LocostUSA.com

A thousand buckaroos! Not bad considering I'm into it for $1200 and its one of the rare-er 4 wheeled ones.. In all honesty to get it on the road, it needs a new inlet nipple for the carb (like a $4 brass part) and probably a new battery. The old one holds a charge, but its been cranking slow lately.

_________________
Tucker

1055, $1k isn't a bad price for a fully legal Cushman 4-wheeler. I think the shipping from CT to TX would be the killer. For me, there is no challenge in your 4-wheeler. And I am all about the challenge. Just curious, does that have enough seat-room for a passenger? The 3 wheeler, nope. Just the driver. I'll probably have a bit more than $1K into mine by the time I have it fully road worthy and as safe as it ever was. That is just about the time when I tear it down for restoration. If that is what I end up doing.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Be careful, as states do not always accept titles from other states. Case in point, my 95 GO4 was an out of state transfer so it went through, but when I had trouble with the GA GO4, they sent me a letter cancelling the title on the 95 also. It was later reinstated, but the reason 3 wheelers are generally okay is because they are motorcycles with less stringent rules. I had a hell of a time even though all my paperwork was in order and the legal status was irrefutable. There is little recourse.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Actually sold it last night! haha. and yes. shipping always ruins the best things. There was actually enough space (and seatbelts...) for three people across the bench. Two adults, or an adult and two kids. this had a stamped vin plate, and all the qualifications of being a "car". I can't see why it wouldn't have been accepted in another state. Defroster, windshield wipers, turn signals, high and low beams, seat belts, four wheels, safety glass etc

_________________
Tucker

Short update: The city clerk of Beloit got back to a week ago. They have no records of it. She forwarded my request to their Chief of Police. I'm sure this is not top on his (her?) priority list so I'll give them another few days before I remind them I'm waiting for a reply.

On another front, I received the regulator. Unfortunately, it was poorly built and the rivets used for electrical connections were loose. When it worked at all, it put out a lot of volts. IT was also touchy when the frame of the regulator was torqued slightly. I checked everything to no avail. Time for another approach. I looked at getting the newer (relatively) 10SI alternators but couldn't find a low output (38 or 42Amp) version. So I decided to keep my original alternator and try a solid state regulator. 1960's batteries usually charged at around 15 volts. Higher than I'd like to run them. Modern cars run around 14 volts give or take for temperature conditions. I found one regulator spec'd for 14.2 Volts. So I ordered that. It should be here this week.

With a bit of studying of schematics, I figured out how the mechanical regulator was supposed to work. So not to be beaten and to prove I was the boss, I went back and bent a few contacts and got the mechanical relay functioning and regulating at 14Volts. Hooray! So while waiting for the solid-state version to show up, I put the cover back on the relay and screwed it down. I was about ready to call it a day, except....... That's when I found that the steel cover affected the magnetic field of the relays and the voltage set point was now set at a measly 13V. I removed the cover and it went back up to 14V. The new 14.2V SS regulator is scheduled for delivery on Monday. Once verified, I will begin the dismantling process.

In the mean time, Turkey Day is over and I now have Christmas decorations to get out of storage and put up.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

They may try to tell you it can't be registered now if it was never registered before, which is false.
It either meets the criteria or it does not.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yeah, that may occur. That journey begins next week maybe.

I received the new solid state regulator today, a few days earlier than expected. I had earlier questioned the seller about my configuration. It does not use the 4th terminal which is normally hooked up to the charging idiot light. Instead of an idiot light, I have an ammeter. He told me that I needed that wire connected and this was the wrong regulator. But I figured if the designers did a reasonable job of duplicating the D635 mechanical regulator, this should work with out without that wire. I ordered it anyway. I'm happy to say that the new regulator with only 3 wires works just as it should. And it regulates exactly at 14.2 volts, just as advertised. Now that I have the regulator and the OEM packaging, I could find more specifications on it.

I measured the "OFF" current draw at 1.3mA which is acceptable.

For anyone else interested in regulating antiquated GM 10DN Alternators, this is the info:

Transpo D9212 Voltage regulator (also known as WAIGlobal)

• 12 Volt, B-Circuit, 14.2 Vset, Neg. Grd., Solid State
• Delco 10DN, 20DN Series ER/EF Alternators
• 100% New Transpo
• Solid state circuit
• Notes - Terminal ID: Field F, Stator 2, B+ 3, Light 4, B- Case. For electro-mechanical relay version use D9212M.
For heavy duty version use D9212S.
• Replaces - Caterpillar 9L7309, 9L7648, Cummins 156960, 191818, Delco 1119506, 1119512, 1119515, 1119519, D630,
D635, D663, IHC, Navistar 967867R91, Prestolite 8-273

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Not much happening on the Truckster, what with the holidays all around us. Thanksgiving has passed but Christmas is right around the corner. Gift shopping, wish lists to generate, planning for the big day etc. I did manage to get the master cylinder removed and sandblasted. The bore honed out real nice. Not bad for old hone that hasn't been used for about 20 years. I did find the piston was broken, or I broke it freeing things up. Either way, simple rubber replacements are not in the plan now. I could have purchased a replacement master for around $60-100 delivered. But what is the fun in that? Some googling found that the master was the same look, bore and mounting centers as used in Hyster forklift trucks. That is available for about $37. Once I knew that, I tried looking for rebuild kits for the Hyster. I didn't find any rebuild kits. Yeah, don't say it. Who, other than me, would take the time to rebuild the master when the new ones were so cheap? I went looking further and I think I found at least one car make and model this master cylinder was used on- A 1957 Hudson Hornet. The rebuild kit with new pistons and new rubber bellows was in stock at ~$13 from RockAuto.com. So I went that way. I should find out if I made the right guess in a few days.

My research also found that the wheel cyls (3x) use the same rebuild kits as early '70s Ford F100's. But they didn't say whether the front or rears. 15/16" vs 1-1/8". They were cheap enough that I ordered 3 sets of both sizes.

That's all for now.

Chuck (I'd rather re-build than replace) Schaefer

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I guess it is one of those good news / bad news days

Good News - RockAuto got the M/C repair kit to my door this morning. Yay!

Bad News - It (Raybestos MK138) has a piston that is too long to clear the ports in the master. DARN!

Good news - All the other parts look like they should work alright COOL

Bad news - All those other good parts come with all rebuild kits, so they will become surplus BUMMER

Good news - I found a different wheel cyl that looks like the right length HORRAY

Bad news - Nobody ever gives the piston length dimensions. GRUMBLE grumble

Good news - I copied the piston photo into AutoCAD and scaled it based on the OD of 1", then I measured the length. Exactly the length I need! YAY again!

Good news - RockAuto has the best price (again) on the new Raybestos MK136 kit. I ordered the new one. SUCCESS

Good news - I'm still under the price of a new Hyster master cylinder. Not by much though. Just a few hours more educated.

IF this works, then others may find this log and save the expense when rebuilding their Cushman Trucksters.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Maybe you could use the entire f100 wheel cylinder or mill the pistons. Some more pics of your progress would be nice.

I prefer to rebuild too.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8, I could have made a new piston if I had access to a lathe. Which I would have been the preferred method. Or asked one of the guys here to make one for me. But shipping probably would have been close to what I paid for the replacement rebuild kit. The rebuild kit was 12.26 with shipping. Not worth bothering someone for a favor.

Pictures? We have pictures. At least a few. 1st is the comparison of the original (left) and the wrong Raybestos MK138 piston. That washer-looking thing in the lower right was broken off the original piston. The original cup is not shown.



Then there is the snap shot of the MK137 stolen from the internet scaled in AutoCAD to get the overall length. I used this to compare to the original. I am confident this will work this time.



This is the full rebuild kit I ordered today.

I removed the rear shocks today and got them cleaned up from 41 years of grime and rust. They were made by Gabriel and marked 807335 and 610488. Google doesn't show anything.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I am currently having a devil of a time removing the rear brake drums. I believe they are mounted similar to a small engine flywheel. Cast iron hub with a keyway and big castle nut. It may even be a tapered shaft, not sure. There were several methods over the years. It appears the drum itself holds the wheel studs and it is behind the hub. The studs pass thru the hub. Odd! I have not found any good photos of this on the various websites I googled. I made a puller of sorts that mounts to the wheel studs and presses on the axle shaft. I have tried 2x now and not been successful. Even tried some propane heat, still nothing. I am soaking with some good penetrating oil right now.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Success on a small level. I received the master Raybestos MK137repair kit. It is perfectly right.

Left side are the new parts, right are the old parts including the broken piston. There was no seal for the filler cap so I added an o-ring from the hardware store. Venting is in the cap so that won't be a problem.

Celebrate the small victories in life

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yeah, the hub and drum are one piece and you can't use the edge of the drum to pull it. I'd look into borrowing a fwd hub puller/axle puller from a local parts store. If buying, I'd get one where the center is just a lipped disc and the legs hook on to it individually and separately, so any bolt circle will work, but that type is much more expensive than the typical 3 holes on one side, one on the other. Maybe HBF has something similar.

Yet another option is to drill a 3/8 thick plate to bolt onto the hub, then a standard 3 jaw gear puller hooked on the plate.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

well it appears to be not the case on my Truckster. If I lightly beat on the end of the wheel studs, the brake drum moves back away from the hub, about the same distance that the stud moves in until I hit the brake backing plate. I think the studs are pressed into the drum, not the hub. Either way they are clearly separate parts and the drum mounts from the back side of the hub flange. Crazy! I won't know for sure until I get things apart. I haven't seen this on any of the websites. And believe me, I have searched.


BTW, I have not yet found a good web group for these things. They are not Golfsters (Cushman golf cars) or Turfsters, although some parts may be similar. Buggies Gone Wild, Microcar.com, Sillylittlecars.com, 3wheelerworld.com all have a very minimal amount of info on the mid-70's 3-wheeled trucksters. Do you have any idea for a better source of internet Cushman-Truckster [NWS PORN]?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766