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PostPosted: May 24, 2014, 8:30 am 
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Split this out so as not to hijack my own diesel reverse trike thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=11384&start=150

The latest:

I think the fuel cap was stolen or lost (they don’t lock) water got in and the rest is history. I pulled the pump and level sender from the tank. Water definitely entered at some point. Tank is heavy gauge and solid, but everything inside is ruined. Flushed and soaked to clean.
The sender is a standard pattern flange. The fuel gauge is an odd brand name. I considered just fitting a new sender. I could have used a potentiometer to swing the needle and check the resistance of the pot at full and empty to determine the required sweep values, but the glass is broken on the gauge, which uses the standard 2 inch hole. Replacing with a Sun system (CP8753 $20 and matching $20 gauge).
Fuel pump assembly has a mazda part number which I removed when cleaning before I could document it. The pump appears to be a standard 93 festiva pump and strainer, so I ordered one of those for $35.
Fuel cap fits except for the restrictor to prevent a leaded fuel nozzle from being inserted is welded in too shallow to fully clear. Adjusted to provide clearance. I think the only place one can find leaded fuel now is an airport (100ll).
Exhaust had been cut off. Built an exhaust with a small turbo muffler and mandrel bend and ordered a hanger donut to hold tip. Hope it isn’t too loud. From the stock festiva down pipe donut gasket is 2” od.
Most all hardware is sae ¼-20 pan head and hex head bolts, with only a handful of ¼” self-tappers in blind areas and always with the head on top.
Door latches are basically garage door hardware. There are no oil pressure or water temp gauges, just idiot lights. Requires an electric sender type water temp and oil pressure due to the distance to go around the driver compartment.
Assembled transaxle case halves to support engine through trans mounts and hang starter. Has oil and turns over by hand. Air intake hose from vaf is torn and split but access to the filter was bad anyway.


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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 26, 2014, 5:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: May 24, 2014, 8:41 am 
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Found ac vents from a rv supplier that completely close (to keep trash from falling down in there) for $10 each.


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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 26, 2014, 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: May 31, 2014, 8:32 am 
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I have a low mileage transaxle to install now. Brakes are three festiva front calipers and hoses, non prop valve, with adapters to 3/16 inf hard lines and the festy master and booster.

Plethora of mouse poo, wasp nests in the defroster vents.


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File comment: transaxle, throttle pedal parts
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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 26, 2014, 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: May 31, 2014, 8:37 am 
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The interceptor is being delivered today.


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PostPosted: May 31, 2014, 10:20 am 
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Now, this is truly non-traditional. Which way are you going to go with this? Is it going to look like a real law enforcement vehicle or are you going to take it in some other direction?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 31, 2014, 12:34 pm 
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The city sold it to the public with spray paint over some of the placards so as not to be confused with an official vehicle, plus these placards are about 20 years old and falling off anyway. The city has no vehicles like this anymore.

Just cleaning it up for now. It's been inspected by an officer for a vin check and registration purposes. Adding the word "former" above the placards may be a good idea.

I think riveting on some alclad and polishing would be cool.

Brake lines were so corroded they started leaking when I bent them to pull the master cylinder for rebuild.

Received the interceptor today. Same drivetrain (aspire versus festiva) but independent suspension with coilovers, glass side windows that slide back separately from the door, and a more car-like interior.

06/05, had a new windshield made for the interceptor using the broken one as template for $100. Bought gasket material for the windscreen on the blue one since it was falling apart and the glass had to come out to get to the rest of the rust. Flanges are .093", glass is .240", qtr windows and back glass are .135", plexiglass windows are 1/4".

Had a vin check performed and found the black (actually dark green) interceptor was previously a Florida police vehicle. I'm surprised it has no ac. Had keys made. Ignition switch is an International Harvester 11 blade, 4 position.

Used a fuel tank sealer called KBS from Summit. Appears identical to POR 15. Cleaned out the tank with diluted muriatic, flushed and added phosphoric and water, then flushed and dried before adding sealer. Should be completely cured in a few days. Sealer cleans up easily with acetone.

Pulled the rest of the dash, windshield, and brake booster out to clean out the mouse poo with acetone and remove the rust in the corners. Had to weld up rusted out areas of the windscreen gasket flange. Complete heater system pictured with floor, dash, and defroster vents, which is totally different on the interceptor. AC is separate assembly on p35. Inteceptor does not have ac.


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PostPosted: June 28, 2014, 8:12 am 
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Unlike a festiva or aspire, there was no access to the front right side of the engine. The VAF and filter access was terrible. They eliminated the proprietary relays and used standard 4 and 5 pin relays through out but there are no labels on anything, applicable color codes, or schematics. All the relays were install horizontally under the black L-bracket so water could get into them, the inertia switch was installed on it's side so I doubt it would actually shut off the fuel pump in an accident. The tr module was not installed to a heat sink, and all these components were hung over the exhaust manifold.

When they added the ac system, the main electrical firewall connector and bracket was in the way of the condenser so they just unbolted it and pushed it aside. Lots of wires are cut through from rubbing and they used pinch splices that usually cut the wires they are being connected to to make the ac connections.

I removed everything from the L bracket, turned it around keeping the vertical fin that forms the compartment seal in the same place, then used the condenser mounting bar to hang everything. Note the difference between the first picture in the topic to the ones below.

The VAF has been relocated over the transaxle integrated with a battery mount I made and connected with a 2.5" 180 degree mandrel bent exhaust pipe. Waiting on my silicone reducer and hose to show up.

Most all the bracketry has been stripped, primed, and painted. Poured linseed oil into hollow parts for rust protection.

The original floor mat was crumbing so I used rubber stall mat for horses from tractor supply. It as about $15 for two feet and 3/8" thick by 4 feet wide. Still need to rivet a piece of rigid mud flap to the throttle pedal for a pad .

Cutting out the under floor that was home to the mice and hanging addel clamps from aircraft spruce from the floor to hold the booster vac line, brake line, throttle cable, heater hoses, and wiring bundle. Cutting it out provides access and eliminates the collection of water. I believe the point of enclosing the area was for protection from sparks that occur when the vehicle rolls to where the rub strips contact the ground.

The front and rear windows are back in with new gaskets. The rear glass was only 1/8 inch thick which makes for an oddball gasket but I used the same gasket at the front for 1/4 inch glass per the glass shops recommendation and it worked fine. Didn't require any special tools but was tedious and time consuming.

I need to pickup a pair of honda accord steel 15x5.5 4x114.3 rims to put the highway rpms where I want with this 3 speed automatic with a 3.32:1 final drive. I have a replacement transaxle, but I want to get it running before I install it.


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PostPosted: June 29, 2014, 1:40 pm 
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holy crap! and I thought I cobbled stuff together ;-)

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PostPosted: June 29, 2014, 4:56 pm 
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Yeah, it's a pile.

Made track rollers from stainless hardware since these are an oddball size (large od but very narrow). Dimpled 9/16 washers to hold the bearings with the countersunk screw.

Derustifying and straightening the fenders to paint and install. Then the battery and vaf can go in and the real wiring can begin. Found some relays that were grounding pins 30 and 87.


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File comment: Another view of the crazy wiring.
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File comment: Fit some working gauges to replace hour meter, broken fuel level, and rusted amp meter.
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File comment: Probably add headliner material around a piece of cardboard.
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File comment: brakes and throttle assembled. Rivetted mud flap to throttle pedal.
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File comment: torsion beam case half, overflow mount, vaf and battery mount.
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PostPosted: July 3, 2014, 5:38 pm 
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Ever seen one of these? Too cool.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2014, 9:34 am 
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I pass by this everyday and never go by at a time that I can stop and ask about it.

I have no idea what it is or what engine it uses.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2014, 9:58 am 
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That is a Wildfire truck. It's has 600 or so cc motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LwDEfss7Mk

Building my new seat today and painting the fenders. Letting the kilz dry on the plywood base right now.


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PostPosted: July 6, 2014, 11:04 am 
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REALLY, am I the only one who sees this as the greatest starting point ever for a GRM challenge car. Repower the back and change the front to a full on double A arm race setup. Light weight, ideal weight distribution and a tube style chassis to start from. Lower that driver position and there isn't a Zamboni in the world you couldn't beat up on.

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PostPosted: July 6, 2014, 11:26 am 
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CXheck out these repowered vespa apes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgq56dEv47I

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PostPosted: July 6, 2014, 2:08 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
CXheck out these repowered vespa apes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgq56dEv47I


That was whacky - but fun.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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