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PostPosted: April 27, 2014, 6:24 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
If the plan is to race this car in SCCA HP I would assume you have no plans to ditch the SUs in favor of something like mega squirt. Too bad that might really make the ol' A series sing :)


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PostPosted: April 29, 2014, 3:22 pm 
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I'm keeping the SUs for now. I've grown kind of fond of them. I think my only other legal option would be Webers but I'm not sure if its worth it.

My logic Warren was that you were inducing a residual stress by bending the tubes outwards. In order for the tubes to become straight you would have to undo this stress. Then after it was bent straight and being bent in the other direction, you would have to induce more stress but of opposite magnitude.

Right, wrong, or other it at least gets the cage away from you. ;)

Now for this past whirlwind week - it culminated with what was probably the most stressful weekend at a track/in a race car I've experienced. It was a true test of patience and mechanical sympathy. Thankfully one of my friends was able to make it out both days to help with the car and play pit crew. I don't know how I would have made it without him as the car had several teething issues that we just had to grit our teeth and deal with.

After the 1098 built pressure and was started last week I figured the trackcross (sort of like autocross but with cones on half of the race track) on Wednesday the 23rd would be a good break-in/shake down session. I made a few runs and found the clutch to be slipping like crazy. There was also oil coming out of the dust covers and drain hole on the bellhousing - something was definitely leaking in there. I bought the car home that night and pulled the engine.

Low and behold everything was soaked in oil including the clutch disk. All of the gaskets appeared to be good so it had to be coming from the scroll seal. I had a few spares but the clutch was not a stock clutch and the one that fit was in rough shape; I decided trying to clean it with brake parts cleaner was my best bet. Reading on the internet also made it seem like hooking a vacuum hose from the manifold to the crankcase vent would help to stop the leak.

Thursday afternoon I took a few hours of vacation and left work early to attempt to reinstall the engine. I had until 9:30 pm to cancel the school and have my entry fee refunded. At 8:00 I got the engine started, let it idle for awhile, noticed no leaks, and decided to give it a go. The vacuum hose worked....at least for then. I figured it was also a good time to paint the car so at 11pm out came the red Rustoleum and a roller.

My original plan was to take a few hours of vacation on Friday and head to the track after work. Since the engine issues resulted in all of the little odds and ends not getting done, I spent the morning rushing to get those things and my SCCA Novice Permit completed (they weren't happy with how the medical form was filled out). Everything was finally loaded into the trailer Friday afternoon and off to the track we went.

The classroom session was from 7pm until 9:30pm that evening. I was able to get the car to tech just before heading to class. After class I find that there was some concern over play in the front wheel bearings. I didn't notice it before so I'm guessing bearing retaining compound may have been used and it must have broken loose from running. The result was the play between the hub and the outer races on both sides.

Saturday morning I tried to fix it with some help of a few local SCCA guys; a "new" hub and new bearings were the answer but not an option at that time. We trimmed the conical spacer some and it helped to eliminate some play. Shortly thereafter the first school session began. The slipping clutch returned and required babying of the throttle for the remainder of the weekend (based on 5 quarts of oil going somewhere throughout the course of the weekend I'm guessing the leak isn't fixed - happy belated Earth Day!).

The dash switch, which receives power from the voltage regulator, worked intermittently. We found that switching the master switch on and off would eventually reset something and cause the switch to work so the car could be started. It was less than ideal but it couldn't be fixed at the moment.

Fortunately the routine for the rest of Saturday was baby the gas so as to not cook the clutch, keep the engine oil topped off, make sure there is enough water in the radiator, and keep a full tank of 110 octane. The engine was also assembled with no seals on the exhaust valve guides. It made for a nice smoke screen at partial throttle; it was fine at idle and full throttle. Fortunately the car survived day one and I completed the school.

Students that passed the school on Saturday were allowed to run in the double regional race on Sunday. The vintage group was the first to qualify. I ended up qualifying 7th out of 8 cars thanks to the clutch. Somewhere between qualifying and the first race the charging system decided to throw in the towel; apparently the voltage regulator issues from Saturday got worse. Starting the car required a jump pack and jumping across a relay. Unfortunately the weather was also warmer on Sunday so the lack of a fan caused the car to get warmer than I would have liked in false grid for the two afternoon races. The extra heat caused the idle to come up which caused oil to be sucked past the exhaust valves and pumped out the tail pipe. I was not the favorite person in grid. Once we were under way everything was fine thankfully.

I had a good first race and was running with a 1956 Turner for awhile. My finish was the same as my qualifying position but it was fun and the car survived. The second race was much more stressful - the lack of a charging system began to catch up with the car about half way through. At first the car could only rev to 6,000 rpm. Then 5,500 rpm. Every time around I was praying for the "1" to be displayed at the start/finish line. At last my prayers were answered and shortly there after the race was over.

We put together a list of about a dozen items that need to be addressed to prepare the car for the next outing but overall I would say the weekend was a success. I am now in possession of a PVGP license and will be able to participate in the 2014 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix and I also have an SCCA Novice Permit with one race on it; two more events and I'll have a regional license.

The real icing on the cake was the car - several people recognized it from back in the 70s. Someone arriving Saturday evening for Sunday's race stuck his head out of the RV and asked if that was so-and-so's old car. He pulled out his phone, called the original owner, and told him his car was at the track. Sunday morning a gentleman approached the car as I'm getting ready to go qualify and introduces himself as the original owner. It was really neat being able to talk with him about his racing and the car's history. He also confirmed that the last race was at Road Atlanta in 1981 (three years before I was born!)

A few people took pictures but unfortunately there were too many other things going on to be bothered with a GoPro; I'll post some more pictures later.


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PostPosted: April 29, 2014, 5:31 pm 
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Ahha! the return of Lucas Prince of Darkness :lol: If it is running at last flag drop you dun good :cheers:


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PostPosted: April 29, 2014, 9:25 pm 
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you really need to check this guy out, my father and i raced againt the fellers, and they will have some good stuff for sale.

http://prodracing.com/prodcar/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15360

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PostPosted: April 29, 2014, 10:20 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
I'm keeping the SUs for now. I've grown kind of fond of them. I think my only other legal option would be Webers but I'm not sure if its worth it.

My logic Warren was that you were inducing a residual stress by bending the tubes outwards. In order for the tubes to become straight you would have to undo this stress. Then after it was bent straight and being bent in the other direction, you would have to induce more stress but of opposite magnitude.

Right, wrong, or other it at least gets the cage away from you. ;)

Now for this past whirlwind week - it culminated with what was probably the most stressful weekend at a track/in a race car I've experienced. It was a true test of patience and mechanical sympathy. Thankfully one of my friends was able to make it out both days to help with the car and play pit crew. I don't know how I would have made it without him as the car had several teething issues that we just had to grit our teeth and deal with.

After the 1098 built pressure and was started last week I figured the trackcross (sort of like autocross but with cones on half of the race track) on Wednesday the 23rd would be a good break-in/shake down session. I made a few runs and found the clutch to be slipping like crazy. There was also oil coming out of the dust covers and drain hole on the bellhousing - something was definitely leaking in there. I bought the car home that night and pulled the engine.

Low and behold everything was soaked in oil including the clutch disk. All of the gaskets appeared to be good so it had to be coming from the scroll seal. I had a few spares but the clutch was not a stock clutch and the one that fit was in rough shape; I decided trying to clean it with brake parts cleaner was my best bet. Reading on the internet also made it seem like hooking a vacuum hose from the manifold to the crankcase vent would help to stop the leak.

Thursday afternoon I took a few hours of vacation and left work early to attempt to reinstall the engine. I had until 9:30 pm to cancel the school and have my entry fee refunded. At 8:00 I got the engine started, let it idle for awhile, noticed no leaks, and decided to give it a go. The vacuum hose worked....at least for then. I figured it was also a good time to paint the car so at 11pm out came the red Rustoleum and a roller.

My original plan was to take a few hours of vacation on Friday and head to the track after work. Since the engine issues resulted in all of the little odds and ends not getting done, I spent the morning rushing to get those things and my SCCA Novice Permit completed (they weren't happy with how the medical form was filled out). Everything was finally loaded into the trailer Friday afternoon and off to the track we went.

The classroom session was from 7pm until 9:30pm that evening. I was able to get the car to tech just before heading to class. After class I find that there was some concern over play in the front wheel bearings. I didn't notice it before so I'm guessing bearing retaining compound may have been used and it must have broken loose from running. The result was the play between the hub and the outer races on both sides.

Saturday morning I tried to fix it with some help of a few local SCCA guys; a "new" hub and new bearings were the answer but not an option at that time. We trimmed the conical spacer some and it helped to eliminate some play. Shortly thereafter the first school session began. The slipping clutch returned and required babying of the throttle for the remainder of the weekend (based on 5 quarts of oil going somewhere throughout the course of the weekend I'm guessing the leak isn't fixed - happy belated Earth Day!).

The dash switch, which receives power from the voltage regulator, worked intermittently. We found that switching the master switch on and off would eventually reset something and cause the switch to work so the car could be started. It was less than ideal but it couldn't be fixed at the moment.

Fortunately the routine for the rest of Saturday was baby the gas so as to not cook the clutch, keep the engine oil topped off, make sure there is enough water in the radiator, and keep a full tank of 110 octane. The engine was also assembled with no seals on the exhaust valve guides. It made for a nice smoke screen at partial throttle; it was fine at idle and full throttle. Fortunately the car survived day one and I completed the school.

Students that passed the school on Saturday were allowed to run in the double regional race on Sunday. The vintage group was the first to qualify. I ended up qualifying 7th out of 8 cars thanks to the clutch. Somewhere between qualifying and the first race the charging system decided to throw in the towel; apparently the voltage regulator issues from Saturday got worse. Starting the car required a jump pack and jumping across a relay. Unfortunately the weather was also warmer on Sunday so the lack of a fan caused the car to get warmer than I would have liked in false grid for the two afternoon races. The extra heat caused the idle to come up which caused oil to be sucked past the exhaust valves and pumped out the tail pipe. I was not the favorite person in grid. Once we were under way everything was fine thankfully.

I had a good first race and was running with a 1956 Turner for awhile. My finish was the same as my qualifying position but it was fun and the car survived. The second race was much more stressful - the lack of a charging system began to catch up with the car about half way through. At first the car could only rev to 6,000 rpm. Then 5,500 rpm. Every time around I was praying for the "1" to be displayed at the start/finish line. At last my prayers were answered and shortly there after the race was over.

We put together a list of about a dozen items that need to be addressed to prepare the car for the next outing but overall I would say the weekend was a success. I am now in possession of a PVGP license and will be able to participate in the 2014 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix and I also have an SCCA Novice Permit with one race on it; two more events and I'll have a regional license.

The real icing on the cake was the car - several people recognized it from back in the 70s. Someone arriving Saturday evening for Sunday's race stuck his head out of the RV and asked if that was so-and-so's old car. He pulled out his phone, called the original owner, and told him his car was at the track. Sunday morning a gentleman approached the car as I'm getting ready to go qualify and introduces himself as the original owner. It was really neat being able to talk with him about his racing and the car's history. He also confirmed that the last race was at Road Atlanta in 1981 (three years before I was born!)

A few people took pictures but unfortunately there were too many other things going on to be bothered with a GoPro; I'll post some more pictures later.


SEE! Its more than a car and metal ! She has SOOOOOL!

Very cool story,and keep the story going !
Randy

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PostPosted: April 30, 2014, 8:51 am 
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Andrew
I have seen kits that allow you to put a "real" seal on the back of the crank. That might be an option to look at. Dave W


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PostPosted: April 30, 2014, 8:54 am 
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Always
I checked out that link and hope you did to. I have never seen so many pms.
T


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PostPosted: May 1, 2014, 7:54 pm 
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Always Moore!
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hpbugeye wrote:
you really need to check this guy out, my father and i raced againt the fellers, and they will have some good stuff for sale.


I shot him a message a few weeks ago to see if he had stock engines and never heard back. I guess only having a post or so over there may have gotten me lost in the shuffle. :cry:


davew wrote:
Andrew
I have seen kits that allow you to put a "real" seal on the back of the crank. That might be an option to look at. Dave W


Moss has one for the 1098 but I've read really mixed reviews on all of them. The general consensus seems to be that they work for awhile on street engines but don't hold up during racing.

Part of my to do list will be to pull the engine. I'm going to make a stand and try to run the engine out of the car to help diagnose the exact location of the leak. Plus it will be easier to tell if it was fixed or not and will cost fewer clutches. :mrgreen:

A few more shots of the car after it came off of the trailer after returning home:

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I"m contemplating painting the rest of the car this winter so its all Rustoleum Safety Red but I'll really hate to remove the 1970s era decals that were on the car.

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PostPosted: May 1, 2014, 8:52 pm 
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for stock engine stuff you might check with RJS on the production site.
Ron Sorenson, very cool person.

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PostPosted: May 1, 2014, 11:00 pm 
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IMO you need to paint the wheels white !

Have you tryed PAECO ? for a motor price. They have built some SCCA winners.

Randy :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 2, 2014, 12:28 am 
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a.moore wrote:
I'll really hate to remove the 1970s era decals that were on the car.


Try these guys http://www.isaydingdong.co.uk they've got a great assortment of period racings decals at reasonable prices plus you could get an official Team Slotus decal like the one below.

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Anyway, great looking car. You'll have a lot of fun with it.

Bill

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PostPosted: May 4, 2014, 12:01 pm 
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Always Moore!
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hpbugeye wrote:
for stock engine stuff you might check with RJS on the production site.
Ron Sorenson, very cool person.


Thanks - I'll drop him a line. I guess it would probably be easiest to post a WTB thread and go from there.


B85 wrote:
IMO you need to paint the wheels white !

Have you tryed PAECO ? for a motor price. They have built some SCCA winners.


I'm not really sure if I want another high strung full race motor at this point or not. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping this one will make the season and I can build another engine or two next winter.

I was thinking about white but I don't know if I want to deal with keeping them clean.


BHRmotorsport wrote:
Try these guys http://www.isaydingdong.co.uk they've got a great assortment of period racings decals at reasonable prices plus you could get an official Team Slotus decal like the one below.


Thanks Bill. I'm really liking that site. I'll need to order a few Austin Healey decals to replace some of the missing badging.

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PostPosted: May 18, 2014, 6:06 pm 
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I'm slowly but surely working through the list after last outing. Unfortunately an incident unloading the trailer added "build a new set of headers" to the list. :BH:

First order of business is figuring out how my clutch is becoming a wet clutch.

Locate leak - check (thanks newly built test stand):


It appears that someone created a path between the crank's oil passage and the bore for the pilot bearing. They stuck some sort of pin through it to plug the hole but its leaking. I'm going to attempt fixing it with a little sealant and a freeze plug; hopefully it works.

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PostPosted: May 18, 2014, 6:23 pm 
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Ok, that was both interesting and gross.

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PostPosted: May 18, 2014, 6:41 pm 
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What amazed me was that you stopped the engine in the exact spot such that it drained straight down!

Seriously, that's a pretty crazy/unexpected leak source. I think I'd just drill out whatever's in there and press in a brass plug slathered in sealant.

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