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Stewart,

How long do those bits last? Can you sharpen them? I first saw them on the Orange County Choppers TV show years ago and have been tempted by them ever since...I've even held them in my hand in the store but my Scottish blood has always won out "You already own normal drill bits in all of these sizes that you can sharpen so they'll last for ever and these fancy looking all-in-one bits are expensive!!". What's the advantage over normal bits other than fewer bit changes as you step up the size of a hole? Is there a brand or model that you recommend?

Bill

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

I bought a set of expensive Milwaukee ones for about $40. Those lasted about 2/3 years before the became dull. Whilst at the Elro Steel store, I nipped next door to Harbor Freight and bought 2 sets of their cheapo ones for about $14 for both sets. I have had those for at least 6 years. They are dull and now need replacing. But as with most things I have bought from HF, I treat them as disposable. I have been lucky and have things last much longer than I expected. I would recommend buying a set from HF, see if you use them much, and if you don't, you're only out about $7 or $8.
As you may be able to tell from my build, I use them a lot. I like them a lot for lightening holes where I don't need an accurate hole, but that said, I have found them to be more accurate than my drill grinding.
Cheers,
Stewart.

I have one unibit and while I don't use it a lot, it is nice for some jobs. Makes a smooth, nicely chamfered hole.

Bill

I have an expensive ($60) lenox unibit that I have used the [PooPoo] out of. I love it. Its perfect for drilling out bungs on exhausts, expanding holes in sheet metal etc.. My only problem is that the 5/8" step on it is dull from some titanium I probably shouldn't have used it for.. so if I want to go bigger than that, I really have to work it to get it past that one lip.

It lasted through ~8 years of fairly consistent use. 10/10 would buy again. though I'll probably buy the HF set.

_________________
Tucker

So the engine and trans came out, and are being rebuilt by friends. Pulled the front and rear suspensions apart, and got them sandblasted prior to paint. Just got to drill some holes in the axle for lightness . Finish welded the brackets on the rear axle. The frame is now ready for final welding, just a couple of tubes to replace the front diagonal with a "Y". So had to put it on the scale. !45 lbs . It will probably end up in the low 150s. A little bit heavier than I had guesstimated, but close enough.
Got to tear down the rear axle and get the backing plates and housing blasted, then all the suspension can be painted. Just the 90% left now!
Cheers,
Stewart.

Congratulations on getting the easy part complete!

Things have slowed here due to complications with my chemo.
So added a bit of lightness to the front axle.
I then modified the oil pan, again! When I sectioned the pan originally, it reduced capacity. So using part of a Suzuki Samurai, I gave it more capacity.
Need to put the frame on a rotisserie, or 2 engine stands in my case, and finish weld the frame.
Cheers,
Stewart.

I'll bet you cut 15# out of that axle

Not many of us sit back and say, "Hmmm, what this car needs is a bit of Suzuki Samurai right here.." ..nice, clean solution to getting your needed capacity back.

(btw- how did you test for leaks with the new oil pan section welded on?)


--ccrunner

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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

It's not as random as it seems. The Samurai and Swift GTI share the same block. They have different pans. So I blended bits from both.
Cheers,
Stewart.

Worked on the bottom radiator mounts. The right side was the corner of a pan I made years ago, and didn't use. A few holes and that was it. Easy. The left side mount came into the front vertical tube. I had to make something that would keep the strength in the tube. Made a washer big enough to accept the rubber bush. Cut a section of heavy wall tube and welded the washer to it. Had to clean some of the weld up so I could get a socket on the through bolt. Cut the section out of the vertical and welded the washer/tube in and sanded it down.

Then made a jacking plate for the rear. Bent a length of 3/4" strap around a section of 4" tube. Then welded a semi-circleish piece of 14ga., I cut with the plasma. Welded the two together, and made a second one. Welded both of them to the frame.
Next is altering the top tube to give clearance for the electric fan.
Cheers,
Stewart.

Good and very bad today.
The good. I modified the top tube to give clearance for the electric fan.

I then finished the Gauge pod. I made the sides using a shrinker/stretcher and welded the pod to the steering support tubes. I then cut out the holes for the 3 gauges. Feeling all proud of myself, I decided to assemble it with the gauges to see how it looks. In the process of assembling, I dropped the Temp gauge. I said "Oh dash, darn it you naughty gauge", or something like that, anyway!

These were all early '60s gauges, I know they repro them, but I have had these over 25 years waiting for this car.
With the deed done, so was I. I've come in to sulk, and make sure I don't do anything else stupid for the day.
Cheers,
Stewart.

Looks great. You don't need to replace that gauge. The glass is available. Google smith's glass. You will need to know the OD..... ebay has the glass from a couple of bucks on up.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

A local glass shop should be able to make one for short change as well.

On the radiator washer, would it have been possible to cut a slit or drill some holes in the tubing to weld from the backside?

I could have plug welded through some holes or slit, just didn't think it needed it. There are 4 rubber bushings holding a lightweight radiator. I don't think the weld will be stressed that much.
Cheers,
Stewart.

After a suitable period of sulking, I realized I have a Fuel gauge I'm not using! So I used the glass and bezel from that and the Temp gauge is as good as new!
All is well in the Limey Speed Shop again!
Cheers,
Stewart.