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PostPosted: January 21, 2018, 9:42 pm 
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Location: central Arkansas
esp42089 wrote:
So here is my take on a knock controller: they really should only be a failsafe if employed and not used as a control for normal operation.


The old Carter EKE (Engine Knock Eliminator) was exactly that. It was designed to save your engine if you leaned out or got a bad batch of fuel. If the knock sensor started getting excited it yanked some spark out - there was a little trimpot that let you set how much.

I had one that finally died. A couple of different EE friends looked at it, but they said it had some obsolete components that couldn't be replaced, so I finally threw it away. But if you could find one on eBay or someplace, you'd be good to go.


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PostPosted: January 21, 2018, 9:44 pm 
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Location: central Arkansas
ThunderHeide wrote:
ordered all new bolts for the subframe mounts


Use antiseize when you put them in!

If you treat it like it's radioactive you can delay the point where you get silver snot all over your hands and tools...


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PostPosted: January 26, 2018, 11:03 pm 
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Joined: March 14, 2012, 1:03 am
Posts: 161
Location: Boulder, CO
Been an exciting week! My MegaSquirt arrived on Wednesday! Had everything I ordered, but I didn't realize WHEN I ordered the MS3X that a MAP sensor was built into it from the factory. So I'm returning the extra MAP sensor and harness I got. I also apparently had forgotten to order my IAT sensor, so I did that the other night. BUT. This is what the box looked like when it arrived.

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There are no scratches on the MS itself, and everything looks good. DIYAutoTune also told me they have never had an ECU not survive shipping, even with USPS. I'm still worried about it, but I think it will end up being ok.

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I worked a half day today, then went out to the Pull and Pay yard, and got myself a (actually two) Throttle Position Sensors from E36s. They are a potentiometer type sensor, rather than the three position switch on the E30. Will need to make an adapter to use it, but it is pretty straight forward to make. This afternoon I FINALLY got rear subframe out. I needed to remove the rear segment of the driveshaft. And the reason the subframe bushings were stuck was the pilots that slip into the body had become seized. With some careful finesse with my trusty sledgehammer, and a selection of pry bars and old bolts, I freed it. It felt so good to finally break that thing loose!

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I have a banquet tomorrow night for the BMW club, but I'm going to hit it hard in the morning, get the garage cleaned, and get ready to start welding on the replacement subframe.

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"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 12:12 am 
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Joined: April 19, 2012, 9:43 pm
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Location: Colorado
Wow, that's bad! Mine arrived wrapped in bubbled wrap and careful packed in the box. Did you contact DIYautotune about it?


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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 2:24 am 
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Location: Boulder, CO
There was protective packaging in the box, though it was just paper, I don't recall bubble wrap. I contacted them and they said it should still work. Though, of course, I have no way of actually testing it.

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"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
In progress 4G63 Haynes Roadster


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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 11:55 am 
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Joined: January 1, 2015, 1:55 pm
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I have a small business of making and selling children's coin banks. I ship a lot of packages. Because of the rough handling that I was seeing I had special packaging developed to protect my banks. The way that packages are sometimes handled is appalling. I hope that there wasn't damage to your unit.


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PostPosted: January 28, 2018, 10:18 pm 
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Location: Colorado
I kid you not, UPS one day delivered us a package at work with tread marks over it. It had been run over by a truck and they were trying to get us to sign for it. We only use FedEx now and have yet to have them pull any shenanigans. No UPS, DHL, or USPS at my work.


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PostPosted: January 29, 2018, 12:02 am 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
I'd show you some video of rims I received through the Brown truck guys, but it won't let me upload them.

I received them 3 times with bent rims. All 3 times the packages were destroyed and the rims were hanging out the side. It was unbelievable how bent they were and the rim manufacturer (I'll remember the name about the time I send this DAZZ?) had packed them in cardboard boxes with no padding.

Even after I'd sent them back a 2nd time they still didn't change how they sent them. I sent them pictures and videos plus they tested them when they were returned.

The last time I sent them back they called me and said they decided not to send me anymore because I was doing some thing to them. He said "They are all coming back bent, what are you doing to them?" Even after pics and videos they still thought their packaging was OK and the Brown guys were OK, so it must be something I was doing to them.

Office Depot uses them, but at least they have the sense to double box them with plenty of cushioning space.

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I drive therefore I am

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but I can't understand it for you.


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PostPosted: February 4, 2018, 7:06 pm 
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Joined: March 14, 2012, 1:03 am
Posts: 161
Location: Boulder, CO
Got some welding done on the Z3 subframe. Added some reinforcements for the differential mounts, as well as the trailing arm mounts, all sourced from Garagistic, same as the front subframe. Welds aren't the prettiest, but I'm confident they will hold. One of these years I'll get some actual training, or at least watch more YouTube videos to get better welds.

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The next step is to weld on the tabs for eccentric bolts, and then slot out the original holes, so I can adjust the rear alignment. I'll post pictures of what needs to be done there, when I get closer to it. The important part of it is the tabs need to be level in relation to the subframe. To do that, I have to put a level on the end, where the bushing goes. Which means I need to remove the bushings first. Which I couldn't manage today. I tried pressing it out from the center, with no luck, tried using a piece of scrap-- er...art from machining school to press on the whole thing, and only ended up knocking a bunch of stuff over in the garage. I just went down and drilled some holes in the bushings to try and weaken it, so we will see if that makes a difference. Other than that, any tips on removing stuck bushings, short of using fire? I really don't enjoy the smell of burning rubber when it isn't a set of tires.

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--Eric

"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
In progress 4G63 Haynes Roadster


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PostPosted: February 4, 2018, 8:38 pm 
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Location: Colorado
If you've got a half decent compressor, I can bring over my air chisel. If you don't I could load up my portable compressor and bring it too


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PostPosted: February 6, 2018, 3:04 am 
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Joined: July 16, 2008, 4:29 pm
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Location: Finland
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showth ... p?t=254629
Threaded bar and some steel bushings and you're done. Key is to apply constant pressure on the rubber bushings while removing or installing them. No need to fire anything. That will just create a mess.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2018, 12:10 am 
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Location: Boulder, CO
Got it! Evan came by, brought an air chisel, and a capable extra set of hands. Used the Map gas torch, air chisel, and both of us on the hydraulic press, but we got it! We had to work together to hold the press upright, and keep the subframe level. But they are out. Next step is welding on the alignment adjusters.

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In other news, there is a group buy for Apex Arc-8 wheels, which are the ideal wheels that I want for the car. They are $150 off the set, with free shipping. Drops the total price under $1000 for the set. High end of what I wanted to spend, but I think they will be worth it. They are 17x9, ET30 offset, in a Matte Bronze finish.

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They will definitely let me fit the wide tires I want, and by my calculation, should just clear the strut tower. And worst comes to worst, I'll get a set of thin spacers. Planning on getting wheel studs anyway. I should have the wheels by the end of February!

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--Eric

"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
In progress 4G63 Haynes Roadster


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PostPosted: February 13, 2018, 12:38 pm 
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Those are gorgeous wheels and exactly what I wanted for my E36, but the timing wasn't right when I was ready to buy.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2018, 10:58 pm 
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Location: Boulder, CO
Thanks! The group buy dropped them right into the top of my price range. Also took advantage of discounts on wheel stud kits, in case I need to run spacers. It turns out Apex doesn't make Matte Bronze wheels in my size, so I picked Hyper Black as my top choice, with Anthracite as a backup.

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--Eric

"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
In progress 4G63 Haynes Roadster


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PostPosted: February 19, 2018, 11:43 pm 
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Posts: 161
Location: Boulder, CO
No pictures today, but I've still made some progress. I welded in some CNC machined alignment adjustment tabs, from Garagistic. Did one side of the car, and then bought a carbide burr for my dremel, and carved out the slots. Still have to do the other side, then I have a couple pieces of steel to weld onto the trailing arms, then a coat of chassis paint, and I can reassemble the subframe. I'm seriously considering rebuilding the differential though, while it is out. I know it hasn't been serviced since we bought it about 17 years ago, and I don't think even before then. So it could probably use new clutches in the LSD, and at least some new fluid. It still locks at least some right now, but I would like more. Taking the diff out of the car isn't too hard, so I might just leave it for later, but it would be nice to have a fresh one.

Here is the list of what needs to be done before race use, and for street use:

Race prep:
-Reassemble subframe
-Rear sway bar mounts
-Reinstall rear suspension
-Wheels and tires
-Bleed brakes
-Fender flares
-Differential (maybe)
-Wire in MS3
-Wire in Wideband O2
-Plumb MAP sensor
-New intake tube, with IAT sensor
-Air filter

Street prep:
-Skid plate

Other projects:
-Louvred hood
-New seats
-Harness bar/Roll bar
-Paint/vinyl wrap
-Supercharger
-Tablet in dash

Lots to do in a relatively short time! Only a couple months left before racing starts, I don't know if I'm going to be ready. But that's okay, don't want to rush it. If I don't make the first event, so be it. My goal is to race it this year, and that is definitely doable.

_________________
--Eric

"Stuckness shouldn't be avoided. It's the psychic predecessor of all real understanding." --Robert Pirsig

Grey 2004 BMW 330ci (DD)
Red 1989 BMW 325is
In progress 4G63 Haynes Roadster


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