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PostPosted: April 22, 2019, 7:42 pm 
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Does anybody know how much a tire deflects under hard load at the top, by the spring perch? I know they can roll quite a lot at the contact patch, but I'm wondering how much they roll, if at all, up at the top? With no spacer, the tires just barely kiss the spring perches. I'm currently running 12mm spacers. I'm thinking if I go down to like a 5mm or even a 3mm spacer, I might gain enough clearance to be workable.

Also a buddy of mine was the brains behind the "Honest Assembly" F80 powered E30 M3 that was at Sema this year, and he has a couple different control arm mounts left over that will slightly adjust the wheel position forwards and backwards, and he is willing to let me use them for testing. Might be picking up a couple of those parts on Thursday.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2019, 7:40 pm 
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First Drive! My buddy Josh came along for fun, and to hold the laptop.

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Was very exciting! But there's a lesson in here that I want to share that I am not particularly proud of learning. As hard as it is, never forget your pre-drive check after doing any work. Had two major problems on this drive. The first, fortunately didn't end in any damage, but I was on the highway, noticed a mild vibration starting, and realized I had forgotten to torque my wheels. Most lug nuts were still tight, but two of them had worked themselves loose. We were only a couple miles from home, so I had my wonderful girlfriend raid my garage for a torque wrench and sockets, and bring it to us on the side of the road. After that, it was pretty smooth sailing for a while. Got some autotuning done through Tuner Studio, and got a good shakedown run of the suspension. It feels great, but its definitely understeer-y, which I expected. The sway bars are on their most conservative setting, so I can dial that in pretty easily.

The problem is on the drivetrain side. The car is doing the same problem as it had before, where the engine stalls when coming to a stop, the ICV won't keep the engine going. I think there's something I can do with enrichment or something to keep it running, but I'm not sure what, and I know the light flywheel and cam make it kind of hard to idle. The other problem was how the drive ended:

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I had to stop suddenly in traffic on a two-lane highway, and the car stalled, as it often does. But then it didn't start again. It cranked fine, and it would cough, but it just wouldn't catch, so we had to push the car into the grass, because of course there was no shoulder on the highway. Spent some time trying to figure out what was going on, but couldn't come to a definitive conclusion. Had to give in and call a tow truck. I'm lucky that my dad is a premium AAA member, so the tow actually didn't cost me anything, and the truck driver actually managed to drop the car straight into my garage, so no pushing to get it back! I know the car has some old gas in it, so I'm going to clean that out, put in a new filter, and run some BG 44k through it to clean it out. Was getting ready to do that buuuuuuut the fuel pump is dead. That explains why it died on the highway! I guess now is a good enough time to upgrade the fuel pump. Going to buy one that will be adequate for future power goals, so I'm leaning towards a Walbro 450, or an equivalent in that range.

Has anyone had any particularly good or bad experiences with Walbro, Deatschwerks, or any other brand aftermarket fuel pumps? Want to get one ordered before Monday, so I still might have a slight chance of making it to the Autocross next Sunday.

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PostPosted: April 28, 2019, 4:24 pm 
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I was looking for drop-in replacement for a 3000GT VR4 and came across this little gem.
Denso 195130-1270, the "Supra pump". 390Lph and pretty cheap from Kyosan. Gets good reviews.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/220657495341

Not affiliated, haven't ordered one yet.

The Ford inline pumps are another favorite on the hotrod scene, cheap used and you can double them up for more flow.


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PostPosted: May 1, 2019, 4:09 pm 
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Whoops, didn't see your reply before I ordered a Walbro 450 pump. Had trouble finding one in stock but it's on the way. Had a guy on Facebook reach out to me about selling some Siemens Deka 80# injectors. Was going to order it but he hasn't answered since I asked for pictures of them, so I could confirm they weren't knock-offs. Will order some soon regardless, but hopefully he comes through.

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PostPosted: May 2, 2019, 11:46 am 
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Did the ICV work in "Output test mode"?

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PostPosted: May 3, 2019, 9:42 am 
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JPS Europa:

I haven't had a chance to work on it since I found out the fuel pump was bad.

On the agenda for today is test the ICV, diagnose why the windows don't work, and start on a mounting bracket for the ECU.

Fuel pump will be here on Monday. This weekend is my birthday, and the first autocross of the season, and I would be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed that Sparky isn't running. But I'm spending it with friends and family, and I'm much more grateful for that. More updates next week!

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PostPosted: May 16, 2019, 9:21 pm 
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It lives again! Just took a new fuel pump to do it. The Walbro 450 and installation kit arrived no problem, but installation was a bit of a challenge. As I learned, something like a 255 is the same diameter as a factory pump, and is almost a straight bolt in. When you step up to a 450, the pump flares out at the bottom end, ends up being noticeably larger. I knew this, and simply cut the pump assembly to clear the bottom of the pump, put in fresh fuel hose, and ran the new wires up through the top of the pump assembly. To run the wires through the top, I had to knock out the factory plug, but I'll get back to that. Here is the assembly with Walbro 450 installed:

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I wish I had taken a comparison picture to show the size difference between the two pumps. C'est la vie. I had warning that this bigger pump could be challenging to fit through the hole in the tank, and it definitely was. The bottom flange of the pump is effectively a slip fit through the hole in the tank, and the hose clamps that hold it are definitely an interference fit. I flip-flopped about grinding down the edges of the hose clamps, but, through trial and error I moved the clamps around, and bent them slightly. The assembly now fits (with a little smack from my hand) into the fuel tank!

Coming back to the wiring problem, the factory connector was too small for the larger wires required to run this pump, so I just used a punch to knock it out, and ran the wires straight through. My plan was to seal the wires in place with some sort of gasoline-proof sealant. I learned before I bought anything that silicone and gasoline don't mix, so I picked up some #2 gasket sealer for carburetors and things because it had a very high pressure resistance, and was gasoline resistant. Several days after application, it was still tacky. Went back to the parts store and then I learned that that stuff doesn't ever actually solidify, its meant to be between two gasket surfaces. So I cleaned it up and used JB-Weld.

The time that the fuel pump was broken didn't go to waste. I knocked out a bunch of little projects, most of which I didn't take pictures of. Rattle-canned the bare metal on the hood, tooled around with the suspension a bit, drained the fuel tank of old gas, replaced the fuel filter, and built a bracket to mount the ECU inside the glove box. It was the first time I have used the welder in a long time, so its a bit rough, but here it is in its raw state:

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I was going to just make some flat rails to mount it, but the bolt holes from the Megasquirt and the factory ECU just barely overlapped, so I had to raise it up a bit. Here it is with the ECU bolted on:

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And mounted under the dash:

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There is WAY too much extra wiring in the harness still, so it looks like a rats nest in the glove box, but until everything is working properly, I don't want to go shortening any wires. But everything fits with the glove box closed, so I'm happy for now. I attempted to wire up the tachometer, but so far I haven't gotten it to function. Need to do some research to see if I'm missing an extra ground, or just totally have it hooked to the wrong wire, but I don't technically need it to drive. Also want to look into getting the cam sensor looking here pretty soon. I put the interior all back together, which feels really good! It's a mess, but its great to see it put together. Have some rain coming tomorrow, so I'm going to take some time to clean it:

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More to come soon, I have until June 21st to get the car to pass emissions. Next Friday I'm taking it to the exhaust shop to get a (removable) catalytic converter put in, and then Sunday June 2 I have an appointment at the local dyno to get the car tuned! I also picked up some Deka 80lb injectors that I got a good deal on, and the tuner at the dyno recommended that I install them now and just trim them way down. That way when I add boost later, I don't need to retune nearly as much. I might have said that before. I think I'm losing my mind. Anyway, I drove the car yesterday and today. With the lack of tuning, and the new fuel pump and filter, the car is running insanely rich. Like 10:1 and probably even richer, but I think that's where my wideband maxes out. But I'd much rather super rich than super lean.

Hopefully more updates this weekend.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 9:25 am 
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You're running the Megasquirt now, right? Did you adjust your reqfuel? If your fuel pressure regulator is maintaining the same pressure as before and your Reqfuel calc has the new injector size in it, the tune should be close to where it used to be.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 11:20 am 
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Laminar:

First off, I should clarify I haven't put the 80# injectors in yest, I'm going to before the dyno. Right now I'm still running Bosch 19# injectors from a mustang.

I am running MegaSquirt, is adjusting reqfuel different than just telling TunerStudio what size injectors are in it? I haven't dug too deeply into the fuel settings yet.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 2:58 pm 
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Yep, we're talking about the same thing. You tell Tunerstudio what size your injectors are, engine displacement, etc. It calculates the variable "reqfuel" that is a theoretical pulsewidth of your engine at 100% VE, 100% kPa MAP, 70 degF, and 14.7AFR. The final pulsewidth sent to your injectors is basically Reqfuel * VE table * MAP + modifiers (after-start, warm-up, accel enrichment, etc.)

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 8:17 pm 
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I'm going to spitball a little bit here:

I put a fair amount of time into my current tune, with how the car was set up before the fuel pump died. Now, with a new filter, and a new pump, the car is running super rich. The Live Tuning software seems to really be having trouble dealing with the changes. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to (save the current tune, obviously) start a totally fresh tune, and just get a fresh starting point?

The other theory I have about the crazy richness is that my return line to the fuel tank is partially clogged, or not big enough to handle the extra flow. I'm wondering if the car is running much higher fuel pressure than stock. Might be worth throwing a fuel pressure gauge on there this weekend to check.

Thoughts?

Took a little time today, cleaned and reinstalled the wheel studs, because I noticed one or two were getting loose. Also put a little more tension into the rear sway bar, just as a test.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 8:40 pm 
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Running open-loop or closed?

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PostPosted: May 17, 2019, 8:46 pm 
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Fuel pressure regulator is probably choking.

Maybe get a PWM "Pump Saver" with a pressure sensor?

You could possibly use a spare output on the MS to adjust the pump output with a resistor and relay based on fuel pressure/RPM, like Mitsubishi did.


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PostPosted: May 18, 2019, 5:35 pm 
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KB58:
To be frank, I'm not sure. I know Idle is closed-loop, don't know if there is something else. I can look tomorrow when I can hook up the computer again.

300D50:
Might be worth looking into, are all pumps designed to have their output varied? I would be worried about overworking the pump or something.

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PostPosted: May 19, 2019, 10:29 pm 
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Didn't get a chance to hook up the laptop today, but I did rent a fuel pressure tester. I'm getting 90psi to the rail, which is about double factory spec. I think that explains my crazy rich AFRs :ack: . I posted online on a boosted E30 group, and they came through with some great leads! Apparently, the factory return lines are more than enough to handle the extra flow of the big pump, but there is a pinch point where the return line enters the tank. It is not uncommon as these cars get old to build up debris there. Two fixes: I can pull off the return line and run a sharp welding wire or coathanger in to clean it up, or I can T-off the rubber return line and add a second one to a different part of the tank. I think I'm going to go ahead and do both, just for future proofing. Couldn't source the fittings I need locally so I'm going to order them from Summit.

Information was mixed on whether or not the factory regulator is adequate for now. Some people think that the factory one should be fine, as long as I stay naturally aspirated, others were adamant that an adjustable unit is required. I'm going to wait to buy an aftermarket one until I confirm that my other fixes don't cut it.

While I was testing things out, I decided to swap the FPR with another one that I had on that spare engine, and I realized they actually had slightly different part numbers. The one that was on my car is listed as a 2.5 Bar FPR, and the one on the spare engine is a 3.0 Bar FPR. Haven't dug too deeply, but I haven't found a specific list of which cars came with which. I figure that more pressure is better to a point, so I am going to run the 3.0 Bar FPR unless I hear or read otherwise.

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