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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 3:26 pm 
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A little progress.

I decided to go with new aluminum fenders as close as possible to the right size then rework. I guess they are 3003-H22. These were a little over $100 shipped.

I also decided to correct the engine mount situation. When I bought this, I bolted it in using the original mounts and planned to go back to correct things and never did. The festiva drivetrain has a front and rear trans mount with a single engine mount which is typical. The mfg inverted the trans mounts without reclocking the round front mount. The rear was just hanging by the rubber bond to the metal shell. The engine mount was substituted for a second front trans mount, turned sideways and not clocked for the load.

Also, the drivetrain was tilted forward a lot. Not much of an issue for efi but my float level would suffer. Plus the new fenders would have to be cut to clear the old engine mount. I reworked the old bolt-in front mount since i didn't want to pull the engine and trans out to make new frame brackets. I shortened it to raise the trans an inch and split the shell to add a clamp in order to clock the rubber they way it needs to be. Once that is in, I can design the rear mount to work right side up with a hanging "foot" mount to clear the swing arm.

I also cut the sliding box for more carb clearance and cut down the stock aircleaner which still needs flanging for a finished look.
A few pics....


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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 3:32 pm 
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A few other pics. I also strapped in the fuel cell but didn't take a pic of that.


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PostPosted: June 30, 2018, 3:40 pm 
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few more


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PostPosted: July 1, 2018, 9:26 am 
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Nice work on the exhaust baffle 10.6dB is a BIG improvement. but still, 85 is pretty high. I assume at idle?

Fenders look great.

It seems that I have to improve the number and details of my photo posts. You have killed it with the small details. :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 1, 2018, 10:51 am 
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That is revving it up to about as loud as it can get, plus only 3 feet from the pipe at the same level as the outlet, with plenty of surrounding obstructions to reflect the sound back toward the meter.

Idle with/without insert is 67.6 db / 71.9 db (-4.3 db).

I figured I'd post it here but we talked about it here a couple years ago: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=17503&hilit=22483&start=60

I never performed the 50 foot testing.

We shall see how good the fenders look after I bend them to fit. They also are not bent to the correct angle but the old fenders will be very useful forms. Also annealing between rounds. The steel fender widening was coming along fine but since the rest of the fenders are so rough with pitting, I decided it wasn't worth the effort when new ones are so cheap.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2018, 2:48 pm 
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Check with your local City laws on 3 wheel motorcycles, Here in Cali. only the metermaid vechicle is allowed to drive with no helmet. But now in cali. any 3 wheel enclosed - no helmet... nice build, have fun and be safe. I will be posting my 3 wheel build soon.

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PostPosted: July 6, 2018, 6:52 pm 
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Thanks, yep, very familiar with the rules. I think I have the only road legal GO4 in the State and not by accident. It was a fight all the way and burned me out for a while.

Most of the pics I just posted are very old but I never updated this topic. The GO4 has been road worthy for a couple years or so. I also have a reverse trike project I hope to get back to some day: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=11384&start=150

I noticed your build topic. Looks interesting. Where is the fuel tank going to sit?

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PostPosted: July 19, 2018, 4:34 pm 
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Inverted a new manual trans mount and made it fit since I could not find a supplier for an automatic festiva mount, then built the hanging foot to support the trans, dropped about two inches from where it was when hanging by the rubber. The engine is not perfectly level now but much better. Started fabbing a new engine mount that would also clear the new fender without cutting a hole it like the original and clear the timing cover while aligning with a frame rail that isn't exactly parallel, so the new bracket is twisted a bit in all directions but it works. Left fender is bit closer to shape and fits the frame now but I think I'll drop it down for a better fit to the tire. Still working the flanges. I also need to move the wheels forward an inch to center them in the fenders.


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PostPosted: September 3, 2018, 8:06 am 
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Some updates…
I had built the battery mount to accept a 26r top post, but when it died, I compared cca for common battery sizes. For the same price as the 26r, fit a 78 with 150 extra cca for the same price. Just a couple inches longer plus it has side posts.

The throttle cable I made before from bicycle brake housing and 1/16 stainless wire rope is too short, so I fabbed a new assembly from nylon hose and 3/32 316 stainless wire rope, covering the hose between the clamps from aircraft spruce with ¼” corrugated split loom and 3/8 fire sleeve over the engine. I think the old stainless cable was 18-8 or 304 without moly for the extra corrosion resistance because I could not solder the 316 alloy after acid treatment. I just used #8 nuts in a vise to act as wire stops and frayed the end so hopefully that will be adequate. I’m sure that will be the weak link. I can always use two instead of one on each end. The cable was about 40 cents per foot if memory serves, 7x19 316 stainless 3/32.

Using hose without end fittings required changes to the throttle pedal assy and fabbing a new bracket at the engine. I also added stainless torsion springs to the pedal, relocated the quadrant pivot for better geometry and drilled new pivot points in the quadrant for more cable travel and eliminate the falling ratio. I also made the cable removable without cutting.

The elbow I brazed to the lower water neck didn’t fit after relocating the engine so I reworked and brazed that. Of course, the $6 o ring on the bypass tube was damaged. I debated on brazing a male flare on the neck to eliminate the o ring but decided not to for now and order another o ring.

I finished the fenders and splash guards. They turned out great, but it required an external jig from 2 inch angle iron, wood blocks on the inside, lots of c clamps, and an oxy/acetylene rose bud tip. Previous posts of fenders are not the final result of the metal work. Fabbed new latches to hold the doors open since they have to be about 2 inches further forward to clear the new fenders at the front, which provide more coverage. I moved the wheels forward an inch or so on the swing arm as well for best fender clearance.

Modded the stock festy 10lb aircleaner to an open element. Rolled the lid edges so it looks ok and brazed a 3/8 brake line to the base for the bowl vent. Welded a ¼-20 rod to the festy aircleaner stud to use a standard wing nut since I did not have the festy wingnut.

Now that I have a battery in it again, I still need to do the wiring for the fuel pump, choke, carb bowl vent sol, dizzy, and float level sender that came with the fuel cell, if it is compatible. Otherwise I’ll adapt something that is.

Also fabbed a new left exhaust hanger since the fuel cell was in the way of the old one.

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