Parrottrj wrote:
Im going to start out with a 4l80E just for simplicity and costs sake, but then hopefully convert to a manual option. Have you tried to use paddles are do you still have a stick shift because a stick would be weird placement in a 1 seater.
I agree this being a 1 seater reverse would not be a problem as of right now its only at around 1100lbs wet with brakes, wheels, tires, engine, chassis. I know all of the small stuff adds up though so I'm aiming for 1500-1700. Is the manual so long compared to the auto that you have to move the engine/ the axles have to much of an angle in them when you swap over?
I was planning on my own suspension as well because I am the Suspension captain for next year at my university and will be designing it along with the FSAE car. I was going to use factory suspension like a miata until I realized I was going to have incredibly different corner weights and that the suspension wouldn't be ideal.
I would argue the manual is both cheaper and less complex, but this is largely based on what assumptions you are using. When I say cheaper, I mean the automatic requires a cooler, lots of fluid; it's a Corvette piece so you pay Corvette tax; and the automatic is going to fail in a relatively short time frame. The first thing to go is the 3-4 clutch band. If you want the automatic to live, you have to pull it apart and upgrade the weak points. An old school Muncie transmission can be had for pretty cheap. You will have to buy the Autogear case for another $300 or so. The manual combination is actually about 3" shorter than the automatic. A Muncie without a tail housing is pretty short.
I am using cables to shift mine; I never made it around to trying paddles. The reality is that I don't shift much on track. With cables, you can mount the shifter wherever you want.
Ken