LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently September 22, 2019, 8:01 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 451 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 31  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Low-Cost At-om VTEC
PostPosted: December 12, 2006, 8:28 pm 
Offline
Locostering Legend
User avatar

Joined: December 27, 2005, 8:13 pm
Posts: 787
Although the donor 2001 Civic EX was purchased late February 2006, the frame sparks started flying Thanksgiving when my son was home from school. The car is intended to be my practice Ar-i-el At-om clone (tribute?). (I'll stop practicing with my third or fourth try.) It only has 127 HP (flywheel) from the D17A2 engine but if it comes in at the target 1000 lbs., it should go pretty good.

Projected budget is about $6000, which for me is high-cost. I don't have a web page, so I will post updates here if you don't mind. It's not a Se7en, but embodies the same spirit. If I get time to work on it, the build could be completed next year around this time.


Attachments:
Overloaded.JPG
Overloaded.JPG [ 62.12 KiB | Viewed 52292 times ]
Civic roadster.JPG
Civic roadster.JPG [ 52.29 KiB | Viewed 52284 times ]
W bracing.JPG
W bracing.JPG [ 79.22 KiB | Viewed 52292 times ]


Last edited by Anonymous on June 3, 2009, 2:05 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 12, 2006, 8:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 20, 2006, 8:59 pm
Posts: 91
Wow, lots of people planning or starting MR builds lately. Should be cool seeing some of these come together.

_________________
If you can't buy it, build it.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 12, 2006, 11:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 27, 2006, 11:44 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Edmonton
I can't wait to see more. I would assume there is gonna be lots of cool custom hammered aluminum? Now that we know what your capable of our expectations are high! :D


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 13, 2006, 11:03 am 
Offline

Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
Posts: 7046
Location: Charleston, WV
Looks good! I can't wait to see more.



I hope that Civic wasn't hauling a passenger. :shock:

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 14, 2006, 12:01 am 
Offline

Joined: September 21, 2005, 6:09 pm
Posts: 266
Location: Laveen, AZ
This is going to be one of my favourite threads, I'm already hooked.

Looking forward to following along John, particularily as my next project will have a lot in common!

-Steve


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 14, 2006, 12:33 am 
Offline

Joined: December 6, 2006, 10:40 am
Posts: 180
Location: Michigan
looks sweet, good luck with it! I'm hooked!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 23, 2006, 9:15 am 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6170
Cool project! I plan a similar build which is how I ended up here. I'm looking at using a wrecked late-90's contour with the 170hp duratec dohc v6 and 5 spd or a Lumina Z34 with the dohc 3.4L and 5spd if I find one. Did you purchase your car online?

I will use two front ends. I will mill the inboard end of the outer cv off just past the dust seal. A strip of .125"x 4"x 3' steel drilled to accept two lugs and ground to clear the concentric ring will be used to remove/install the hub nut. It works a lot better than just using the weight of the vehicle on the tire.

I am suprised you are not using the rubber engine mounts or atleast some kind of isolation. Since I plan to use the donor's full track and enclose the wheels, I expect to use a fiero fuel tank between the seats along with the shift cables.

Cyberdyne has a digital electronic speedo for $130 that works with any speed sensor, has a built-in tach, odo, has push button speed calibration as well as 0-60, qtr time, and max rpm logging. They come in blue, red, and green from Jegs. The brightness is reduced for night driving.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 23, 2006, 11:09 pm 
Offline
Locostering Legend
User avatar

Joined: December 27, 2005, 8:13 pm
Posts: 787
Spent last 10 days finalizing brake and suspension design. Will be making new front and rear uprights instead of trying to modify the donor pieces. That will save weight and improve looks. I will essentially copy the Brammo design as seen on the Leno car build photos. That version is improved from earlier photos I have seen (maybe Ar-i-el version).

Will use donor front rotors. Donor had rear drums, so will use 91 CRX rotors and in lieu of buying new Honda calipers with integral emerg brake for $160 ea, will buy Wilwood 2-piston Dynalite calipers and mechanical spot brakes for e brakes. I could use the donor front calipers, but they are 12 lbs ea and don't match the Wilwood rears, so will use Wilwood forged, 4 piston Dynalite fronts. That will make the donor brake pedal look out-of-place, so, you guessed it, I will need to use Wilwood pedal system with dual master cylinders and balance bar with remote adjuster. Thanks, Santa. (All included in $6000 build budget)

Ordered 16+ 1/2" diameter, high strength rod ends for all upper wishbones and rear, lower outers. Will use bushings for all lower wishbone frame pickups, and Moog ball joints for front, lower, outers.

Regarding recent comments:

Yes, all panels will be unpainted aluminum, including seat pan and what little body panels are used on the car.

There was, luckily, no evidence of either a passenger or driver left behind in the donor car. Dismantling would have been a greater challenge if I had to remove feet before I could remove pedals.

I found the donor by chance when I went to salvage yard looking for a tail light for my van. $800 dollars for car with 29,000 miles, good air bags, undamaged power steering pump, ABS unit, AC compressor, steering rack, brake MC and booster. Coolant and oil still in engine. I had to buy a shifter base on Ebay.

The motor mounts have plastic (of unknown species) bushings. The original mounts would probably not fit the frame and they are heavy. I will save 12 to 15 pounds by tossing them and making custom pieces. I don't need no stinking isolation, harmonic-cancelling mounts. I have other cars that are quiet and vibration free. This will be designed with maximizing NVH as design criteria.

I'll use the donor gauge panel mounted in center of dash. Will put ignition switch in dash and may mount Honda light and turn indicator controls near dash, removed from wheel.


Attachments:
File comment: Three out of four motor mounts will have plastic bushings turned on lathe.
mtr mount bushing.jpg
mtr mount bushing.jpg [ 51.42 KiB | Viewed 52215 times ]
File comment: New hub bearing carrier turned from piece of CS pipe.
bearing carrier.JPG
bearing carrier.JPG [ 45.61 KiB | Viewed 52202 times ]
File comment: Locost rapid prototyping (paper and tape) was used for rear upright.
rapid prototyped rr upright.jpg
rapid prototyped rr upright.jpg [ 35.78 KiB | Viewed 52182 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 23, 2006, 11:47 pm 
Offline
Locostering Legend
User avatar

Joined: December 27, 2005, 8:13 pm
Posts: 787
More photos:


Attachments:
File comment: Moog 727 looks suitable for use on a Boeing 727. I may have to look for something with added "lightness". 2 lbs - 7 oz
monster ball joint.JPG
monster ball joint.JPG [ 74.06 KiB | Viewed 52123 times ]
File comment: May have to reverse the cable approach to the trans shifter arms. Should be OK if I reverse the cables at the shifter; have cables leave back of shifter or go forward as stock and reverse direction and route to rear.
shifter cables.JPG
shifter cables.JPG [ 78.76 KiB | Viewed 52084 times ]
File comment: New shifter with plastic base from Ebay. Original was smashed in crash.
shifter.JPG
shifter.JPG [ 68.7 KiB | Viewed 52052 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 25, 2006, 5:23 am 
Offline
Locostering Information Liaison
User avatar

Joined: August 17, 2005, 1:30 am
Posts: 2403
Location: So CALIFORNIA
About the At-om....
Quote:
Someone will unravel it...decode and decypher it.
Some people want to build one for themself, to save money.
Rarer people want to build them for others, to make money.

Either way you slice the orange there is money in secrets............

as found at.......
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=467
(please be forgiving of any Faux paus I may have typed in this thread)

JonW Thank you for sharring. YOU are AWESOME!!!! My hat's off to you in a HUGE way. I look forward to any progress you make on this and love every picture you post.

_________________
I'll keep an eye out for you!

To err is human...
I am more human than most.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 25, 2006, 5:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 20, 2006, 8:59 pm
Posts: 91
Just a basic question about adapting an FR drivetrain for MR. What do the shifter cables pull on? Are there levers like on a motorcycle transmission? Also, if you were to need longer cables, what would you use? Thanks

-Tim

_________________
If you can't buy it, build it.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 25, 2006, 7:14 pm 
Offline
Locostering Legend
User avatar

Joined: December 27, 2005, 8:13 pm
Posts: 787
The Honda shift mechanism is simple and elegant. Move shifter right or left and the vertical lever at the trans lifts or depresses the shaft. Move the front or back and the horizontal lever engages 1-5. An extra hard push to the right moves the vertical lever some more so reverse can be engaged.

The least time-consuming way, IMO, to move the shifter to mid position in front of engine would be to lengthen the cable and wrap around the engine to stilll approach from the rear. The extra long cable may induce too much friction. I think I will extend the length with rods until I reach the engine where I will transition to the cable.

If I later don't want to clutter the engine by wrapping the cables around the left side of the engine, I will approach the trans from the front, right side. This will require new cable anchors and maybe some motor mount mods. This would result in having the cables leave the shift lever from the back to reverse shifter action to match the reversed trans action. This would be the elegant solution; shortest length, least clutter, best feel, but require some re-engineering.

I will think on this until later in the build. Something will come to me (like copying someone else's design).
At this point I have not yet discovered how this is done on other mid cars, eg. MR2 and Elise.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 25, 2006, 10:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: November 20, 2006, 8:59 pm
Posts: 91
My idea is that, since the cable will be pulled in the opposite direction by the shifter, to have the cable act on the opposite side of the lever as well. Pretty much, if in standard form, the cable goes to the right, attach it to the left. Maybe even fabricate a new bracket that would bolt into existing holes on the transmission to hold the cable/rods.

_________________
If you can't buy it, build it.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 26, 2006, 9:53 pm 
Offline
Locostering Legend
User avatar

Joined: December 27, 2005, 8:13 pm
Posts: 787
Made some progress today on rear uprights. Fabbed both uprights out of 3 1/2" dia pipe and 3/16" plate. Will add 1/8" cover plates on inside of uprights tomorrow for stiffening. Should save 2 to 3 pounds per side. It's hard to compare to the original strut versions.

These uprights are very similar to the new Brammo versions as seen in the Leno build photos on their site. Brake mounting will be simpler, however.

Will make lower wishbones tomorrow. Waiting for my AA-Mfg stuff to arrive. It was only shipped today, not 12-21 like I thought. Lower arms will be 1" dia x .120" DOM. Uppers will be 1' dia x 0.065" DOM.

Lacking weld-on brackets and rod ends, I may have to start the front suspension box and front uprights next.

It' good to see progress after so much studying, etc. I have 6 more days of vacation to work on the car.


Attachments:
File comment: Upright laid on full-size drawing. Wide angle lens makes it look larger than actual.
rear upright- Leno style.JPG
rear upright- Leno style.JPG [ 23.57 KiB | Viewed 51819 times ]
File comment: Cover plates will be welded to inside of uprights.
rear upright 1.JPG
rear upright 1.JPG [ 33.92 KiB | Viewed 51834 times ]
File comment: Bolts will secure 1/2" high strength rod ends (Heim).
rear upright 2.JPG
rear upright 2.JPG [ 30.14 KiB | Viewed 51769 times ]
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 26, 2006, 10:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 22, 2006, 3:47 pm
Posts: 11
That's really awesome work, Jon! You're a real inspiration!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 451 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 31  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY