LocostUSA.com

If you are in a hurry, muriatic acid for driveways will remove it but must be greatly diluted with water to prevent very nasty fumes. Followup with phosphoric metal etch in a spray bottle after rinsing away acid.

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MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447

I just happen to have some too. Sounds like a project for next weekend when I can do it out back not in the garage.

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888

One car that I have always liked was the MG Airline Coupe. I submit this as a design concept.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

I like that Airline Coupe too, Chuck. Great lookin' little car. Probably about the size of a Se7en chassis too...

What you tink, 87K?


JD

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I like this also. I imagine there was a time that it was considered a "two seater"........

I like it too but this time around I'm looking to be longer than a 7. I've set the engine back 2" further than it is in my Locost plus I want the sloped back end like the MGA. I had considered just changing the fenders and adding the back to my Locost but the need for a roof and doors killed that idea. Besides I need extra width because my wife won't fit in my car which brought me a lot of grief.

The Airline Coupe would be a good car to build from Spridget parts. Hmmmm..

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888

There's an MG PB Airline Coupe here in Vancouver, and I can tell you its very small. There are a ton of details on it that are amazing given how old it is. If I were to ever stumble across a PA or PB chassis it would be a tough decision whether to build a Airline Coupe or a Q-type body.

Rod

ELECTROLYSIS PART II

I went into the garage last night to start working on the car for the first time since the holiday. My plan was to give the rear subframe a quick scrub with the wire brush, spray it with Extend and move on. The part of the subframe that had been in the tank had a crust of rust and detergent that needed to be removed so the Extend could grab the regular rust. To my surprise, the crust brushed right off revealing clean steel underneath.



I still plan on trying the muriatic acid on the other side but I was happy that the electrolysis worked better than I thought.

DESIGN

I put the rear suspension back together and placed the Miata seats on the table to get a look at the wheelbase. The way I have things positioned on the table, the wheelbase is 106” which is just 2” shorter than my V70 wagon. It is also 14” longer than my Locost. I have the stock Miata power plant frame in place. I have a shortened PPF in my Locost and plan to keep it here as well, but it looks like I will be needing to cut and reweld it.



I’ll need to mock up the steering column and pedal assembly to get an idea of how much shorter I will make the wheelbase.

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888

I know that muriatic acid is commonly mentioned as a means of rust removal, but manufacturers hate the stuff and few use it. The fumes are very reactive, one shop told me they weakened the roof structure of the building. Also, some say the chlorine attaches to the parent metal, remains active and is almost impossible to remove. Manufacturers use sulfuric acid as it has none of those characteristics. But only if the job cannot be done with phosphoric acid.

Bill

Muriatic (31% hydrochloric) acid fumes are pretty invasive. .. Despite always closing the bottles between uses the fumes still corroded the insulation off of the wires on a route vehicle (enclosed van) a fellow IPSSA member had.
Made for a spectacular failure mode, christmas lights and sparklers in July.

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

I'm familiar with the fumes and the corrosive nature. I used to keep a bottle in the garage and items near it rusted for no apparent reason. I keep a bottle outside behind the garage which is where I planned on using it. I used it for cleaning mortar when I do brick work. If it is hard to remove from the metal after cleaning then I'm less inclined to use it. Maybe I'll do the electrolysis again since it did work.

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888

try dousing the frame in a baking soda and water solution when you are finished with the acid. Should neutralize any remaining acid pretty effectively.

Some more info:

http://www.phadjustment.com/TArticles/H ... _Acid.html

Scroll down to steel pickling:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid

https://www.everbritecoatings.com/pool_metal.htm

There are also serious health consequences from breathing the vapor caused by insufficient dilution. Sad to say, most of us have been cleaning our driveways, treating our swimming pools, and cleaning the inside of our homes with these chemicals for decades.

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MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447

I work with a couple of component mfgrs in China. To improve a process, I recently suggested using dilute HCl acid. It is very difficult for them to get over there. They are very concerned with PPE and vapors. What we can pick up at any home improvement store, is near impossible over there. I find that to be just a bit of a dichotomy.

Unlike Phosphoric acid, Hydrochloric acid will not only attack the rust but will rapidly attack the fresh steel underneath. Keep a close watch on the process and remove the items as soon as possible.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

I Googled the health issues and I think I'll stick with the electrolysis of maybe try vinegar.



Sorry to hear it, I do too. You must be working with different ones from me. I don't go over myself but our Quality people report that in one foundry the employees wear shorts and sandals.

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888