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PostPosted: November 19, 2014, 10:41 am 
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I can see having the table on the floor for laying out the major components and designing the body. You do plan on raising it on sawhorses or something for the actual chassis fabrication though, right?

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PostPosted: November 19, 2014, 1:20 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
I can see having the table on the floor for laying out the major components and designing the body. You do plan on raising it on sawhorses or something for the actual chassis fabrication though, right?


This build will be done a bit differently. Normally the frame is completed before the rest of the car is built. With this one I plan to mock up the complete car then decide if I want to go forward. I already have a Locost so this one better be a better car or I'll take it apart and do something else. I plan on using the drive train from my Locost for this one so it better make me want to take car #1 apart. I have a dummy Miata engine and transmission plus another diff so I can pretty much finish this car before taking #1 apart.

If the car does turn out to be a keeper, I'll blow it apart and begin welding the frame and body. Since I don't weld so well on my back I'll need to reposition the body a few times. I might try making a rotisserie or hang the body from the ceiling like I did with my Mini.
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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 4:51 pm 
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OSPHO

I have this thing about clean nuts and bolts. It might be because I am an engineer and understand the importance of coefficient of friction in torqueing. But maybe, just maybe, it is because I started out with VW Beetles and every fastener on those cars would rust solid. All I had was a minimum of wrenches, some screw drivers and one hammer. I didn’t even have duct tape (it was called racer’s tape back then). About 90% of the time on anything I did on my Beetles was chewed up getting those darn bolts off. We won’t even go into snapping off those tiny little bleeders on the wheel cylinders. When I got my first RX7 I couldn’t believe that Mazda had plated all of the fasteners. My life got so much better and not just because of having more than double the horsepower.

Ospho has been mentioned on this site a few times but it wasn’t until rx7locost posted about soaking fasteners that I went looking for it. People had said it could be found at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Nope, both places said they don’t carry it. The Ospho site says Ace or Truevalue has it. Nope again, I was told that they don’t carry it. So who does? Amazon does. I’m not sure if mine came by truck or by drone, I wasn’t home and the cats wouldn’t say. Anyway here it is.

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You really don’t can’t see from the picture how rusty the nut and washer on the right are. I soaked them overnight and they turned out great. I haven’t gotten a lot done on the build this week because I’ve been soaking and painting nuts, bolts and washers. Too bad I can’t soak this subframe.

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I’ll wire brush it and spray it with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. If the car turns out well, I’ll send it off for blast and powder coating.

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 5:04 pm 
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you might not be able to soak it in ospho, but you could certainly do the battery charger rust removal on it assuming you can lay hands on a big plastic tub

I did all the rusty bits on my MGA project several years ago.

you could also use Eastwood or Corroseal on it

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 5:08 pm 
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Looks to me like the Mild Pace (Verde) works even better than the OSPHO, and it's "Great for dipping" parts in too! :mrgreen:

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Last edited by Driven5 on November 20, 2014, 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 5:25 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
Mild Pace (Verde)


I saw that after I posted and thought I might catch some flack for the mild part. Pennsylvania Dutch food is known for being extremely bland so everyone would think I was just a local. My wife and I are from a bit south of Buffalo and are very familiar with the real Buffalo wings. I even ate at the original Anchor Bar and everything, Honest. Its just old age that makes me eat that mild stuff. :wink:

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 5:29 pm 
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The PA Dutch food may be bland, but Ohio Amish is pretty tasty. Not spicy, but tasty.

Get rid of the New York City sauce

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 8:59 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
you might not be able to soak it in ospho, but you could certainly do the battery charger rust removal on it assuming you can lay hands on a big plastic tub


I haven't got one big enough to do it all at once but I have one that could do it one half at a time. Tell me more I've never heard of this.

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PostPosted: November 20, 2014, 9:34 pm 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9us16ZaZgo

arm and hammer washing soda and a battery charger

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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 9:06 am 
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The Ospho will leave a slightly rust resistant finish, not so the battery methods. Probably the best stuff available is POR15 Metal Ready, which contains phosphoric acid and zinc. Brush it on the parts after derusting and let it work a few minutes. No need to soak parts in it if they are not rusty.

Bill


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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 11:11 am 
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You should be able to brush the Ospho on and let it sit and then hose it down.

Baking soda works fine for the electrolysis removal. I did a truck leaf spring recently so I could make a proper machete for one of my kids.

I don't think your idea for frame construction is bad, but I'm wondering about including the sub frames and sticking so strongly to the stock suspension. You can just copy the stock suspension and then you still get a little freedom to arrange it differently.

Screams Shoo Fly Pie and leaves the room.

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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 11:23 am 
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Glad you found something you like for rust removal. The "ospho" (or any other phosphoric based metal prep) will provide the necessary short term rust prevention in the form of "iron phosphate" after cleaning. BTW, it is not necessary for the "OSPHO" brand. My local HD has in the store;


Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch @ $15.78 per gallon:

Model # GKPA30220
Internet # 100406369
Store SKU # 584293


:cheers:

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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 9:45 pm 
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TooBusy wrote:
arm and hammer washing soda and a battery charger


I watched the video and it spoke to my inner Mythbuster. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to take my wife's storage bin like ol' pete, I think it is safer to buy one. It took him 5 days to get his part clean, did yours take days?

horizenjob wrote:
You should be able to brush the Ospho on and let it sit and then hose it down.


I read somewhere about soaking a rag in it and leaving the rag spread out on the surface. Not as interesting as hooking it up to electricity. :twisted:

horizenjob wrote:
I don't think your idea for frame construction is bad, but I'm wondering about including the sub frames and sticking so strongly to the stock suspension. You can just copy the stock suspension and then you still get a little freedom to arrange it differently.


I had thought about making a fixture off my Locost frame to locate the br@ckets then using the suspension parts off my Locost when the car was ready. That seemed like a lot of work when I could just use the stock stuff. Same with making a fixture from the stock subframe and welding br@ckets from that. Might be that I just wanted to try it to see how it turns out. There's going to be a lot of that on this car. Some stuff will get done just because I've never tried it before.

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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 9:51 pm 
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My rusty, crusty suspension parts took about 3 days at 2 amps

I did a bunch of smaller parts in 24 hours

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: November 21, 2014, 11:14 pm 
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The Exocet uses all the stock pieces and it makes build up a snap.

http://www.ozclubbies.com.au/index.php?/topic/9602-first-exocets-are-off-the-line/

Read on to about page 8 or 9 and see them building one in 2 days or something like that.

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