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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: My Lexus V8 hotrod build
PostPosted: February 27, 2015, 5:43 pm 
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Joined: May 16, 2013, 2:49 pm
Posts: 57
Location: DFW Texas
Hey everybody! I've finally started my build and thought I should share it with you all. This is going to be a pretty unique one! I have been in the hot rods and rat rods for a while now and when The locost seven bug bit me I thought I had to choose between the two worlds. After a lot of soul-searching and planning I've come up with a locost 7 inspired build that will use a 1946 Ford pick up cab. to make things even crazier I'm using a Mazda RX8 subframe and a Lexus 1UZ vvti 4.0 liter V8.


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Last edited by WireAddict on March 7, 2016, 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: February 27, 2015, 6:58 pm 
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Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Where in DFW are you and what transmission will you be using?

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PostPosted: February 27, 2015, 7:22 pm 
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Location: DFW Texas
I'm right smack in the middle near Grand Prairie. I'm currently looking for a cheap W58 and will use the conversion kit offered by lexusv8.com ($900). The transmition is actually the last big part I have left to buy but is proving to be difficult to get for under $800. I'm doing body work in the interim.


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PostPosted: February 27, 2015, 7:25 pm 
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Joined: May 16, 2013, 2:49 pm
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Location: DFW Texas
It took me a long time to find the cab that I wanted so I actually built the frame without a body, now I'm slicing up the body to fit it to the frame. I would definitely not recommend doing in this order but time and budget dictated this decision. Here I'm setting up to do a 2 to 4 inch chop on the roof.


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PostPosted: February 27, 2015, 9:35 pm 
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Joined: July 2, 2010, 1:13 am
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Location: Phoenix arizona
If you want to carb on that motor , the intake manifold is available in new Zealand , aluminum single plane .The 1uz is quite commonly used in superstock dirt track cars there and there is tons of hot up info available .500 plus hp is common .look up www.trademe.co.nz as there are parts available .


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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 7:29 pm 
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Joined: May 16, 2013, 2:49 pm
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Location: DFW Texas
Heres a couple shots of the front end of my frame:


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File comment: Motor mount, not fully welded
Photo Mar 01, 3 48 33 PM.jpg
Photo Mar 01, 3 48 33 PM.jpg [ 1.22 MiB | Viewed 3618 times ]
File comment: Another shot of how my control arms are attached
Photo Mar 01, 3 49 15 PM.jpg
Photo Mar 01, 3 49 15 PM.jpg [ 1.24 MiB | Viewed 3618 times ]
File comment: Most of the tubing is tacked in here
Photo Mar 01, 3 49 40 PM.jpg
Photo Mar 01, 3 49 40 PM.jpg [ 1.28 MiB | Viewed 3618 times ]
File comment: The motor is in here just for sizing
Photo Jan 31, 4 40 47 PM.jpg
Photo Jan 31, 4 40 47 PM.jpg [ 1.89 MiB | Viewed 3618 times ]
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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 7:33 pm 
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Joined: May 16, 2013, 2:49 pm
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Location: DFW Texas
For a lot more content and detail go check out www.TheODstudio.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: March 5, 2015, 8:02 am 
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Nice construction. Will you be dipping the body?

Tractor is a beaut!

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PostPosted: April 7, 2015, 9:32 am 
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Joined: May 16, 2013, 2:49 pm
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Location: DFW Texas
The body will be stripped of rust, polished with a flappy disk on the grinder and clear coated.


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PostPosted: April 7, 2015, 9:34 am 
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Location: DFW Texas
Here's a shot from the weekend after finish welding for several hours on of all the tacked in tubes. There has to be a better way to weld into tight acute angles with a mig welder. Half of the time I can't tell if I'm getting good fusion or not...


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PostPosted: April 8, 2015, 12:23 am 
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
Looking good! I like the triangulation of the chassis members. Regarding the welding in confined spaces, I've found that a lot more preheat and increased shielding gas is beneficial. The further the weld puddle from the nozzle, the more gas flow is needed. Also wire burn back is more frequent if your amperage is set high with a slow wire speed.

And just a thought, you may want to consider connecting the inboard trailing and leading upper control arm pickup points, as the current orientation would cause a rather large bending moment at the junction connecting the retrofitted front subframe to the tube chassis. In other words, loads from brake torque would induce a force couple about the front upper 90 degree junction.

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PostPosted: April 12, 2015, 10:30 pm 
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Location: DFW Texas
Good eye on the front control arms! Here's a shot with a new tube in place. More to come on stiffening up the front end. It's funny how I've been welding on this chassis for a couple of months now and just today read your post and changed a few welder setting and got excellent results. I'm concerned about early welds on the project that look good but wire speed was low and I'm afraid molten steel coated into place but didn't penetrate. I guess I'll find out after a few good potholes!


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PostPosted: April 12, 2015, 10:31 pm 
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Location: DFW Texas
It's hard to beat a Saturday welding on your car!


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PostPosted: May 19, 2015, 8:12 am 
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Location: DFW Texas
I'm using the entire rear sub frame and differential from a Mazda RX8 and have just finished fabricating some simple brackets to bolt it to my space frame. The sub frame has 6 massive bolts that have a U shaped alignment pattern so figuring out how to get everything squared up was interesting.

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PostPosted: May 19, 2015, 8:13 am 
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Location: DFW Texas
Sub frame attached:

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