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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 10, 2014, 6:50 pm 
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I tried an early ranger 60/40 drivers side with arm rest seat, but it didn't fit well at all.

Found a wire wheel in a drill works great for shaping foam, but it takes a very steady hand and the foam has to be supported on something solid. A hacksaw blade works well for cutting with very little pressure and a lot of back and forth motion.

Finished the overflow/evap can mount and the battery/vaf/fuel filter mount, which hangs off the fender, also finished. Most everything was brushed with rusty metal primer then aerosol painted.The new trans will go in before I hang all this stuff, followed by the wiring when all the parts are in place.

Used "tee nuts" to replace the lag bolts holding the seat frame to the plywood backing. They are 4 for about $1 at Home Depot and work fantastic. These a 1/4-20.

You may be wondering about the notch in the right fender. It's for the top engine mount.

Bought silicone hoses for vaf to tb in blue. Then the seller called and said they were out of blue and offered black. Said ok to send both hoses in black, so they sent the straight hose only. Sent them an email and they sent a blue reducer. I'm just glad to get the hoses.

Worked on the seats. Wrapped foam in fleece for smoothing, then a trash bag to help keep water out, then the vinyl. The back is open to allow ventilation and drying. I need a sheet of 1/8 masonite for the headliner and to cover the back rest which can be seen through the rear window. Eventually I'll redo them with a sewed cover in sunbrella fabric but just trying to get this thing driveable first. I just did this with leftovers laying around. Bottom cushion is 3" foam, back is 2 inch foam. Seat frame and tracks were moved further apart for better support for two people. Tracks were so rusty I had a hard time getting them apart, but they are also finished. I worked on them a while and thought, why am I doing this? Then I checked Speedway, but they want about $40 shipped, about the same out the door if I picked up a set a Summit, so I kept working on the old ones.

The seat mount holes in the aluminum panel were oversize, cracked radially from no support and corroded. Reinforcing with a piece of c channel.

We had 100% humidity with intermittent rain today. Otherwise I could have been more productive. I need to take a pic fo the finished seat to post.


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PostPosted: July 23, 2014, 6:10 pm 
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I need a sheet of acrylic 2'x5'x1/4" to make slides for each door, at a cost of about $150.

I tried 1500 grit wet sanding then polishing with plastic polish I bought at walmart for headlights and a drill arbor and foam pad from autozone for about $6. Made a huge improvement and could be improved further, but it is close enough for now.

The tire I had put on to get this thing home is a 175-70-13 and too wide to fit between the forks even with the axle adjusted as far to the right as possible. The correct size is 155-80-13 so I picked up one of those to install. The rears are getting up sized as much as practical for the gearing.

Seat is also good enough for now. Moving on.

Made some improvements to the hbf tire changer. It was mounted to a wood pallet but that made it bulky and heavy when not in use. The extensions were free scrap 2"x3x".125" from my new steel supplier. Added scrap shims below the dowel rod so it would keep the rod from c0cking when tightening the wheel down. Dowel was also way too long. Made a rim saver adapter to replace the spider from a water pipe bulkhead flange. Ground out the threads with a porting bit and it fits perfectly and is also reversable.


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PostPosted: July 29, 2014, 10:14 am 
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Still need to source thick sheet aluminum to finish the duct. I also have a heavy duty rv cooler for the transaxle.


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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 26, 2014, 6:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: July 31, 2014, 6:17 pm 
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Mounted and balanced the new front tire and fenders. This will rivet to the floor and have a flange for bolting to the rear wall and seat base. Installed the transcooler on the radiator (derale 22,500 gvwr should be adequate).


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Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on December 26, 2014, 6:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: August 30, 2014, 1:19 pm 
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It's a roller! Technically it never rolled for me before. It was tough getting it on the tow dolly.

Transaxle, swing arm, spindles and hubs are in. Aligned. Had to fab shims from 1/4" plate for tire clearance to the swing arm on the right side. 155-80-13 front, 175-70-13 rears for now. Wasn't sure how much room I was going to have to upsize.

Trans cooler added to radiator and framed for ducting. Looks odd back on the ground.

Lined through the parking enforcement placards with 1 inch aluminum tape.


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PostPosted: September 2, 2014, 6:27 pm 
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Found some action photos from the 1996 movie carpool. Looks safe enough. What could go wrong?

10/02, Completed:
Brakes: all new lines, hoses, calipers, line clips, addel clamps, rebuilt master, converted 6 foot booster hose to hard line.
Heater: rerouted and added support with addel clamps throughout.
Fuel: replaced and relocated filter, added 5/16 hard lines and addel clamps to replace 6 foot hoses.
Ventilation: cut plastic gutter guard mesh with screen backing to fit inside duct outlets and hot glued in place to prevent wasps from building nests in ducting. Common problem in the South unless you have a ventilation filter. Made block off plates from .080” 6061 to cover holes left by ac vents in bench.

Came with “Single wire” alternator setup with no sensing. Need another connector and pin to add that.
Found they didn’t bother to install the throttle pedal kickdown for the automatic transaxle. Ordered a micro lever switch to control the kickdown solenoid.
Key switch is bad. High resistance between BAT and IGN in the run position. Ordered another for $14.
Ordered two accessory ports to install for gps, camera,etc.
Traced out all the wiring. This is the worst wiring job I’ve ever seen based solely on the actual connections. Rewiring per 90-93 Ford Festiva schematics including fuse and relay labeling for some clarity.
Came with 10 relays and 12 fuse positions, but few were actually used and none were wired properly when I received it. Actually needs 6 relays and 13 fuses. Needed two universal fuel pump relays since I do not have oem dual control fuel pump relay.
FUSES
HOT (6):
HEAD, 15A, HEAD LIGHT RELAY FEED, ALT SENSING
ROOM, 10A, RADIO MEMORY, INTERIOR LIGHTS
STOP, 15A, BRAKE SWITCH
HAZ, 15A, HAZARD SWITCH
MAIN, 25A, ALT OUTPUT, PARK RELAY
EGI, 15A, MAIN RELAY FEED
RUN (3):
WIPER, 15A, WIPER MOTOR
HEATER, 15A, HEATER BLOWER
FAN, 20A, TO FAN OR FAN RELAY
RUN OR START (2):
ENGINE, 10A, TO MAIN RELAY CONTROL, ECM
METER, 10A, A/T KICKDOWN, MIL, T/S, INSTR PWR, COOLING FAN CONTROL, REV LTS
RUN OR ACC (1):
CIGAR, 15A
OTHER (1):
TAIL, 15A, VIA PARK RELAY TO EXTERIOR LIGHTS AND INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
RELAYS (6)
Parking lights, Head lights, Fuel pump starting, Fuel pump running, Fan, Main
Wiper pinout (no connector, just multiple spade terminals with blue wire):
LHPSX, L ow, H igh, P ark, S unused, X ground. Case is also grounded with jumper.
Made a basic layout of components in ms paint to save for each mode/system routing.


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PostPosted: October 5, 2014, 3:43 pm 
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Finally getting to the wiring phase.


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PostPosted: October 16, 2014, 7:21 am 
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Had to replenish my electrical supplies. If anyone is looking for shielded sensor wire to relocate vafs, mafs, etc, I found it for $1.15/foot on Ebay.

Made a new fuse panel from a scrap piece of floor panel. Old setup was 3 banks of 4 fuses and a flasher sideways (hard to access) with all the relays in back and a 4th bank under the seat for the ac system.
New setup puts all 4 together for 16 fuses, adds headlight and parking relays correctly oriented for access, adds a few spots for spare fuses, and recesses the whole thing a little deeper into the dash.

Steering wheel was not designed to be removable and I had to remove the column to access the combination switch for wipers, ts, head lights, etc. There were no holes in the wheel hub, .125" gap between the hub and support bearing, and the plastic molded around the hub protruded forward. I cut off the wheel, removed the plastic, and welded a mounting plate for a grant wheel. I'm think a little 10" kart wheel.


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PostPosted: October 19, 2014, 6:56 am 
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Found the last wasp nest in the column. The only opening is through the windows for the stalks. Adding foam around stalks to fill the gap.

Upper column is retained only by the ujoint. Black plate is ½ thick and bored all the way through (no register) to accept a sealed bearing that is a snug fit to the shaft. Welded .125” plate to the boss and drilled to accept standard Grant wheel pattern. Welded ¼-20 nuts to the front.

Wheel shown is for the reverse trike. Bought smaller 10” kart wheel for this.
Pic of fuse panel will be reduced to fit inside cover panel then covered with packing tape to waterproof.

Oops!: http://www.berkeleyside.com/2014/05/30/ ... ches-fire/

11/09/2014:
Only have EGI and ENGINE fuses left to wire, aft relay bank, inertia sw, evap can sol, TR module, and VAF wiring. All forward wiring, heater, wiper, horn, turn, head, park, hazard, reverse, interior, stop, beacon/strobe, and instrument lights are finished as well as the water temp and oil pressure gauges added and wired.
Added a manifold to the upper radiator hose to fit the water temp sensor which also requires a ground wire. I had a spare BPT to NPT adapter from Mcmaster for the oil pressure sensor but the water temp sensor was too big to fit through it and I didn’t want to retap the head for NPT.
CIGAR circuit wired for two accessory outlets and added a pig tail with an insulated spade terminal when crimping the fuse block terminal just in case I want to add a radio and need the memory circuit.
Speedo is a prestolite so I found the schematics for that online and the bulb is an instrument light from a 70s GM car.
The rheostat for dimming the instruments was bad so I installed one for a bus. Just need to switch from spade to eye terminals. Otherwise identical.
Added a kick down switch to the intake actuated by the throttle cable quadrant on the throttle body instead of the throttle pedal.
Added a grounding stud to frame near the aft relays consisting of a ¼-20x1” all thread flange head bolt through a flange with the paint removed for good conductivity but greased for corrosion, with a second nut to secure the eyelets to the stud.
Hung doors on stainless track rollers I made. Trike used tubing along bottom of door to secure it, with a plastic push pin as a rub point on the door, but they are ugly, easily bent, and not very adjustable. I’ve made new guides from angle iron that are less noticeable and easier to adjust.
Need to plumb valve cover vent into my fabbed, mandrel bent intake pipe but it is almost directly on top of it. May need to make a sheet metal box kick out on the pipe to cover the port and use a grommet.
I like the little kart steering wheel; fits the character of it.


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PostPosted: November 13, 2014, 1:08 pm 
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SF Chef:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ifc1vuR4YQY


GO-4 for sale in North Carolina with a test drive video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYizJWQN8zM

Just chasing the few wires left over from POs before brake bleed (need brake pedal installed to bleed which requires plate over fuse panel) then first start attempt.

I needed a new throttle cable. The old one was much thinner than an oem throttle cable. Looked to be bicycle cable with threaded ends crimped on. I pulled the ends off after drilling the dimple in the crimp, then fit a 5mm bicycle brake cable housing with teflon liner (about $1 per foot) and used 1/16" 7x19 304 stainless wire rope (also about $1 per foot).

For the throttle body end, I used a 1/4" bolt that was long enough to have an adequate shank length, then drilled and flatted the sides and cut off the threads. I used Lenox acid (about $10) for soldering stainless to solder the ends to prevent unraveling.
I took an electrical butt splice for 14-16 ga wire, cut it in half, removed the plastic sleeve and crimped it to the end of the cable. I then soldered the crimp sleeve to the cable. The most expensive part was the acid, but I'm sure there are cheaper alternatives. As for locost, if you already have the acid, it works out to about $2/foot for a very high quality cable any length you want.


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PostPosted: November 6, 2015, 9:08 am 
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Given my ordeal, I’m fairly confident I have the first street legal Westward trikes in Georgia. I’d like to thank everyone involved from the Governor down, and I believe this exercise will be used by the State to make internal process improvements at the dmv.

I’ve had the 92-93 trike on the road for a while now, making short trips. It is more stable than I expected, shifts into high gear (3rd) at about 45 mph, but requires additional ducting between the seat and radiator as the temp quickly crawls up to 210 from 190 above 45 mph, with the fan on. I’m also replacing the original radiator and adding a stronger fan. If I’d left the AC condenser and large pusher fan installed, it may have been okay but I’d like to have enough airflow that the fan(s) do not run all the time at speed.

I test fit larger rear wheels using a fiero wheel to check clearances, then purchased custom offset 15 inch black powder coat wheels through Jegs to go on back to drop the rpms, but I haven’t had time to make flared fenders to clear them.

I’d built an induction pipe to go between the tb and vaf, since the original was falling apart and the vaf was relocated further away. It was mandrel bent tube matching the tb od. As a result, the trike would not go up hills. This engine doesn’t have the typical tps and relies on the vaf to register throttle changes initiated at the tb, so there was too great a delay in response with such a large volume of air between them. I built a smaller od induction pipe which made all the difference.

I raised the door window lower tracks with 6061-o .080” so I could use standard sized acrylic windows and fit one piece windows with static cling tint. Adhesive tint doesn’t work well with acrylic due to outgassing of the plastic and difficulty of removing the adhesive without damaging the acrylic.

I decided to remove most of the original placards so as not to be accused of impersonating a meter maid, though impersonating involves an act as well as appearance, and I don’t wish to be forced to have the discussion.

Adjustable mirrors and a glass mount standard auto rear view were added inside.
Also made a steering column lock to allow towing backwards.

Not the most recent pictures...


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PostPosted: November 6, 2015, 9:30 am 
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Glad to see you back, MiataV8. :cheers:

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My build log:
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My build video:
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PostPosted: November 6, 2015, 9:43 am 
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Thanks. Needed a break from myself...

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PostPosted: November 7, 2015, 1:18 pm 
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Yo, MV8!
Good to hear from you! Thought you'd wandered off somewhere... Welcome back, Sir!
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: November 7, 2015, 4:11 pm 
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Thanks JD!

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