LocostUSA.com

hey, aren't you also a member of that Reverse Trike website? I believe I've seem your username on the forums there.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Thanks, mtntech.
You must be churning up the powder by now.
Robb,
thanks for the reminder. I should visit and post over there, too.

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Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Yup. Pretty quiet forum. Not much happening there.

Yeah, I have an account, but there's really not much activity. I haven't posted there. Maybe when I start the Martian Buzz Bomb, tho that's a couple years away, maybe.

_________________
The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Almost. Lots of snow down here. Is avgas still available at the airport there?

Sorry, mtntech. Missed your post.
I believe so, but I haven't been out there in a while. I sold the airplane in the fall of 2014, and it left this past May. I was out there with the purchaser, rigging and testing it, but we used pump gas premium (those plugs aren't too happy with 100LL). Then it left for good.
Now for a quick update. My little chop shop operation has been in full swing; lots of parts listed and packed for shipping, but no success yet. No surprise, as I didn't think that this would be a good time of the year to sell bike parts. Hopefully, as we get closer to spring this will change. There have been no bad surprises; the bike seems to have been reasonably well maintained. There is some corrosion and wear, but in line with a 17 year old bike with 40,000 miles. Go figure why someone wouldn't bother to get it back from the impound lot.
The engine is finally out. What a brute. It makes the R1 look tiny. Although they are the same displacement and weigh the same. But two big thumpers sure look beefy.
For estetics, the engine will need to be tilted backwards about 12*; that will put both cylinders at the same angle, as seen from the front.
ccrunner, you had a thread about tilting your engine back the same way. But I couldn't tell from your build log, if you ended up doing that. What are your thoughts?
For this build I'm thinking of adding an Accusump (so far, I don't think that I'm needing it for the R1, but I still need to do some more testing) and it will also get a much larger oil cooler than the stock unit.
Just for fun, a pic of the shades of things to come.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Well on your way it seems FWIW, I had good luck parting my bike out on the model/make/year specific forums.. Took some time, and by the end of the parts pile, the last guy got a killer deal and bought all remaining bits for a great price (I had made my investment back by then and was sick of shipping by that point )

I had to tilt my motor 'back' (as you plan to), and I suffer no ill effects (Of note, I also had to tilt mine 'over' to the left to help with driveline alignment; my motor now thinks it's perpetually tilted over on the bike's kickstand, while simultaneously lifting the bike's front tire a few inches off the ground..

To help me sleep at night because I was worried about having done this, I rationalized it like this- your engine was built to experience a bit of tilt back in normal use (let's call it what it is, a wheelie ).. In my case of the added tilt over to the left, the bike should idle forever on it's kickstand..

I'd have to check, but I think I tilted 6 degrees level to back, and 6 degrees center to left..

I also made a baffle plate/windage tray to keep the oil in the pan during hard/extended Gs.. So far no issues at all- always good pressure.. Finally, I now overfill the crankcase up to the top of the window (as opposed to middle) as the tilt of the motor has put the window below level as it was designed..

Finally finally, your Accusump and bigger oil cooler plans should put the tilt concerns to rest with the added capacity/reserve.. Maybe someone with more bike experience can chime in, but I even wonder if you'll 'need' the Accusump?

Keep the pics and progress coming


--ccrunner

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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

Thanks, ccrunner.
That is what I thought. The permanent wheelie proves to be ok in your installation, and I will probably push the 3 wheeler a lot less hard than you, nearly beating Corvettes.
As to the Accusump, I'm still on the fence. Here is an interesting little tidbit. The R1 does not have an oil pressure warning, but an oil level sensor. It is actually a small float in the oil pan, similar to a float switch on a sump pump. I had a couple of occasions when the oil warning light came on (a fast sweeper, although on a country road), but a quick cross check to my oil pressure gauge, showed that all was fine. So the Accusump wouldn't even have opened the valve, thus negating its benefit. But as I said, I'll need to do a lot more testing. The Honda on the other hand, uses an oil pressure warning switch. Wonder what the difference in philosophy would be?
Anyway, thanks for confirming my thinking. As to the hydraulic clutch, I may have found an answer. I sourced a tall driveshaft adapter, that appears to be clearing the whole cover (after cutting the appropriate hole), thus allowing me to use the stock clutch set-up. Not sure yet, until I actually have it, but I will keep you posted.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I don’t know. A lack of symmetry by mounting with the pan level is interesting too. Fun to watch either way.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I would agree. The two sides are already different. I would leave the engine "oil pan level".

Thanks, miatav8 and mtntech.
I hadn't thought of it that way. It's good food for thought, and I really appreciate the input. Once I get it on the build table, I'll have more ideas. I'm picking up the drive shaft adapter next week, and then it will have to get up on there. Oh, and then there are also the Wilwood Dynalites for the Seven at the parcel depot. It'll be good to get up at 4 again; I feel rusty, sleeping in till 5.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

I managed to solve the first of surely many puzzles. The VTR engine has a hydraulic clutch, and the slave cylinder looked to be right in the way of the Hawk drive shaft adapter. But with some sleuthing, I found one that they make for a FJR 1300 ( for the Legends cars) that is very tall, and looked to clear the slave cylinder. It does mostly, however, the intake port will need to be moved from the side to the top. There is plenty of room to do this, and the side can be just plugged. Another benefit of retaining the stock hydraulic clutch should be, that a better pedal feel can be accomplished. The slave cylinder diameter is 1.4 in, while the master is probably only 0.25 in, so a standard master cylinder may just provide the right pedal feel.
The plan is now to use a conventional u-joint to a drive shaft tube and then have a collar machined that will neck the tube down to a motorcycle sized driveshaft and u-joint. That will be dictated by the rear end. I'm thinking that the driveshaft tube will be angled down to about the firewall from where the smaller diameter motorcycle driveshaft will run straight to the back. Hopefully this will be low enough to run under the passenger seat. More puzzles.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Martin, don't forget that you're going to have to support the input end of the motorcycle driveshaft inside the swingarm. In the B-3, I did that by having a section of driveshaft supported in two bearings beneath the drivers seat. there's a free, unsupported, section from the XS850 engine to the supported length under the seat - I call those the intermediate and rear drive shafts respectively.

of course if I'm reminding you of something you've already considered, pardon my pedantry. pedantistry? pedantism? pedantery? I'm coining a word here, I think, take your pick.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Thanks, Robb.
Yes, I have been mulling that over, but until I have the actual parts, I can't quite visualize it completely yet. I'm planning to go with a complete rear end (swing arm etc.) from a GL 1800; thanks to the proliferation of trike conversions, they are plentiful, and more reasonable than those from the GL 1500 (and sometimes brand new)
Another thing I learned at work the other day, are the installation of adapter sleeve bearings. They are in essence a bearing with its own little section of shaft (the adapter sleeve) that provides the precision for the bearing to ride on, yet it can be slid along the shaft into any position, where it is locked into place with a threaded collar. They are also self aligning, so they appear to have good potential. The only downside are the heavier pillow blocks, as they are for industrial use, and are cast iron. But after working with them, I was impressed.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Martin, coming to Pembie tomorrow. Will be there till Monday.