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ESP

In viewing the location as to the near by exhaust pipe and a plastic container for the fluid, I hope that you are considering some type of shielding between them.

Yep! I'm thinking an aluminum shield. My nearest steel supplier carries sheets of 16g aluminum, which I've been thinking would make great heat shields.

It works!



It still needs some bushings on the 1/2-13 bolt, but I hooked it up to the transmission and it feels like the corvette pedal did. Very heavy, and only the bottom inch of travel does anything. I don't know what to do about that, apart from perhaps replacing the clutch.

A stainless heat shield is about 17x better as an insulator as aluminum.

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Built up the brake pedal assembly:


I need to make some plastic bushings for the 1/2" bolt to keep the pedal straight and smooth.


I'm planning to weld the pedal assembly in.

The floor hatch will have to bulge up a little for access, but not too much!

You can still have confidence with a slight bulge.

These "little" jobs are always the hardest for me to take my time with. It's not that they aren't critical to success or any less important, it's that they don't seem to have the same impact as mounting whole suspension modules or getting an engine in.

Didn't there use to be TV commercials with a guy named "Bob" that sold that stuff???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghrWz7cVXv8

Bob thinks he might be able to hide the bulge by lowering the whole master cylinder and getting everything under the floor. Should only need a 1/4", which would only take a little trimming to the flanges on the frame rail.

I decided that the brackets should bolt to the frame so that I can remove them or alter their location later without cutting welds. The pedals don't travel quite parallel to each other, but from what I can tell, it won't be an issue. They are close enough that it doesn't seem obvious. I'll see how it is with the seat in place. I can't really move the clutch, the space is too tight, but the brake pedal could be moved a bit.


Once the paint dries, the clutch will go in and I can plumb everything up. You can see the clutch line poking out under the rail, covered with blue tape. The clutch pedal arm will have to be cut down a little to fit correctly, but otherwise everything is pretty good.



I completely agree. I make myself go out in the garage at least three times during the week, even if it is just to stare at it for a half hour and think about what I want to do. The little tasks just don't have wow factor that the big ones did. I feel like I can taste the finish it is so close, but there are a million "little" jobs to go and I shouldn't rush them.

Next up: complete plumbing the brakes and bleed them out. Then I can finish up the e-brake linkage. Then I need to finish the fuel lines. Then I need to pull the engine out. And then I can rebuild all the sheetmetal I cut out. And then I can put the engine back in, and wire it all up. And then I can mount the seats and put the steering wheel in...I've got a ways to go . Just keep chugging, every task complete is that much closer. I'm hoping to have it drive-able in some capacity by no later than early spring. Even if it doesn't have functional gauges and lights. I'm secretly hoping that by the beginning of April, it will be fully functional (lights and gauges) so that I can drive it to work when I want (I'm kind of hoping to near daily drive it to work). That will be the 1 year mark since tear-down. After that I can work on the pretty things at whatever pace pleases me.

I don't have the room to straighten out the clutch pedal behind the kick-board. The fender comes in right there. I need to cut the pedal arm to size and get it in there, put in the seat on some 2x4s and give it a try. Despite the radical appearing angle, the pedal still feels like it swings pretty straight. If it's obnoxious, I'll have to go back to the drawing board on how to do the clutch.

The pedal swing doesn't seem too bad, though the clutch travel is really short. The master bottoms out with the pedal a couple inches off the floor. I think I should probably make a clutch stop.

Alright, I could use some input if you have some. I'm running the brake lines. Should I have proportioning valves instead of Tees at the front and back where it breaks off to the left and right sides? I don't think so, but I don't know and figured I should ask.

Here they are running fore and aft. They aren't clamped to the rails yet.

Back driver-side. You can see the Tee here as well as my fancy new Russell stainless steel brake hoses. They were exact copies of the OEM, but have wonderful braided stainless with a clear vinyl outer coating. No grit getting into exposed braid and slowly destroying these lines!

Here is the back passenger side.

Here is where the front Tee needs to go: right behind the front crossmember.

I'm planning to stop by the parts store tomorrow to pick up the Tee and some 3/8" fuel line unions, provided no one has a case for proportioning valves instead.

No proportioning valves at the left/right splits, or anywhere in the C4 Corvette brake plumbing. The proportioning is done by a spring in the master cylinder. It should be about right for your car, and it's calibrated a little on the safe side from the factory.

-Graveyard

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Aedifico ergo sum.

Evan

I hope that is not your final placement of the brake line in the picture. These lines are far to close to the exhaust system for my liking. I have tried to keep brake and fuel lines as far away from the exhaust as possible to prevent boiling the fluid within them. Usually on the opposite side of the frame rail.

My .02 cents.

I'm planning to add some shielding. This is the stock location for the lines, so I think it'll be fine, but we'll see how it goes.

I did run the line on top of the rail, instead of inside. There is at least 4 inches to the exhaust everywhere.

At this point, I need to finish up running the fuel lines to the back, then I can start rebuilding the floor! Probably bleed out the brakes this weekend so they are usable.