LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 29, 2024, 7:02 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 373 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: June 4, 2015, 10:43 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
KB58 wrote:
Sure, reinstall the steering wheel after you get out. 99.999% of people won't understand that it's removable, and those that do understand what it is and will leave it alone.


Unfortunately I live in a city in which the crime index rating for larceny is several times that of the national average. I lived in Santa Cruz, CA for a while going to school at UCSC, and the demeanor of the folks in that California beach town were not as eager to put someones' car up on jack stands and steal their wheels--unlike questionable San Antonio, TX residents.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 5, 2015, 7:59 am 
Offline

Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
LateralScience wrote:
Since this will primarily be a road car, one concern I have is the steering wheel getting stolen in the parking lot when I go into a restaurant or store. .


I wasn't so much worried about the B-3s ($30 Grant 13 inch slotted chrome with foam grip) steering wheel getting stolen, as the B-3 itself, under those same conditions. So, I have a passenger grab handle that bolted thru both the dash panel and the steel cowl hoop support strut behind it, and whenever I get out and am going to leave the vehicle for a while, I pull the steering wheel off the column (Speedway motors splined QD, yeah I know, its got a pretty loose fit, can be rattly at idle, but don't really notice any play while driving.) and using a long-hasp padlock, lock it to the pasenger grab handle.

you can just see it in this view.

Attachment:
20150513_190624.jpg


that's a neat grant wheel you've picked out. and I agree, the back end of the car does ahave a nice CAN-AM-ish vibe...if only there was an inline transaxle poking out there, right?

I did weld u-joints onto the steering shafts in a couple places and I honestly couldn't tell any difference in the movement or joint tightness before and after, and after 5300+ miles of driving and not being particularly gentle with it, I still can't. on the other hand, the u-joints I was welding on were beefy-ish VW Jetta take-offs, soooo, YRMV.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 6, 2015, 11:07 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
The Grant 613 wheel came in and I wasn't very impressed with the build quality. :-?

Attachment:
Grant 613 wheel close up. QC check..jpg


Obviously this will not be a show car, however the construction looks very bad, and most of all it VERY flexible in my hands. I can bend it ~1/2" out of plane by hand. Not very confidence inspiring. It would be rather disappointing if a spoke broke off in my hand while driving. I think I will just bite the bullet for a Momo Mod 27. Momo has some experience making steering wheels, and is essentially standard equipment on BTCC cars, WRC cars, and 90's LMP Le Mans prototypes. I believe the Momo Mod 26 is standard on several Caterhams models. I've contacted Summit Racing to see what their policy is on returning steering wheels.

The Sweet Mfg quick release hub came in today, and there was a VERY little bit of axial play, however "adjusting" the aluminum washer behind the snap ring removed essentially ALL axial play. There is also ZERO rotational play between the male and female splines. Made in Kalamazoo Michigan.
Attachment:
Sweet Mfg QD splined hub.jpg


My only complaint with the hub is that it arrived with a good number of scratches and rather prominent gash on the red anodized finish--but nothing structural. Also would it kill Sweet Mfg. to coat the splines in a little oil before packaging them up for storage and sales, as there are a few rust spots already.

In other news, in the last couple of months I've been playing with the idea of force feeding the engine. I figured if I'm spending all of this time and effort building a performance car, might as well build it to scare the $hit out of me:

May I present Mr. Eaton:
Attachment:
Eaton M90 Supercharger.jpg


The venerable M90 positive displacement Roots type blower. Granted peak power will be lower compared to a turbocharger, but the area under the power curve will obviously be greater than my current NA application. Due to the counter clockwise rotation of the B-series, and the clockwise rotation of the blower, my thoughts were to cut the current manifold plenum off, add a box in place of the plenum in which the SC would bolt to, and run a counter shaft through the plenum box with mounted bearings on both sides. Clearing the blower within the rear triangulation stays may be tricky.

The price I paid for the blower as insanely low, but I'll need to buy an M90 rebuild kit with new bearings, seals, and gear oil. From what I recall in autocross, 2nd gear low-mid rpm punch out of the corners was key.

The introduction of FI now brings an elephant into the room of what to do with the 12.5:1 compression ratio, and big Skunk2 Pro 3 cams of the currently assembled engine. The reasonable person would have the JE pistons machined flat to ~10:1 CR, and go back to the stock B16 cams.

However considering the success of the 4 cylinder Cummins Ethos engine, which was optimized boosted SI engine to run 12.5:1 compression on E85 making 450 ft-lbs of torque, makes me want to experiment with high compression, high boost and E85, and exploit the higher octane rating of E85, as well as the evaporative cooling characteristics of this oxygenated fuel.

The best I've seen with a roots type SC on a B-Series is 292.7 hp, 212 lb.ft, (180 ft-lbs at 3k rpm) with a JRSC setup on pump gas. I'm curious to see if the 300 hp barrier can be breached on ethanol with more boost.

Hardware wise, a teflon lined stainless steel fuel cell, with ethanol friendly foam would be needed, along with perhaps ~1300cc injectors, high flow inline fuel pump, stainless steel fuel rail, teflon lined fuel hoses, and a continental flex fuel sensor would be needed. I can adjust my Innovate LM-2 such that the Bosch LSU 4.9 WB sensor reads output lamba for a 9.9 AFR.

I've been told by many to hold off on the blower, and learn the car and iron out the bugs before going for more torque, but if I intend on eventually running the blower, the chassis and the rest of the car will need to make accommodations for it. In terms of the added weight of the blower alone, it weighs 18.2 lbs.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 10, 2015, 9:51 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Gents,

I'm currently in the process of bending the dash bar tube member to capture one of two steering column bearings. I picked up a HF tube roller, welded together a stand, watched a few videos on how to use it, and started bending my last stick of 4130 chromoly.

Well...it turned out pretty badly. One side has a larger radius than the other, and the other side is crimped. I suppose this is where an experience technician would have probably worked out best.

Nevertheless, for your enjoyment, here is my work gone wrong:
Attachment:
bending tubing.jpg

On the first bend on the left, the set screws were tight, and rotated the bending wheel 45 degrees from the vertical, going in 1/4 turns at a time on the die screw. The second bend on the right, i did the same thing, but didn't notice the cheap HF set screws coming loose, and the workpiece essentially remained static. I'll need to drill holes through the roller die shaft and ensure the die does not slip.

The HF tube roller:
Attachment:
HF tube roller and homemade stand.jpg

Using this tool is REALLY hard work.

If I gradually walk the dies back and forth on the workpiece and gradually induce the bend, then it works out "okay", but with a fair bit of crimping on the underside of the bend. The top of the bend flattens out.

I'm CERTAINLY open to ideas for improvement, especially from the seasoned tube bending veterans on this site. I suppose this serves me right for doing the bend on the real thing only after having ONE practice run on a piece of scrap tubing.

Thoughts?


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 11, 2015, 8:06 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3365
Location: Summerville, SC
Take the tube roller back to Harbor Freight and get your money back. It's fair at making long sweeping bends.

You'd be better for that piece with the tube bender I build and the right die.
Attachment:
20150419_162131_resized.jpg


I bought the die on ebay for $130 and had the other bits lying about the garage. That's a die for 1 1/2. I've bent 1 1/2, 1 1/4, and 1 with it past 90 degrees without kinking.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 11, 2015, 9:14 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6414
Location: West Chicago,IL
^x2

What you have there is not a tube "bending" tool. Well, maybe it is :cheers: It is normally for making long curved tubes like the main frame tubes of an atomesque build.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 11, 2015, 11:46 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Thanks for the feedback guys. I was planning on using the roller to make the Locost Book Chassis shoulder tubes which have a long sweeping bend.
Attachment:
image.jpg


I was hoping to use this tool to also bend the dashboard tube.

I wonder if there is a way of adapting a larger radius die to the roller and make wings which move the bottom dies further out, similar to the SWAG off road kit with a bottle jack. Perhaps filling the tube full of sand beforehand?


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 11, 2015, 4:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
Posts: 1343
Location: Denver Co
If I new you were in the market for a HF roller i would have just given you mine! I never could get the thing to work right. Mainly i didn't have the patience for it!

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 11, 2015, 10:28 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
mjalaly wrote:
If I new you were in the market for a HF roller i would have just given you mine! I never could get the thing to work right. Mainly i didn't have the patience for it!


I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands. The dies could easily be re-purposed for this:
Attachment:
HF dies.jpg


It looks like a JD Bender would be the way to go:
Attachment:
jd2.JPG


However the JD tool is ALOT more money than I want to spend. Considering I am only making FOUR bends, for tubes which are more or less for aesthetics, I can't justify spending alot. I'm wondering if it might be cheaper to just bring it to a shop.

I think Too Busy has the right idea. $150 on ebay:
Attachment:
Woodward 1 inch die.JPG

Just add frame and bottle jack.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 12, 2015, 3:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 13, 2011, 9:19 am
Posts: 1343
Location: Denver Co
LateralScience wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
If I new you were in the market for a HF roller i would have just given you mine! I never could get the thing to work right. Mainly i didn't have the patience for it!


I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands. The dies could easily be re-purposed for this:
Attachment:
HF dies.jpg


It looks like a JD Bender would be the way to go:
Attachment:
jd2.JPG


However the JD tool is ALOT more money than I want to spend. Considering I am only making FOUR bends, for tubes which are more or less for aesthetics, I can't justify spending alot. I'm wondering if it might be cheaper to just bring it to a shop.

I think Too Busy has the right idea. $150 on ebay:
Attachment:
Woodward 1 inch die.JPG

Just add frame and bottle jack.


You cover shipping and i will send it your way...

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 12, 2015, 10:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
PM sent. Thank you sir!

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 17, 2015, 11:35 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
After doing more research in regards to tube bending, I made my own tube bender using HF tube roller dies as Too Busy suggested:
Attachment:
homemade tube bender.jpg

Cheap harbor freight bottle jack with a 19" stroke. The top arm rolls one die around the stationary die. Unlike the HF hydraulic pipe bender, this arrangement gradually moves the section being bent instead of concentrating the bend in one area.

It sucks some of my better welds won't make it to the car:
Attachment:
tube bender plate welds.jpg


I picked up a 3/4" ID conduit tube bender for $30, and machined it out to 1" to make a 6" radius die:
Attachment:
conduit bender die.jpg


Packed the tube full of play sand and covered the ends of the tube:
Attachment:
Sand.jpg


MUCH better result:
Attachment:
dash bar member with 6 inch radius bends.jpg


Very little ovalizing of the tube, and no kinking at the ends. Steering column tab and steering column bearing in place.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 7, 2015, 8:50 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 18, 2014, 11:20 pm
Posts: 185
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Still trucking along...

Got a couple of things done since my last update:

-Installed dash bar
-cut steering shafts and set up steering column bearings
-installed quick release hub on steering wheel
-Made drastic change to front end to allow for increased steering angle (reduced splay of front LCA and UCA)
-Remade front trailing inboard UCA and LCA mounts

I'm fairly sure I severely underestimated the difficulty in getting to this point:
Attachment:
Drivers seat view.jpg


Also, the Caterham nosecone came in:
Attachment:
Caterham Nosecone.jpg


It looks like it fits pretty well. I'll need to make tabs to retain it.

I'm nowhere near ready for body panels yet, as I still need to route brake lines, pick out master cylinders, fully weld the chassis, etc...etc...


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
There is no such thing as mechanical failure, only a lack of attention to detail.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 8, 2015, 6:37 am 
Offline

Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
looks great! the dash hoop is elegant.

_________________
The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: July 8, 2015, 8:55 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
Posts: 3365
Location: Summerville, SC
I like the tube bender you built. How long of an arc can you make?
Mine barely goes past 90 degrees

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 373 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 19 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY