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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 2, 2017, 10:03 am 
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PostPosted: March 8, 2017, 10:57 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Thanks for the feedback guys. Sometimes I feel like I'm just writing for myself. Good to know someone is out there reading this.

I have been doing more work. I wired in the turn signal controller (a Signal Stat 900) and gave them a try. Ha! No such luck. I had power, I had lights but everything in between seemed to not make any sense. If I shorted out the flasher unit, the lights should light up, just not flash. But no luck. So I did the only thing I could think of. That is take the entire switch assembly apart. I found a lot of old dried up grease. That all got cleaned up and re-greased and put back together. Now it should work. Still nothing. So it tried the old shorting of the flasher unit. This time I got lights to light. Sooooooo, I tore the can off from the flasher and found a bunch of rusted pieces-parts along with some very fried wires. Off to Autozone for a flasher. They have so many styles, Which one???? The original one had 3 terminals: B+, Load and indicator lamp. I chose one that looked right and took it home. I hooked it up and still nothing. I figured it had been a bad returned unit and I was screwed again. I looked up on the ol' interweb and found the manufacturer's wiring diagram for the new flasher. Everything I thought was wrong. The three terminals are now B+, load, and ground. And were all in different locations! Once I got that straightened out, I tried it again. SUCCESS!!!!

Now according to the original wiring diagram I have, it shows a different turn switch assembly than the one I have. The one I have has many more wires. The diagram shows there were originally 3 lights in the rear. One dual filament running/Brake light and 2 single filament turn signal lights. Remember this was originally registered as a motorcycle so lighting is not like a car. But I put on 2 trailer lights, each has a dual filament. One running light and a combined brake/turn signal . As such, there are 4 wires going to the rear for running light , brake light, left and right turn lamps. I figured that I would have to use one of the trailer adapter devices to combine the brake/turn filaments. Strangely enough the Signal Stat 900 does all that work itself, almost like it was made for me. It combines the turn and brake functions into one. So the wire in the harness for the brake light does not need to be used. SURPRISE!

Currently the brake lights and turn signals are working great. The only issue is that the indicator bulb in the switch assembly isn't functioning due to the new flasher. But I have a solution for that!

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


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PostPosted: March 9, 2017, 10:15 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
On to the fuel tank.

The tank was cleaned and painted on the outside. After removing all the mouse bedding stuff brought in by some long-ago resident, I used a piece of chain and rattled it around the inside to brake free some rust. I then used the remainder of my RedKote to seal the inside. I checked the fuel level sender and it seemed good. I removed the screen sock on the end of the pickup tube, cleaned the old varnish and crud off of it so fuel would pass and reassembled it. New gaskets were made. I then went on to mounting the tank under the rear deck. I bought new low pressure 5/16” fuel line, I needed almost 3 ft and autozone had exactly 35 inches left on their spool. Everything was going fine. I added about 2 gallons to the tank and turned the key. The beast runs again. But……. there is always a “but” on this project, but the fuel gauge doesn’t reqister anything. It should have registered something after putting in a gallon or 2. After checking this and verifying that. I determined that the gauge itself was defective. So I disassembled it by gently prying off the bezel and there I saw the burnt windings. This was not going to be fixed. I previously measured the resistance range of the sender and determined that it is a 240-33 ohm system. It is common in some older vehicles and many boats. After some searching I found a Bosch gauge on Amazon that looks similar to the original SW gauge for about $16 delivered (with Prime). Less than 24 hours later it showed up on my doorstep. An hour or more later (it is in a very tight corner of the dash that requires a contortionist to assemble) I turned on the ignition. Voilla! The gauge registered ~ ¼ full. I think the tank holds 6 gallons. So far- so good!

Next up (maybe) is connecting the speedometer up. Wish me luck.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 8:46 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Quote:
After removing all the mouse bedding stuff brought in by some long-ago resident
We need pictures!

Quote:
So I disassembled it by gently prying off the bezel and there I saw the burnt windings.
We need pictures!

Quote:
The beast runs again.
WE NEED VIDEO!

Quote:
(it is in a very tight corner of the dash that requires a contortionist to assemble)
WE NEED VIDEO! and a chiropractor... :mrgreen:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 1:08 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
OK JD. I know the drill. No pics or it never happened. This is a tough crowd. Maybe some of us can't read and only look at the pictures. For those of you, here is a start.

Sorry I have no pictures of the mouse house. You'll have to take my word that it was there.

As for the gauge repair,

The bezel had to be gently pried from the case. A little bit at a time and all the way around. it is thin metal and could be reformed if I could have gotten the gauge back operational. When opened, I found several things. First the windings were severly burnt. 2nd, one wire had been shorted to the case near a terminal (not in view). 3rd, the same lead had overheated and burned opened beneath the highlighted area. Simply, it was not economical to have repaired. This is not a rare Lamborghini or Pierce Arrow where originality is all important. Otherwise I would have reverse engineered the windings, sourced the resistance wire and rewound them myself. But in this case, I opted for a $16 functional replacement. The new gauge fits right in despite the red "BOSCH" name. Well have to see how long it works.

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As for the contortionist video, I didn't have a third or fourth hand to hold the camera at the time. There are access openings in the front panel for servicing wiring and adding brake fluid. For a sense of scale, the headlight is a 5-1/4" motorcycle bulb. I can just fit my forearm in the narrow opening. And when 1 arm is in there, the other arm cannot reach around the cab to hold the gauge in place. :BH: The gauge in question is tucked up in the corner, behind the horn and on the far side of the ammeter. The gauge body is a std 2" dia. Getting the mounting nuts started requires resting the nut on the tip of my finger nd hope it doesn't fall off while reaching my hand in. then try to rotate it a few degrees so that the thread barely catches. Otherwise the nut just falls out the bottom and we start over.

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_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


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PostPosted: March 10, 2017, 9:28 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Since we all like pictures. Here are some of the Signal Stat 900 during the cleanup. On a 2nd note, my idea of getting g the indicators working worked. Instead of getting a signal from the old flasher, It now has a pair of diodes added internally soldered to the wires that also went to the front lights. Then the common point feed the indicator light. Simple and elegant. These photos are from before the diode modification.


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_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


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