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 Post subject: nose
PostPosted: July 18, 2017, 12:36 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:37 am
Posts: 750
Location: Tennessee
I finally got up the nerve to join the two nose cones. My nose is about six inches wider than the original, so I had to add some filler.
I then sanded the underside on both halves to get a good tooth. On the outside I applied a piece of masking tape, to act as a gasket
of sorts. I then taped on a piece of roof flashing aluminum to act as a mold. Then I turned the piece up side down and used fiberglass
cloth and resin, extending outside the open space about six inches on each side. I will have to add some bondo to finish the outside.
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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 18, 2017, 1:08 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
Lookin' good so far! :D

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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 20, 2017, 10:29 pm 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
I'm looking forward to seeing this come together, as I'm going too have to do the same eventually. Thanks for sharing!

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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 11:48 am 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
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Location: Oregon, usually
Nice. What did you use to make/help the resin release from the aluminum?

PS--If the answer is, "What? You need to put something on the aluminum? I thought polyester didn't stick to aluminum," let us know how it goes. You may need to make a flashing roller upper, kinda like they key on a sardine can.

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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 12:21 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:37 am
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Location: Tennessee
I didn't know what to use. Someone suggested "Pam" kitchen spray, but i couldn't figure out how to apply it to just the aluminum, since I already had the aluminum secured, so I decided to use petroleum jelly. I just spread it on with
my finger. It worked fine.


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 22, 2017, 1:35 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2016, 9:15 pm
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Fiberglass doesn't stick together aluminum very good, but you can wax with car wax or if it's flat or small compound curve use wax paper.


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 2:46 pm 
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Location: Tennessee
[quote][/quote]Since the styling department didn't care for the winged look, the wing was removed and these tail lights are being considered. Also a possibility is a thin led strip. The polls are now open. Cast your votes.


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 4:29 pm 
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- definitely not the LED strip
- two lights each side as shown, or
- two lights a little more outboard than shown with one on the fender and in the position of the single light photo

My $0.05 worth

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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 4:43 pm 
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I want as large or as many tall light as you can make pleasing to the eye. I don't want an uninsured clod on a cell phone in my trunk!


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 5:26 pm 
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Three - dual filament Lucas L488 lamps on each side would look very period. You could use 2 red for running and brake lights and an amber one for turn signal. For a street car, I would strongly suggest a 3rd brake light. Some LED strips are clear and only light up red when brake is applied. This would make it look less obvious. Be careful selecting the LED strip. Many of the lesser priced ones do not put out much light and have a narrow viewing angle. These can also be had in single element with a clear lens for reverse lights if desired.

Alternative to the L488, A single Lucas L549 lamp on each side, as used on many mid 50's brit cars also look nice but have less visibility to drivers IMO. They require a combined brake/turn signal element.

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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 6:11 pm 
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BHRmotorsport wrote:
- definitely not the LED strip
- two lights each side as shown, or
- two lights a little more outboard than shown with one on the fender and in the position of the single light photo

My $0.05 worth
I agree that moving outboard will look better, but the fender has too much curvature to mount the light in the horizontal position. That's why I have them on the deck lid.


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 6:34 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
I did a very similar method to widen my nose cone. Perhaps I'm the only one that didn't know the first glass layers should be no wider than the opening. Need to insure the valley between the old piece and the new piece is filled. Then lay on some strips that overlaps. I was sure the resin would penetrate the cloth and fill that seam but it didn't.

I tried to bridge the opening with one piece of cloth and that left 1/8" gaps along both sides of the insert. Required a lot of filling and sanding. This was my first experience working with fiberglass.


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 24, 2017, 8:35 am 
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Location: Connersville, Indiana
Two LED's plus a nice brake light will look fine and make that sucker look like a circus wagon when you hit the brake.

Bill


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 24, 2017, 9:19 am 
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Um, guys? Proper practice is to grind a taper in the old glass from the inside before applying new glass. Use at least a ratio of 3:1, width of taper to thickness of composite. This way there is not 1/8" gap to fill. When done, there is just a slight area between the new glass/resin and the original gel coat that needs to be filled/ sanded. This gives a much stronger joint.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


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 Post subject: Re: nose
PostPosted: July 24, 2017, 1:35 pm 
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Chuck,

That is very sound advice. Unfortunately I didn't have that knowledge when I needed it. Would have saved a lot of work.

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