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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 4:36 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
7-29 --> 8-4, 2012

Some time ago I set the goal of having this heap under it's own power by summer 2012... It's now August 2012 and I'm back at work in a few weeks.. Projects like this almost always need quite a bit of sorting, so I'm trying to simply make it run without being too worried about details I know I'll be chasing/changing later.. (i.e. things like the cobbled together radiator hoses will one day be replaced with steel lines..)

Finished mount for right bank coils.. / Moved the entire VFR harness into the car and began to shorten/lengthen wires as needed (ALL splices on this project are soldered- I don't want to chase electrical gremlins later) / fabbed battery platform in rear passenger area of trunk (offset driver wt.) / cut up aluminum pieces to create a sump on the bottom of the spun aluminum fuel tank.. / cobbled enough fuel and electrical together to start the engine in the car (8-1-2012) :cheers: Changed oil/filter 3 times to be stupid sure any contaminants are now out (don't know the history of this motor even if it is just 17K old).. / put the T5 tranny into 1st (up on blocks) and it's obvious the driveshaft mount on the T5 input shaft needs reworking- lots of odd clinks and clanks where there should be none :roll: // Nice to hear it run- takes a bit of stress off :wink:


Attachments:
harness unmodified.jpg
harness unmodified.jpg [ 171.21 KiB | Viewed 1630 times ]
beginning harness mods.jpg
beginning harness mods.jpg [ 167.25 KiB | Viewed 1630 times ]

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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 5:16 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
8-4-12

Wired in front turn signals (sourced from a VW passat) and headlights / plumbed fuel lines back to where aluminum tank will live. / tested lights- ok- mounted headlights..

8-5 --> 8-13, 2012

Many small misc tasks.. installed engine ground strap (VERY hard to start with this forgotten item :BH: / radiator puke tank / wired Battery into rear of car. / fabbed battery hold down..

8-14-2012

School's back in, so it's back to work for me-- I've been so spoiled spending many very long summer days on this project to make this progress.. I came really close to havnig this thing under it's own power this summer-- fuel tank needs modded (I have to farm it out as I can't weld aluminum).. with that, it will technically run- still needs doors/glass/lights/ etc. Still waiting for license plates too..

August 18/19, 2012

UNDER IT'S OWN POWER!! :cheers: Albeit cheeseballed together (no windscreen- no doors- no switches- no plates....), it starts, runs, and moves like a real car! The immediate issues are: The T5 input shaft/ DS flange union is an issue.. I was hoping this would work as my inline slip joint.. No way, needs to be solid mounted.. Also, shifts are quite abrupt through the bike tranny (should have integrated a guibo or TRT to minimize this :( / Also. it's too loud!! I put a small, cheap glasspack muffler in and it's not enough- need to find quiet a different way / Also, the VFR cooling fan switch is not triggering @ 210/215 degrees as it should.. / Still need to install doors and all glass (I have the glass -sans windshield- and had it tinted out of the car- just need to install it..


Attachments:
tinted glass ready to go in.jpg
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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 5:26 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
8-21-2012

Reassembled rear quarter windows and installed.. / Decided to try an experiment and glue in the rear window (as opposed to using an OEM style rubber seal. My thought is I'll get a cleaner line/flush mount as do 'modern' cars using the glue-in procedure.. I used a 5/8" lip to close the gap (same as late model cars).. I think there's just enough body flange there to pull it off.. I'll post pics of this once I find them- I'm happy with how it turned out- a subtle thing almost no one will notice.. / I have my doubts, but I'm going to try and drill/tap/set screw the driveshaft flange onto the T5 input shaft- likely a bandaid for a later rework.. / Bought a 2nd muffler to go downstream and try and quiet this noisy car..

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:07 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
8-25-2012

The work continues, but the pics will slow down a bit as much of it is fiddly/rework go backs.. / Installed 2nd flow through muffler downline under rear seat area.. / loaded driver door with latches/glass/channel/ etc and installed on car. / Muffler #2 helped but still pretty loud... likely need to plumb exhaust all the way out to rear of car to make me happy (currently dumps under diff). / Took it around the block and found gearing to be WAY too low (first gear is useless).. maybe bump the T5 OD gear to a .63 from it's current .72 to help with this? Likely need to change diff back to the Ford 7.5 and use 2.73 gears. / Fabbed 'handles' onto paddle shifter pivot bar. / Moved pivot hole on bike shift lever to make paddle shifter ratio more appropriate.

8-27-12

Found a leak in pass side radiator (used one from motor #2).. swapped it out for one from my bike. Also, fan still not switching on (at all), so I swapped in the fan switch from my bike (known to work at tear down) to see if that's it.. Also thinking I may have a trapped air pocket... raised pass front of car to insure the rad fill is the high point.. / Tested fan itself by grounding the fan switch lead and it works fine- turns fan on, so problem must lie with the switch (sensor in the radiator)?

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


Last edited by ccrunner on April 30, 2013, 1:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:34 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
8-28-2012

Out on a run yesterday and I was thinking about the fan switch problem.. I think I actually created this issue with an earlier mod..

The fan is likely not switching on because I moved the fan motor off of radiator #1 (Honda VFR OEM spot- the same radiator that houses the fan switch incidentally), over to radiator #2 for clearance issues. Since the VFR setup had the fan and it's switch all on one radiator, my new theory is that when that radiator gets up to temp, the switch grounds as it should, and because it's attached to the SAME radiator, the fan also becomes grounded, thus turning on! Brilliant! If you're still with me, you know that my fan is now not triggering on because it's now over on a totally different (non-grounded) radiator. The solution is to take the fan ground lead and jump it over to radiator #1 for the circuit to complete.. need to make the groundwire mod and test my theory..

8-30-2012

Lengthened the fan ground lead and moved it over to radiator #1.. drove around to block to get up to temp and woo hoo, it now works! :cheers: I hate chasing electrical issues- not my strong suit- so I'm happy to have solved this one.. (btw- the fan seems to kick on at about 218, and off at about 207).

9-1-->3-2012

Installed windshield (glued in as did the rear glass- makes for a clean install). / fabbed airbox lid (needed low profile to clear the hood)- used a 2.5" inlet and will plumb for cold air intake later..

9-5-2012

Shipped T5 input shaft to LA machine shop to be resplined (going to use a 1987 Suzuki Samauri front driveshaft pinion flange as donor for the 'new' driveshaft).. Lesson learned- the flange at the T5 input shaft MUST be solid mounted

Math time.. On my little side streets I'm running out of gears quickly, so I need to know what the freeway will bring.. I suck at all things electrical and math, so here's what I think I know; My Miata 3.9 diff (on paper) will turn 8,000 rpm @ 70 mph :shock: // 7200 rpm @ 60 mph/ 6500 rpm @ 50 mph.. WAY too tight for a DD.. The math that I suck at says I have no choice but to go over to a numerically lower ratio... the math shows a 2.73 will turn 4200 rpm @ 70 mph.. the math wants to know what the hell I was thinking when I switched paths and put that 3.9 Miata diff in there :roll:

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:48 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
9-8/9-2012

Wired in rear lights- wiring is now essentially done (although still using all VFR switches on the temp dash- will change those over to 'car' switches later).. Turn signals flash too fast now- need to change to an electronic flasher.. / Worked for a bit today on the 79 F250 steering column harness- had to change out the turn signal unit- not a big deal..

September 10, 2012

I've been very active on this all summer, and Lisa (wife) has had about enough :(
I've got a cool, project-friendly wife, but she's right- my life's been a bit out of balance with this car and my family misses me.. Want to get this thing running, safe, and reliable and step away from it for awhile.. things to do to get to that point (I've asked her for a few weeks more).. swap front coils up to 200#/ load and install pass door/ fab driveshaft hoop/ trim out front fenders/ install side-view mirrors/

9-11-2012

Finished fabbing mounts for side-view mirrors. / began 'loading' pass door for install soon

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


Last edited by ccrunner on April 30, 2013, 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 12:55 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2138
Location: meadview arizona
this is an extremely unusual build and the various techniques used are fascinating, the remote trans and the like are somewhat ground breaking.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 1:11 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
9-15/16-2012

Adjusted coil height on all corners (this is currently done by moving the upper mounting plate up/down in the coil barrel and using solid tack welds on it until I'm 100% sure on my coils and ride height- then I'll go back and finish weld/trim them in). put 200# coils in front (150# were too light) and 125 still in the rear- this car is very, very light- maybe 1300# total.. / Front frame-oilpan is 4.0" off the ground, and rear frame-diff is 4.5' off the ground.. both are very close to where I want them.. / Loaded and installed pass door. / Trimmed out front fenders (flares on all corners later). / decided NOT to move shoulder seat belt anchor points (may leave them as they are). / Put a jumper cable into clutch circuit (careful- it now starts in gear!)

9-19-2012

T5 input shaft back from machine shop-- need to send it back as the end threads are some mystery size that don't work with ANY nut SAE or metric?!?! / need for have driveshaft modded (again) to 42.25".. / need to have tires balanced and have car aligned..

9-22-2012

fabbed in rear seatbelt mounts and modded rear seat frame to more easily slip into floor slits to ease intall. / fabbed tranny cover and under rear seat section (tedious work, but should be effective.. / still need: driveshaft/ driveshaft hoop/ trans tunnel/ electronic blinker..

pics; car in toyhauler for a trip to the only alignment shop I could find willing to put such a narrow car on their rack- had them align it as if it were an NA Miata..


Attachments:
N600 in 18 foot toy hauler.jpg
N600 in 18 foot toy hauler.jpg [ 158.59 KiB | Viewed 1572 times ]
plenty of room in there.jpg
plenty of room in there.jpg [ 155.95 KiB | Viewed 1572 times ]
int shot hauler.jpg
int shot hauler.jpg [ 175.81 KiB | Viewed 1572 times ]

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 1:48 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
john hennessy wrote:
this is an extremely unusual build and the various techniques used are fascinating, the remote trans and the like are somewhat ground breaking.


Thanks John.. I was really hoping that rear tranny/reverse setup would work.. The concept actually does work for a guy with a bit more patience and maybe a few more bucks than I was willing to continue spending on it.. I think I'd have been ok if not for that bent input shaft :roll:

I've really enjoyed the 'puzzle solving' aspect of the build.. so much of what I've done in the past has been of the replace/restore type of work.. this time I'm trying to make/modify something a bit different.. Lots of time, mistakes, and dead ends, but it's been fun and quite a challenge for me..

-ccrunner

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 2:51 pm 
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Joined: December 20, 2011, 10:19 pm
Posts: 198
Hey CCRunner....

I gotta say that's an interesting project. The divorced transmission with a motorcycle engine is an interesting idea.

ccrunner wrote:
Math time.. On my little side streets I'm running out of gears quickly, so I need to know what the freeway will bring.. I suck at all things electrical and math, so here's what I think I know; My Miata 3.9 diff (on paper) will turn 8,000 rpm @ 70 mph :shock: // 7200 rpm @ 60 mph/ 6500 rpm @ 50 mph.. WAY too tight for a DD.. The math that I suck at says I have no choice but to go over to a numerically lower ratio... the math shows a 2.73 will turn 4200 rpm @ 70 mph.. the math wants to know what the hell I was thinking when I switched paths and put that 3.9 Miata diff in there :roll:


I did some quick calculations (based on your two ratios) and don't get 4200 rpm at 70 mph with the new gear. 8000 rpm x 2.73 (new gear) / 3.91 (old gear)) = 5600 rpm (new rpm). You'd need like a 2.05:1 gear ratio to get down to 4200 rpm (assuming the rest of your numbers are correct).

If you'd like, I'd be happy to help you with the calculations. You'd need things like Rear and Transmission gear ratios, tire diameter, and gear ratios in the bike trans. With those things, you can calculate speed vs rpm in any gear you'd like. I like to use an Excel spreadsheet for that kind of thing (makes the math easy)

JustDreamin


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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 6:00 pm 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
If you'd like, I'd be happy to help you with the calculations. You'd need things like Rear and Transmission gear ratios, tire diameter, and gear ratios in the bike trans. With those things, you can calculate speed vs rpm in any gear you'd like. I like to use an Excel spreadsheet for that kind of thing (makes the math easy)

JustDreamin


=================

I appreciate it JustDreamin.. but it would almost be moot as the lowest rear ratio I've ever found (never actually 'found one', the books just say they were made) is a unicorn 2.60 (Ford 7.5) from the early 1970s--- I think they came in Mavericks or Grenadas or such... I know most BEC guys end up somewhere near 3.0-ish, so even if my math is wrong, with my 2.73s I'm likely about as good as I can get (I'm actually worried a bit that I went too far for 1st gear purposes)..

I do appreciate your offer though :cheers:

-ccrunner

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 11:51 am 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
October 2, 2012

Got the T5 input shaft back from C***'s machine shop in LA. The 1st time it came back from the respline job the new threads were so poorly done the .75 x 16 nut would not go on (and I didn't want to force it).. Sent it out for a re-do.. Now the nut goes on, but to quote the machinist, "I kinda boogered up about 1/3 of the threads, but it should still hold!" So sloppy this work.. I'm really surprised they let this out the door.. This whole T5/flange/driveshaft/input shaft rework has me wishing I had just sucked it up and bought an inline reverse box in the beginning :BH:

10-4-2012

Just to note that I've started parting out/selling off the bits of the bike that I don't need.. meeting some pretty cool 2-wheel types that are happy to get the parts they need to repair their own bikes- I will say that shipping gets old quick! Also, I feel bad for you Canadian guys- wow! Something magical happens at the boarder that makes your shipping fees get stupid expen$ive!?

10-6/7-2012

Reinstalled the T5 input shaft.. Redid the 'spider' (again) for the engine-side morse cable anchor point.. / Refilled T5 with oil.. / Fabbed driveshaft safety hoop (this shaft spins a mere inches from the driver and passenger's legs.. / Changed flasher to electronic type to better regulate blinking..

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 12:05 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
OCTOBER 8, 2012

It's a real car!!

Today was the day I felt comfortable enough with it to take it to work (16 freeway miles door to door).. It revs over 6K @55 mph and is very noisy (maybe cause I didn't close the floor off yet?!), but other than that it does pretty well.. there are still many issues/tasks/refinements to make, but in the big picture, this little pile of poo that has lived on in the desert on it's hubs since it broke down in 1984 is a running, driving car again- woo hoo!

(Alright, let's not get too heady here- it's no Cadillac, but it is fun!)

pic: made a pit stop on the way home from work at our local mall.. as I walked up to the car in the lot, it just struck me as comical how tiny this thing is when it's next to a 'normal' car, so I snapped this cell phone pic for scale..


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_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 12:14 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Oct 2012

More driving reveals more issues to address..

-Needs heavier clutch/springs.. current OEM springs won't hold the clutch if you goose it hard at higher RPM (it really only slips briefly, but it bugs me)
-Rear end regear can't happen soon enough- this thing drives me nuts with the noise/RPMs at freeway speeds (I'll get run over if I only creep along at 55 mph to keep the revs down..- maybe do the rear end swap over Xmas break from school?
-MUST close the hole around the tranny and open floor area.. actually I have no right to drive this car as it sits; the driveshaft is uncovered and spinning inches from my thigh :shock: ... I've got to fix this safety stuff asap..

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: May 1, 2013, 12:54 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1202
Location: Bakersfield, CA
10-10-2012

My God this car's a hoot :D I'm not really flogging on it until it's better sorted, but every now and again I'll on-purpose take a turn a bit too fast and this thing sticks like it's on rails! With no sway bars and on Summer tires I cannot believe the handling- so, so fun.

I still don't like the loud exhaust.. I plan to pull out the 12' glasspack that's currently inline and try a "CC" insert to tame this thing a bit.. I don't like loud bikes (street or dirt), and I'm trying to find the balance between letting it breath and saving what's left of my hearing..

Also keeping an eye on engine temps- no issues yet, but I'm nervous about using the OEM radiators... In the bike, VFR motors run notoriously hot- I'm hoping it gets no worse in this car (I never had a heat issue when I was riding my VFR over these last few years, but the OEM design does in fact cycle that fan quite a bit- although the fan brings the temp right back down nicely). If I develop an issue, I might swap out the oil cooler for one from a 2002-06 RC51 as it's an easy swap at about double the capacity.. also will try 'engine ice' or 'water wetter' if I must (only read about them- some say it's bunk, others swear by it..)

More little tweaks here and there.. I've adjusted the PowerCommander to +2% in all 3 bands as my current exhaust is really open (I might actually need to introduce some backpressure).. Also toying with the accelerator pump feature.. Currently on Dynojet's map #3 and happy with it.. once car is sorted I'll likely seek out a custom tune (this is an area where I don't have a lot of experience)- I'm old enough that we used to deal with cams, carbs, n cubes to get HP 8) --I do love where technology is going though.. I think my next project will use an LNF Ecotec engine- easy 300 ft lbs/ 300 hp with a tune on 4 cylinders- LOVE IT!

_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 build log (bike engine in a microcar)... "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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