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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 11:43 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
The 'restomod' continued.

Removed the bottom refer plate from the passenger side of the frame.

Decided it's time to fab up a build table for the frame. Cut and glued some steel together. Centered frame on table and bolted it down. Still need to brace up the rear of the frame. Then I can start separating the frame and narrowing it.
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Attachment:
File comment: Frame needs to be straightened to the CAD tape
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Perry

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'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

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PostPosted: November 15, 2017, 1:13 am 
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By the way, restomod is a time honored word that has been around for just this kind of thing.

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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 2:45 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Bit of progress in the shop. I jigged up the table so that the frame will not move when I cut it and narrow the rear channel.
Attachment:
File comment: Framed jigged and trussed
IMG_2683.JPG
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Removed the top refer plates each side where the 2 channels join , measured points where I need to cut frame to bend it in order to narrow and straighten it. Went ahead and gotter done. Welded up the frame cuts, will have to refer plate the weld joints later. Rear frame is now straight and 33 1/2" wide at the rear axle location instead of the original 34 1/2". Put masking tape on frame for clarity.
Attachment:
File comment: Frame channel straightened and narrowed
IMG_2684.JPG
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Did a bunch of figuring' and head scratching' and mathematical equations, and pencil sharpening. The Toyota rear end will have to be narrowed 6 1/4" each side. With the 165/65R14 tires and rims with 4" backspace, that should give me 1/2" clearance between tire and frame and 1/2" clearance between tire and rear fender. The diff I can do myself, the axles will have to be sent out for shortening and re-splining.
Attachment:
File comment: Toyota diff needs to be narrowed 6 1/4" each side
IMG_2685.JPG
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Spent some of the capital project money and bought me another much needed piece of equipment. Blasted my reworked spindles, I like it, I like it a lot.
Attachment:
File comment: Capital budget purchase
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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 12:15 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
When the fluorescent tube dies, install a couple of electrical boxes with flood light fixtures inside. I have a couple 100W LED bulbs in mine, and it's SO bright.

You likely have a shield over the hole at the back, that's where your vacuum should go. I have my vacuum plugged into a 20L pail of water, and the hole at the back of the cabinet is piped into the water. This will keep most of the dust out of your vacuum. I added another shield over the hole on the left side to help keep dust from escaping.

I also put the whole cabinet on wheels so I can move it around (wait for casters or a furniture dolly to go on sale at PA).

linky with pics

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PostPosted: November 19, 2017, 6:40 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
...Seems to me like Corvettes use (or used to) a similar concept for their IRS. Early Cobras had transverse leaf springs in front, but not sure if they served as the upper or not. JDK


The Vettes started using the transverse sprung IRS in '63. It was just a spring. A lower transverse control arm and a fixed length articulated axle handled control arm duties. The early Cobras had the transverse springs front and rear, and they WERE the upper control arm! Legend has it that the A/C Ace that the Cobra was derived from used the Topolino suspension as the inspiration (if not the actual donor) for the suspension!

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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 12:00 am 
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Spent some time in the shop today. Stripped the diff down. Have to shorten it by 12 1/4".
Attachment:
File comment: Stripped diff 2
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File comment: Stripped diff 1
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Like this :cheers:
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File comment: Shortened diff 1
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File comment: Shortened diff 2
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File comment: Shortened diff 3
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Taking the axles in Wednesday for shortening and re splining.

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 1:10 am 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
Can you get them re-splined locally?

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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 2:25 am 
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SkinnyG wrote:
Can you get them re-splined locally?


SG - Yes, there is a guy in Edmonton that shortens axles for the hot rod guys, works outta his garage, with a lathe, indexing tool, milling machine.
Just have to part with a few 'Sir Robert Bordens' and I'm good to go.

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 10:19 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Early Cobras had transverse leaf springs in front, but not sure if they served as the upper or not.

JDK


All AC Ace derivatives - including the Shelby Cobra roadster and Cobra Daytona coupe - used transverse leaf springs as the upper control arms on both the front and rear suspension. It wasn't until the chassis was redesigned for the 427 Cobra that it changed to coil springs with separate upper and lower control arms

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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 11:23 am 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
I couldn't find anyone locally - I sent my V8 Firefly axles down to Moser in Indiana to have them shortened. Cost more in shipping than the machining did.

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PostPosted: November 23, 2017, 12:47 pm 
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Really imaginitive, nice, work, Perry. This isi going to be a very interesting build.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 8:54 am 
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Perry
How did you fixture the shorten axle to prevent mis-alignment while welding.
Dave W


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 7:00 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Funny - when the axle was in its original configuration, it looked...normal. Now that it's narrowed, the pumpkin looks massive!!

Sure got some nice work goin' on, Perry!

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PostPosted: November 25, 2017, 2:27 am 
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davew wrote:
Perry
How did you fixture the shorten axle to prevent mis-alignment while welding.
Dave W


I used home made pipe alignment clamps, squares, digital level, and measurement devices. Measure, align, square up and do it all over again. Took about 1/2 hr per side before tacking each tube. Then once tacked check it all over again. Then weld and check it all over again.

Fabbed and tacked the hairpin axle mounts (br@cketz).
Attachment:
IMG_2703.JPG
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Attachment:
IMG_2702.JPG
IMG_2702.JPG [ 107.23 KiB | Viewed 78 times ]


Fabbed and tacked up upper and lower coilover mounts. There will be refer plates welded on the frame to strengthen the upper coilover mounts.
Attachment:
IMG_2736.JPG
IMG_2736.JPG [ 126.58 KiB | Viewed 78 times ]

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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PostPosted: November 28, 2017, 10:36 pm 
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In the shop today for a bit. More work on the frame, slow going, I struggle to take pics and post this as it must be very boring to the forum members.
Removed the diff and welded up the hairpin axle perches.
Removed frame from table and turned it over for some welding. Fabbed up upper and lower refer plates.
Attachment:
File comment: Frame upside down. Upper and lower refer plates(1).
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Attachment:
File comment: Frame upside down. Upper and lower refer plates(2).
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Fabbed the front hairpin perches (br@cketz). Mocked up.
Attachment:
File comment: Frame upside down. Upper and lower refer plates with forward hairpin perch fabbed up
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Attachment:
File comment: rame upside down. Upper and lower refer plates with forward hairpin perches fabbed up
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IMG_2742.JPG [ 126.05 KiB | Viewed 30 times ]


Made pattern to box in frame for some added strength.
Attachment:
File comment: Construction paper pattern to box in frame for strength
IMG_2743.JPG
IMG_2743.JPG [ 102.46 KiB | Viewed 30 times ]

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Perry

2 down, 2 to go, no 3 to go

'If man built it, man can fix it'

"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14030


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