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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 4, 2015, 2:07 pm 
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Location: 10 square miles surrounded by reality.
I Know in my YJ the mechanism was under the back seat more than yours. To my untrained eye it looks like it would be lower than the TJ seat. They had two pins in the front it slid onto. And 1 latch/lever/foot in the back. You lift the back lever, tip the seat up, slide it to one side, and off it pops.

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PostPosted: March 11, 2015, 12:22 am 
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Joined: February 8, 2007, 4:20 am
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Location: British Columbia, Canada
After staring at it for a while, I realized that it would always bug me if I left the rear seat mounted that high, and compromised the look of the car with an overly high roof. There's not much height that I can take out of the seat itself, so I decided to hack up my rear frame rails and kick them out to the side, to allow the rear seat to drop in between the frame rails. This should allow me to drop the rear seat about 4". It might not sound like much, but a few inches can make a noticeable difference in the look of a car.

This is what I have in mind:

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Here you can see that I hacked off the front of the rear frame rails:

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This will let me mount the rear seat considerable lower:

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PostPosted: March 15, 2015, 5:04 pm 
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Here is the CAD model for the updated frame that the rear seat will mount to.

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This updated frame design will allow the rear seat to sit 3.5" lower than it was in the previously shown installed height.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2015, 6:21 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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mainlandboy wrote:
Lower control arm set up in the assembly jig.

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I'm not an engineer, but that lower control arm looks a little wimpy to me. There's a lot of force concentrated on that little bit of steel and weld where the channel comes out of the C shaped assembly.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2015, 10:47 pm 
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mainlandboy wrote:
Here is one of the upper control arms, ready for welding. The ball joint is offset 3/4" from center, to create 5 degrees of castor when installed. The upper ball joint can be threaded in and out to adjust camber.

Image

Here are the front right upper and lower control arms in place, with the Miata spindle and the shock test fitted. If you look closely, there is a stack up of washers on both inside faces of the upper control arm bushings. I can shuffle these washers front to back to fine tune the castor angle.

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I'm with toobusy on this one.

The front brake torque loading the leading member of the LCA in tension will induce a large bending moment at the junction of the leading LCA member and longitudinal member. In other words, the acute angle at the front will be loaded in a manner in which that angle will "open." Triangle gusseting at these junctions would likely help.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2015, 11:17 pm 
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Thanks for the feedback. I forgot to mention that the lower control arms are not done yet, and that there is additional gusseting that I haven't added yet. If you look at the CAD model of the chassis that I have on page 1, you can see the additional gussets that I had planned. Just haven't got around to it yet.

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PostPosted: March 28, 2015, 11:11 pm 
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Here is the updated rear seat frame.

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Here is the rear seat mounted to the updated seat frame.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2015, 4:06 am 
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Hell yeah!!! I would love to something similar if I ever finish my locost 7. A 4 seater with better weather protection. Keep up the good work!

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PostPosted: April 17, 2015, 2:02 am 
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lusiphur134 wrote:
Hell yeah!!! I would love to something similar if I ever finish my locost 7. A 4 seater with better weather protection. Keep up the good work!


Thanks for the encouragement!

Finally got the rear portion of the frame kicked out to the sides to accommodate the lowered rear seat. Still need to add a few gussets, but it's coming along.

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PostPosted: May 12, 2015, 3:24 am 
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I've been working on the car steadily about 2 to 3 times a week, but there is not a lot of picture worthy progress. I cleaned up the rear springs, painted them and mounted them to some new Bilstein shocks:

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I also started figuring out what minimum firewall width I need to fit the pedals, brake booster and clutch master cylinder:

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After dry fitting the front and rear seats, I realized that I need to move the rear subframe assembly backwards in order for the rear passengers to have any leg room. I unbolted the PPF from the differential and rolled the rear subframe assembly back about a foot. I will make an extension bracket to bolt to the back of the PPF, to make the PPF long enough to bolt to the differential in its new position.

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PostPosted: June 9, 2015, 3:16 am 
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A bit of progress to report. I painted the engine block and took apart the alternator, painted the alternator case and then reassembled the alternator.

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PostPosted: June 23, 2015, 1:59 am 
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A bit more work on the engine detailing. I painted the intake manifold and the fuel rail.

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PostPosted: July 12, 2015, 11:57 am 
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A bit more progress to report.
Got the main frame rails welded up:

Image

Got the intake manifold bolted back on the engine:

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Very close to being a rolling chassis. Just need to make the motor mount plates and the extension bracket that attaches the PPF to the differential, which has been moved rearward.

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PostPosted: July 12, 2015, 3:23 pm 
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That '32 grill shell really pulls it all together. Lookin' good :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 12, 2015, 5:25 pm 
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Really like this build cant wait to see more.


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