowna:

http://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/t ... al-locost/

I'm pretty sure he is a member on this site, but can't remember his username at the moment.
Would that be "SkinnyG"???
:cheers:

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PostPosted: March 7, 2017, 10:20 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1625
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Tim
Also check out West Coast Ron's build. He's in North Van BC.
He goes by sevenesqueron.

Dave W


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PostPosted: March 8, 2017, 12:59 am 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
JD you're right again! I'm not counting but I'm sure it's more than one in a row.

Greg's user name heree is SkinnyG. He is teacher so just might be able to help.

Cheers,

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PostPosted: March 8, 2017, 3:21 am 
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thanks met greg skinnyG at autocross have not seen his lethal locost he was racing a truck. greg gave me a card with locostUSA.com and his site on it grate help. when i asked if 4age 1600cc was the enough power he told me it was fun but his new 7 well be 2L and mk2 frame. have spent the winter reading posts and build logs. have seen skinnyG add power with new intake and still posts i need more power. i have bin thinking of moving panhard bar under the dif like it is on his.
i spent some time on Nick's MGB Build thanks nick the front suspension plans page 4 are a big help. i have 73 mgb front swivel axle.

if this works it's the 20r and 4age
Image
Image
Image
and looking at the tunnel
Image
driver side x bracing
Image


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PostPosted: March 8, 2017, 8:31 am 
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benny_toe wrote:
JD you're right again! I'm not counting but I'm sure it's more than one in a row.
SHHH! Fer Garsh-Sakes, don't tell anybody! After all, I've got a reputation to live down to! :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: March 9, 2017, 12:41 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1399
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Kelowna, that's not far from me. There was also another builder from Kamloops on here, Dfdal I think, but he's moved to Sicamous and hasn't been posting in the last couple years. I think his car was Toyota powered too, and he had a build log on here.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 9, 2017, 4:49 pm 
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Thank you for names of other builders to look at spent last night on west coast Ron's page. seems like he is happy with power of the 4age. also good to see others in bc. when i am done i hope to see some other builds and see if mine can keep up and look as good from 30 feet back. The cars on this site look so good.

At this point i have about 2 weeks of work before i have to decide 20r or 4age. Today i want to use 20r.

- The 4age is stock 1.6L with a new set of rings and a gasket match head, spent $300 on it. rebuilt it over this winter shop has dirt floor so cleaned and honed outside assembled in dining room.

- The 20r was built for me bored 160 thou now it is a 2.4L with 11 to 1 forged pistons, forged rods, arp mane and head studs, gasket match head, over sized valves, dual valve springs, the best bearings i could find, adjustable cam gear. cam set up to run 3000-8000rpm, header, it's safe for nos or 6psi boost, spent $7,000 on it last winter.

More power can't be a bad thing can it? if i can get the tire's to grip.


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PostPosted: March 9, 2017, 8:07 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
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Location: Novato, CA
I'm not a huge power fan, so take these comments with a grain of salt. My Locost puts out about 85 hp at the rear wheels and it's still faster than my 1.8L Miata. I get a chirp out of the rear tires when shifting to third, and I can steer with the throttle in a 60 mph turn. The only time I feel like I might want more power is when someone pulls up to challenge me, and it's probably good for my driving privileges that I don't get sucked into that anyway.

If my Locost was a track or autocross car, I'd think about adding some boost. As a street driver it's got plenty of power. To me, the fun of these cars is in the handling more than anything else. Besides, the Locost is not a very sophisticated car. Low tech, separate body and frame, basic suspension. A race motor might be too good for it.


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 1:06 pm 
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Thanks for posting your 85hp is good for a street car Nick and for your builders log. i am going back to your log when i get to the break lines.

i am planing to race it kelowna has autocross on thursday 4pm all summer. the toyota 4age should be more than 100hp i think thay have 120hp stock. the 20r would add about 100 pounds to car and about 100hp compared to 4age.


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 5:05 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
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found out how to add picks. took them this week so this is where i am at.
i know it's not real tell you see it.
20r and 4age
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20r trans on the left
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solex 40
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some frame
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i moved all front mounts should be 5 caster still welding so hope nothing warps
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