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So I started off with a few small scraps tying the trunk floor into the frame rails. This isn't the only bracing I will do, but it was something quick to pass a little time last night.


Today I embraced the CAD and became a true disciple. After some additional clearancing on the body with a sawsall and a cutoff wheel, I went about designing my new frame rails.







I set the half sheet of 11g that will make the new rails on my table saw. This made one great workbench! Below you can see the new cardboard rail with both sides taped in place.

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying with where to mount the giant strip arc. From the trans crossmember to where? 6ft seems like it would make a pretty big arc.

Crude drawing but just an idea. An X is much more effective than cross members. They are commonly added to street rods.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

IIRC, the '53 Vette had what was basically a shortened '53 Chevy frame with an "X" member added for increased stiffness. Sort of what MV8 has drawn here.

_________________
Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

Ahhhh! Ok. I'm following now. Yes I agree that an X-frame is a good way to go.

I got one rail cut out yesterday.

I now need to bend it to shape, tack it together, and then check the fit. I think I may be able to partially weld it into place before cutting the rail. If I can, I will, because that would be a huge help.

I'm still just guessing at the final ride height. The weight on the leaf spring will be different, and I just don't know how to get a more exact estimate before welding everything up and setting it on the ground. Worst case I guess I could buy coilovers to get adjust-ability.

Evan,

I'm really enjoying watching your project progress. I admire a guy that's got a big enough set to attack the frame of their (non-junker) car with an angle grinder and then put it back together the old school way (this looks about right, let's hope it works....). Keep up the good work!!

A fan,

_________________
Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Hi, Bill; thanks for the kind words. My insecure side was worried I had offended the forum members by chopping so ruthlessly into the 53, but I then had to remind myself that there really isn't all that much to comment on so far and silence isn't condemnation.

I really have to thank my dad. Growing up with a mechanic for a father and spending my youth in a shop building hot rods and working on cars has definitely shaped my perspective and helped me to take these big projects in many small steps, each of which can be repaired/redone until correct. That said, it is still really scary making that first cut. I imagine I will need to steel myself up for that first cut on the frame rails. I've got nightmares about the cutoff wheel going through the last little bit of rail and the whole thing moving an inch: everything warped and out of alignment.

MV8's x-frame idea got me thinking that I could build a temporary X-brace across the cut area, tying the front and rear on each side together with a big X while still allowing easy access to cut the rails.

Here are a couple pictures from today's humble work:

This probably looks like nothing, but I used a cutoff wheel, hammer, and chisels to remove some riveted on brackets. I also stripped the brake lines and fuel line.

I also clamped my two rail pieces together and drilled the holes for the trailing arms. Next up is bending them to shape. I plan to clamp them, one at a time, between the two square tubes visible in the corner of the picture and go at it with a hammer until the correct angle is achieved.

Definitely take the time before hand to build supports in all planes. It is heart wrenching to make that first cut and see something settle or twist and know there's nothing you can do about it anymore.

I'd also firmly put some concrete blocks under both ends, even if it constricts your movements some. Then if you do get that wrenching drop/twist/crunch you've minimized the movement.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Also, I'd make the initial cut on the rail in the middle of the piece being cut out. Where the cut ends move to relative to each other gives a great indicator of the movement and leverage to bend or shim it back. Plus you won't need to be careful with that leverage piece as it will be cut out anyway. Since it will have already been unloaded from the first cut, the second cut won't change it further.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

If it isn't main stream, comments are few and far between. I get little to no comments on my stuff. I expect some would wonder why you'd take apart a perfectly good vette or what they are into but it isn't their build. Start messing up and saying crazy things and they will come out of the wood work to comment!

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yeah, I'm planning to build some more 2x4 scaffolding under the frame as well as tie the frame all together with some 1x1x16g I have.

I'm hoping that I can notch out the frame, get my replacement to fit in and partial weld it in place, then cut the rest of the old frame away. We'll see. I should be tackling that this weekend.

I appreciate you hanging around and offering advice. You're probably right; this is pretty much straight old fashioned hot-rodding, not a light locost. It should lose a good 600 pounds with the work I'm doing. Bring the curb down to 2600 or so!

Now a slight distraction: do you guys have any ideas on how to get seats with headrests and at the least a shoulder belt, but better a 4 pt harness, while still allowing access to the backseat and have it look good? I really want to bring the safety equipment up several decades, and I think a headrest and a 4pt harness to keep me off the steering wheel (and my passenger off the metal dash) would be a huge step up in safety. I've looked at bench seats with headrests and integrated shoulder belts from full sized trucks, but I want more lateral support for cornering.

In my experience, it is a good idea to match up seats from similar seating cars, i.e., short doors and upright seating. I found that seat back for low slung sleek cars are laid back more in the full forward position. I think the front buckets and console from a pt cruiser would be ideal. They aren’t that old and had a lot of maintenance issues so the junkyards are full of nice cars.

I’d make a few measurements from the seat belt attachment at the B pillar to the floor and seat to duplicate the mount into the B-pillar of the coupe. You might also cut the mount out of the cruiser to weld into the coupe and reuse the cruiser trim. These belts were designed for airbags so there should be a rip stitch in the belt designed to rip under enough load, which is not what you want if there is no bag. It is just a fold of belt material with a white flag in it that says essentially if you can see me, replace the belt! I’d carefully remove the stitching and flag and use it like a pre-bag belt.

Here is a link to a pair with a lot of good photos:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-PT-CRUISER ... 2115852091

You may be able to use the shifter too if going automatic or at least the cup holders and shifter console.

Other seat options are small two door suvs, small super cab pickups, fiat, mini, etc.

This may give you some ideas also:
http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/120 ... ess-coupe/

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Can't say I'm a fan of that custom. Too much shaving going on and I feel like the giant radius in the back seat and trunk are a bit of a cheat. Cool car that showcases a lot of skills though!

I'm not sure I like the PT seats that much. I was looking at seats like these as options:

http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/pts/5480741383.html

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums ... eats3a.jpg

But I don't know how I will ditch the plastic on them and make them match the car better. Guess I'll just need to make my own bespoke seats....

As I'm more of a traditionalist, I prefer non headrest seats in older cars. I have heard a lot of middle seats out of mini vans with the split back that give access to the rear seats are good. Or mid size extended cab pick up seats.
Cheers,
Stewart.

I agree, Stewart. I don't like the look of a modern headrest seat in an old car. I'm young, at 27, and probably can look forward to 60ish years of life ahead of me. I want to drive this car a lot, but I don't want to unnecessarily risk permanent debilitating injury or death doing it. I feel like I need to make a real serious effort at doing the easy safety improvements like good seat belts, headrests, collapsing steering components, dual master cylinder brakes, etc.

Alrighty, on to some updates. Sadly, the nightly noise curfew arrived before I got to the point I was hoping for.


All bent into shape! A little advice here: DITCH THE HAMMER. It's useless. I had a much easier time clamping square tube to both sides of the plate, on both sides of the bend line (4 tubes total) and then using the C clamps as leverage to bend the plate by hand. Worked much better than the hammer!



Happened to have this unusually large lumber (1.75x3.75) laying around from the previous owner of the house. It turns out 1.75" is the perfect separation for the trailing arms! Cut and drilled a few pieces to fit, and clamped it all up. I'm going to tack it all in place, then remove the wood for final welding.



Holes line up and the gap is a dead match for the vette bracket! All the measurements I can think to take off the vette body and the suspension suggest I've got the angle pretty spot on.